wheee!

As the booking agent for Kent’s shop, we will be organizing a three day ZCon Calgary event this summer for shop demos, select huge horsepower burnouts and track events in any of his Porsche, Nissan, or NSX whips, followed by an Alberta BBQ for the record books... Interested parties PM me with your PayPal info and I will send an invoice for an absurd amount of money to pull this off.... [emoji2957]

There is a certain ‘need for speed’ on the assembly line.

He was 5....

If only I knew someone with massive fabbing skills... I’ll be down end of March, have it ready!

The catch can comes with a breather but I will be sending the cleaned gases back to the intake like factory. The breather is not needed if you are recirculating. I will be using a breather on the valve cover. I didn’t want to at first, but I think it has been proven to work with no ill effect. It needs to draw air and vent air as needed. If I route it in with the crankcase vent there is the danger it would “draw” from that same line and contaminate the valve cover. The recirc’d crankcase line will have vacuum from the intake to draw out the vapours from the block.

Bolted in the oil catch can. Perfect position to where the crankcase vents. Also mocked up the COP support. This will work just right I think. The COPs will be bolted to the aluminum plate and the six of them will anchor each other. There should be minimal stress on the top three valve cover tabs

Like a boss...!

Why you post in for sale section??

That is correct. Hotter spark, more reliable spark, less complicated circuit. The board I removed was full of resistors and old discrete components. The heat sink plate is shown to the right. The holes locate the GM part and then bolt to the case. Heat sink paste in between.

Inspirational work once again...

Selling my freshly modified 1976 electronic ignition box that has been discreetly modified with a modern GM HEI ignition system. Since I am going Haltech and Coil on Plug, this system is no longer needed. I built this from plans available in this forum using a GM style HEI ignition. Everything is tucked inside the case and looks stock for the purists! Asking $100 plus shipping.

I bought a GM style IAC first but didn’t realize it required a stepper motor which is not supported by the Elite 750

Some of the BMW units are two wire. The 3 wires have two coils to pull up or down for better reference signal. Or so I understand....

I looked at the Blake parts and decided I didn’t want to go with separate igniters and wasted spark etc. I didn’t want to see plug wires at all!

No, they are logic level coils. No problems with driving the signal from the Haltech. They are wired hot from the ignition source and then triggered with a ground pulse. Multiple levels of control in dwell time’s etc. I’m very excited to learn all of the features in the Haltech. One example is the control of the A/C switch through Haltech. The engine load will cut off the A/C under WOT and increase idle speed upon A/C coming on etc. Very cool. I have an Idle Air Control valve from a VW Golf too. That is totally controlled through Haltech as well.

Nice work Kent!

Me too! I just wanted to share it with the forum...!

Well, the coils will bolt to the Aluminum plate, which should add some stability. The COP boots fit very tight and are hard to pull off, so I think they will be ok. The three top mount valve cover bolts will help stabilize the plate and I could also tie in to the Heater hose bolt underneath for added strength. The decorative plate is just that, a way to hide the signal wires etc.

Kinda like this:

I'm not too concerned about reducing the height. When the support is in place, it will look more like the COPs belong there. As it is, the support will come off of the valve cover bolts flat, then bend down to accommodate the mounting angle.

Not really a need within Haltech. @Chickenman has been helping me learn the secrets of Haltech and their very cool ESP program. The COP's I chose are based on on coil strength and form/fit/function. I wanted something that would deliver a hot spark quickly and reliably. I also wanted a small footprint at the top of the COP as I knew it would be sticking up fairly high. I also wanted it to have a bolt hole to secure it. AND it needed to be affordable. I bought 6 of these for under $100 Cdn. The finished look will make the COP's look less out of place as I will have an aluminum support plate that will create a standoff and mounting location for them.

Double post

@Mike perhaps this could be a sticky... Use this program, courtesy of rimsntires.com, to load your stock wheel size and then choose whatever wheel and tire you want. Then you can compare how it will fit on your build! Wheel and Tire Comparator

I often drive the same route as the 69 Datsun crew through the Canadian Rockies! You can have snow any month of the year so you have to be prepared! (and my 370Z is de-badged) and yes, I will be taking the classic Z through there too!

Nope. These are the strength and size I need for the Haltech. I will build a support plate for them that sits off of the valve cover. They are UF400 Acura COP’s.