wheee!

Surprisingly, the lower pinion bearing came out without a fight. It was not pressed completely to the bottom so I was able to lift it out with a bolt head!

And got the steering rack apart. Now to clean the sucker!

Finally finished up the ignition unit. Looks nice and neat now!

East coast air.....

Some people would pay a lot for a clean shell to start with. Pay less for a more deteriorated shell and spend more later fixing it... It's up to you as to where you want to spend the money. The total cost of a restoration these days is not cheap, regardless of the starting shell price. If you are in for the long run, then plan on budgeting about $30,000 US or $45,000 Cdn for a proper restoration. In the end what you paid for the shell falls in there somewhere... I paid $100 for a shell. Was it worth more? Probably! But I had to replace a lot of metal and rebuild a lot of the car myself. I would have rather started with a solid shell and paid $6000 versus spend the same amount of money on parts and repairs and take an additional two years. In the end, I will be in for about $45,000. The shell cost doesn't really matter anymore. From the looks of this unit, it is worth about $6,000 to $8,000 depending on condition of all the parts and completeness of the parts/interior. That's just my opinion.

Looks like a ton of underbody coating on the mid to side sections. The side valances look like they have been siliconed onto the fenders. No easy way to pull that apart... have fun!

This one looks pretty clean actually. If it's all there and complete, it's not too bad. Looks solid... how much it's worth is up to you...!

That’s a good start. When the unit is out, soak the entire thing in CLR

What power window unit did you go with or was it a kit with the locks to provide the “roll up and lock” feature on the fob?

Pulls straight out... Might be corroded together.

Maybe update your PDF file@eurodat to include the instructions for swapping coils and removing the ballast wiring.

My module just came in yesterday. I will be finishing the install soon. I have to work this weekend...

The block will be black. That’s part of the issue.

The outer tie rods are already anodized red, the crossmember is already black... maybe a chrome powder coat with the black boots going into the red outers? The bushings are red too so a red rack is out.

Spent some time working on the steering rack tonight. Sandblasted the exterior and cut off the seized tie rod ends. Next up is disassembly and internal cleaning followed by powder coating and refurbishing. Red, chrome or black? Hmmmmm.....

... and voila!

Fixed! Sourced some 10.9 40mm bolts. This should hold...

No fuel, no conductivity = low gas. Zero ohms (short) when fuel present, open when empty. These fuel units are very pricey and hard to find. I restored mine because I couldn't afford/find new. Good luck!

That is not a capacitor, it is a low fuel sensor.... soak your sensor in CLR rust remover overnight, it will work fine again.

So Techno Toy Tuning express shipped out the custom spacers to fit their hubs on 280Z’s! Very cool. I will need to get longer bolts though. I’m 10mm short on grip here. Not good enough!

In the end I think it was Tapatalk that was having the problem. The posts look fine on my home computer. I use Tapatalk almost exclusively for the forum these days.

Hmmm Alberta and Texas are like the same place really! Cowboys and oil wells! Y’all are welcome here anytime!

This one worked! Thanks!

The text before you @ me is still missing...!

I have not heard anything good about this company. No one seems to be able to get anything from them. Or a hold of them.