wheee!

Decision made! New-Datsun-parts.com were less than helpful or friendly when I made inquiries... No price breaks for local Cdn sales, happy to skim an extra 30% on each sale due to exchange rate. No local pickup, mandatory shipping fees in US dollars etc. oh well.

I dunno.... the US greenback is kicking butt up here! You could fly up for the price of a nice dinnner out and I will put you up in Grand Style in my humble abode... all you have to do is beat the crap outa my floor pans!

I checked and the local dealer can get them. @240dkw Do you remember if they came complete with the fuzzy strips and the door lock grommets from the dealer? With the exchange rate, it's about $100 cheaper to buy local... [emoji15]

My rebuilt set

Come on over....

That was part of the reason I decided to switch to the 11mm oring style injectors with a pallnet rail..., no more need for the retaining screws or clamps.

So much good info from all of you. Thanks!

Shaping the tunnel would be easier at this point. I don't think it would be hard to extend the seat rails.

So i wonder, should I bother replicating it or remove it and merely extend the seat brackets? Basically extend the sheet metal up the tunnel. I assume it is there to accommodate a resonation pipe/cat in the exhaust.

I see now he is located in my city of Edmonton, Alberta! too funny...

Hmmm. I will check. Thanks!

Looks like I'll be ordering some!

Oooooo... Nice!

I have a set of the lower corner valances to install as well.... I am hoping they cover far enough over to blank off the bumper mount holes.

Found this pic in my files of the floor pan and tunnel area differences. The 280 has a noticeably smaller seat mount set on the driver side to accommodate the bulge in the trans tunnel. Charlie Osborne was unaware of it and is requesting a paper template to correct the metal forms for his floor pans.

Yeesh. Maybe I'll stick to the EZ strip wheel

I am thinking the same. I was originally thinking of painting the bottom of the car on the rotisserie, then installing suspension etc before dropping it back on the ground to do the remainder of the body work etc. Looking at it now, it makes more sense to paint the entire interior and engine bay while on the rotisserie then dropping it down. Sweaty's pics look very encouraging!

Hmmm. Didn't try. I had been told the bondo would take forever to soften. The EZ strip wheels do a good job too. I have more to strip so I will try it. Quarters and rockers, doors and fender, hood and hatch....

Very nice! Did you stand in the engine bay to get all the nooks and crannies or just lean in? So many hidden areas I am concerned on getting good coverage when I do mine.

I have the aircraft stripper. The problem is the layers of bondo between the paint and primer.

Well I admit it was three nights work. EZ strip pads in lights passes to avoid heat buildup.

I had to laugh... I didn't realize the 280 even had intermittent wipers!

Picked up a spare headlight switch for $40 at a local import shop. Had a tour of the facility with the car club. Some nice cars in there!

Good tips Charles!

Got the six layers of paint, primer and bondo off the roof last week. What a huge mess and there was no reason for all the layers. The roof was in great shape under it all.