wheee!

On the topic of multi-tasking, I started work on the seat covers and seat heaters today. I was pleasantly surprised to find the seat foam in the seats I picked up this winter are perfect!

I am painting it with chrome paint. The acid has no effect on the plastic and I have left it in for a day on the partially stripped one and probably another day for the still chromed one.

While working on other things, I have set aside my chromed bezels in a bath of 3:1 water/muriatic acid to dissolve the chrome. So far so good!

Part of the reason that I added relays today...

So while I wait for my harness loom tape to arrive, I decided to wire in some more important mods. Thanks to the experts that came before me for the great DIY files here on the forum! New fused relay cluster to ensure clean power to the essentials. Left to right, low beam, high beam, starter and horn.

Makes sense to me...

View Advert 75/76 centre console sub harness Looking for a sub harness to the centre console on a 75/76 280Z. My car had a 77/78 sub harness attached and I didn’t know till I tried connecting the console... and my connectors are all different. Anyone have a spare? Edit: zKars has one of course. Thanks for looking! Advertiser wheee! Date 05/15/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1976 Model 280Z

He must be from the east coast branch ...

I wanted to eliminate the cable.

Amazing trunk space though...

Also, if anyone is wondering what all those white wires are for in the fusible links.... Four of them go to the starter motor positive for a straight feed from the battery cable. I replaced all of that with a new fuse block. I need to wrap the wires and replace the cover etc, but it’s a nice mod. Voltage display for the first 30 seconds of ignition/accessory. LEDs to show fuse integrity.

Hey @zKars, your old bumper is still pretty shiny! Thanks to @EuroDat for the awesome bracket kit. Perfect fit and I am very pleased.

And the finished door jamb grommet!

And finally the door tag comes home! One of the first parts that came off, #271295 is back!

A quick trip to the JY and I have my door grommet solution. I believe it was an older Cavalier that gave up the rear door boots. I traced the opening size onto tape on the paint and then ground out the grommet size from that. A little permatex in behind and we are good to go!

Well worth the effort...

For some reason I have never been partial to the vented hood look...

I did drill them. Just 1/4” guide holes until I can find the right grommets. I will mask and tape the hole to resize it. It’s just door locks and power window wires. I am ordering the kick panel speaker covers so the speakers stay out of the doors.

So every now and then we have a wart show... My attempt to paint the car with the doors on and the jambs already painted ended up with unacceptable overspray, even with the masking and joint filler. Today I masked off the car and removed the doors to paint the jambs all over again. Yay me....

I think I have a plan for the door wires now. The lower area beneath the lower hing on the body side facing out. Then a hole under the door hinge on the door. That way there is no compression of the wires when the door closes.

I’m still looking for a nice easy way to route the wires into the doors... any suggestions out there?

Test fit of the console with the seat heater switch and the power window switches installed.

Now available at a colony near you!

Says the man who fabricates all the really cool parts! I just installed the custom inspection light lens on my restored Engine bay light. Thanks for that Chas!

They are different for the 280 versus the 240.... unless you have both kinds!