wheee!

Nice

Cost? No product listed on their site....

I pulled the EV-1 quik clips off a newer Audi. The clips all looked brand new and had no corrosion. Lots of wire to work with so my splices will all look factory when I'm done. The wrecking yard didn't charge me for the harness, only the injectors! $6.99 each...

Really happy with how the injectors turned out. $50 at the wrecking yard, $30 for the rebuild kit and I have a nice set of low impedance 11mm o-ring injectors with stock output for my car! All I need now is the pallnet rail to set it all up and build the custom harness. All EV-1 connectors too, courtesy of the wrecking yard... I will separate the FI lines from the engine harness and add a nice 12 pin waterproof quick disconnect clip against the firewall to help keep things neat!

//Newbie question...Why? Wheel availability? And what BCD will you choose?// Bcd will be stock Nissan 114.3mm (4.5")

Too busy to get pics of the injector testing. Sorry! I did clean them with a denatured alcohol and then tested them on a pressure rig. The results may be skewed as the pressure dropped with each injector test. I am not convinced there was any difference in volume/time per injector and they looked good. I will do another test when the car is assembled and the injectors can be tested ensemble with the harness and fuel pump/regulator.

Installing big brake kit front and rear so I will need 15-16" wheels and I would also like more choice in wheel styles/offsets. Custom suspension from TTT will allow some camber and track adjustments. My car will not be period correct anyway....

Good point.

I have a digital power supply with current limiter and incremental voltage control from 0-60 volts. Nice piece of kit. I will clean the injectors with brake clean first then use a mild solvent (isopropyl) to use as a fuel replacement. Each injector will be timed and measured individually for output. Possibly together too. I can parallel them and control the current etc.

I will build a flow bench test rig at work. Results will be posted as soon as I have time to test them.

3.0 ohms +/- .1 ohms across each.

Cleaned up the injectors tonight!

Nice!

No shortage of options! I think I will just drill the stock parts I have!

UNLESS, you mill out the tiny difference between the bearings then you can use your 280zx stubs with 240 hubs, inside and outside bearings are the same larger OD with the smaller 280ZX ID, Cool! Won't help me and the 280 hubs I have though... I'll hang onto these in case someone else can use them.

I can vouch for Taka! Awesome guy, order with confidence...

Basically, the 280ZX stub axle has a different OD (outside diameter) where the inner and outer wheel bearings are seated, so it uses different wheel bearing than the S30. The OD of the 280ZX rear wheel bearings will not fit the S30 rear strut. In other words, the 280ZX stub axles will not fit.

They must be from a 280ZX... My friend that supplied me them had parts from both. Here's a question though: Can I use them IF I use the supplied companion flanges as well? Will they fit the strut housings? Just order the bearing kit for the 280ZX? Too many questions... Maybe I will just use my stock stub axles!

Facepalm.... Rookie mistake! My spare stub axles are 25 spline! I need 27 for the 280....

The chromoly stubs are about $1000 US a set ($1300+ Cdn)!! That pattern is not the exact same as I have seen elsewhere. I have seen one where no extra material Is added but the bolt holes are touching on one hole.

Good info. The mismatched vin tags will be an issue for purists but not a registration issue in Canada. Firstly, thanks to GeoJoe1 for coming to this forum for feedback and potential buyers. Even with all the controversy on the VIN, this is a car worthy of restoration. The value will take a hit for not being a true survivor with original metal etc, but when complete will still command a premium. @GeoJoe1, hopefully you are looking at a realistic value on the shell and parts. Maybe post an idea of where you are hoping to start negotiations and that should warrant you more serious interest. I am hoping this goes to a good home where it will be properly restored. Best of luck to both buyer and seller!!

For what it's worth, the seam sealer did do as designed and sealed the seams, it was where water had seeped in to the edges of the seam sealer and been trapped between the floor and seam sealer. These top sections of sealer peeled away easily and exposed the surface rot.

Procrastinating on the floor pans a little, waiting for some advice from Charlie. Spent some time removing what looked like perfectly good seam sealer last night. Scraped away a large amount from around the trans tunnel and floor pans in the interior. OMG!! The hidden rust! Places that looked pristine were hiding more cancer under the seam sealer! If anyone is in doubt, REMOVE the seam sealer! Remove the rust, prep the metal and seal it again! Yeesh.

I was thinking I might. Same reason you mention and it would be before any resurfacing or milling. As for how, it will be tricky to keep it balanced before and after milling.

Is this all original sheet metal too or have there been panel repairs?