wheee!

Wow! nice find. I do not have that issue on the 76 model as the tanks are different.

Cleco’s are a great way to get things lined up before cutting thru for the butt weld. The zip disc leaves a nice 1/16” gap to weld into. On the passenger side I only used 3/4 of the floor pan and kept the tunnel curve section as it was good.

The pan incorporates an amount of extra material around the edges for you to blend in the panel. You will need to find the best overall fit for the pan, then fabricate whatever you need to make it work. I made corners and sections as needed.

The panels are a rough fit. Some massaging is required. At least you have a 240 as the 280 pans are way out of fit.

I just pee on a handkerchief.... worked for the soldiers in WW1!

My vote is you replace the moustache bar with a 240Z R180 moustache bar and install it the right direction. It looks like you have a 280Z R200 bar in there now in the wrong direction for an R180.

Well this is a nice surprise! A nearly new TWM throttle body! Thanks @conedodger! This will add a few hp to the stroker along with the fuel injection upgrades!

Mine didn’t come off with thinner or isopropyl. Must be a 2K primer.

Grab a new moustache bar Jeff. I don’t like the drilling and oblong’ing you did on the current one. Too much play in there now.

I believe this will explain your relay setup for the starter best: http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html

That looks sooooooo familiar! That is single stage primer I believe. It’s under everything.

Nope. That’s a 2+2

Heading into my Christmas leave block with the military, so time to get serious! I will be working on the remaining original panels and doors, getting them down to bare steel and ready for repairs. After that I have some work to do on the front clip, prepping the old bumper shock mounts (where the rotisserie was mounted) for primer and installing the gas shock mod for the hood! Looking forward to having the front end done and all the panels ready for primer for the new year. Then let the blocking and bodywork begin!

I hear some people pull the half-shaft to fill the diff... seems like a bit more work, but if the plug is seized....

I hadn't thought of undoing them from underneath! I assumed the mud guard on my 280 would be an issue but not so much on the 240's. Don't get me wrong, I am in love with the look but will probably stay stock location on my build as my 280 restomod doesn't flow with the Fairlady feeling that much. I love to see them on the early cars though!

- Fitting a car cover - working on the engine and leaning over the fenders - people "playing" with them in parking lots - cost almost $600 US ($900 cdn) but yes....very cool!

That 70’s Show!

Will these fit later generation seats? Cost?

Have you considered the Arizona Z Car setup? $795 and he has a new setup for using the Wilwood rear park brake too for this kit. I have a set of these and they are awesome looking units. I am waiting for the park brake setup to arrive to install them. The fronts are already on my car.

Just buy Jim’s hood...

More than happy to help you spend your money...!

This is the one you want! https://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/calgary/jdm-nissan-rb25-engine-series-2-rb25det-turbo-longblock-skyline/1403280211?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social

One of those for sale in Airdrie... look on kijiji for a 280ZX Edit: my bad. It’s an rb20det https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/calgary/1981-datsun-280zx/1402694240?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=ios_social

Nice work

Well, at least eight things in that photo are in my garage now... more that you can’t see!