wheee!
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Everything posted by wheee!
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Whoa! Looks like East Side road beside Skaha! Love driving the south Okanagan! -
I have a Craftsman 46" yard tractor with a Kohler 26hp motor. Picked up a blade this Fall and it is awesome! Haven't had to use the snowblower in the background at all this year.
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Any more feedback on the coilovers? Do you still think you needed more camber adjustment than the standard 3 bolt tops? I want to use the three bolt top cross brace too so I am thinking of sticking with the three bolt. Add to that the TTT front and rear adjustable control arms and traction kit with roll centre adjusters and I think I will be fine. Thoughts?
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I would guesstimate my car at about 600lbs right now. I can lift either end but the front is much easier. From the centre forward I would say about 200lbs and the rear comes in around 400lbs.
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And he very generously gave me the rotisserie to use. I would be happy to pass it on if someone were close.
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Triple post.. Weird
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Actually my friend owns a large HVAC company...
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.... Mines top heavy...
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Ugh. Now I have to go back and re-read your old thread...
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I would check the AFM first....
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A friend of mine built one out of square channel and angle iron. It works good and mounts to the factory bumper shocks on the 280... A little high for centre of gravity but manageable.
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My kingdom for a 'cuda!.... drool....
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If you have a good multimeter, you can measure the resistance of the coil too. Depending on the length of wire etc, it should be approximately between 1.8 and 11 ohms. YMMV
Canyou test the relay with it open? Apply voltage between + pin 1 and - pin 5, then ground pin 4 to pin 5 and see if the relay clicks over? If not, the coil is open and it may be as simple as a disconnected (thin) wire form the coil to the jumper wire on the coil.... ...or it could be a broken wire in the coil that is unrepairable... also check the contacts on the relay if it is clicking over but not passing current. Could just be dirty contacts too...
Interesting. I am assuming you are getting an "open" condition ( no continuity) in both powered and unpowered states... Can you post a picture of the opened relay?
Have you opened it up to see if it is repairable (corrosion, loose component etc)?
My door cards are toast so the measurements won't help much there. I'm sure we have some more knowledgable members out there! I know the 77 door cards don't fit the 76 doors etc. If it's just the position of the holes and mounting straps, then I would leave them as blanks for the user to cut out.... Use their old cards as templates.
Wish I had more to post. Lately I have been getting a couple nights a week in the garage with the media blaster. Progress is slow but steady. Right now the engine compartment is almost done. Still have a lot of nooks and crannies to get to and I will have to flip the car a few more times to get them all. After the engine bay, I am going to do the nose section of the car, then move to the door frames and windshield ledge and A pillars. The inner cowl looks challenging but it will be done too. I will NOT be blasting any flat sheet metal. No desire to warp any panels. After that, I have the interior and hatch to do. That will be a long job I think. I will probably spend almost as much time vacuuming and blowing out all the media after I'm done too!
Don'know if it's just me but I cannot get any of your web pages to load... Wondering if you offer a version of the door panels in FRP (fibreglass) instead? CF is not the theme I am planning on going, but I do like the look of the rigid door card.... even if I was to cover it in leather or cloth, it would be a great replacement for the broken door card...
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