wheee!

That is a super good price for new spindles et al. If they’re in good shape it’s a win win.

Nice work on the rear bumper Jeff! Did you butt weld the ends to the main bar or did you lap weld them?

oops, now I remember! I would just buy some appropriately sized tubing and weld them on to the right size. The tubing up from the hubs is just steel pipe basically. A clean cut and a solid weld is all you need. I remember seeing some sprinkler system pipe that was about the right size of the correct schedule of steel too. Heck, you could probably just use the leftover tubing from the struts you cut!

I found the degreaser would start to remove the zinc primer and I was concerned the top coat would not have a good base to adhere to in those spots. The 2K epoxy is super well bonded to the sheet metal.

Because it’s not my race car... This is a classic sports car for fun cruising and road trips WITH MY WIFE. .... so unless I plan on enduring a bone rattling torture chamber by myself for 13 hour drives, my car will be more comfortable than light.

Wow! Or should I say, mon Dieu!

So I have realized that the bigger the sand blasting cabinet, the better. Mine is quite large but a 4-5’ cabinet would definitely be a much better asset. It’s hard to turn the larger objects to sand blast accurately and the light is less evenly spread in a tight cabinet. Lessons learned!

Why don’t you cut the ones that came with your car? I used my stock parts. I don’t plan on going back.

nice!

The clutch master dumped its guts all over the pedal box and inside of the drivers side floor. The corrosion was pretty bad all over where it spilled. I will blast it all clean and start fresh.

Next up, this rusty mess...

More small progress. Sand blasted the rusty gas pedal assembly and gave it a shiny new powder coat and cleaned up pedal skin. Looks good! The devil is in the details. Small stuff like this takes time...

Finished the prop shaft with a new u joint and some loctite for good measure.

Glad to hear it’s in. Mine is still not assembled complete.

Like I said before, it’s almost $150 here in Canada.

You have to supply all the cams, valves etc...

One of our local club members has ordered one for his race car... I am really looking forward to seeing it when it is done.

http://www.datsunworks.com/Blog/2014/09/24/first-casting/ This blog just blew my mind...!

Does that mean you remove the zinc primer and respray the 2k epoxy? Or do you just paint over the zinc?

Nicely done. The polyvance dash pad filler is almost $150 in Canada...

Really good progress Jeff! What type of rattle can primer are you spraying over the weld repairs on the rear quarters? Sandable, zinc phosphate, self etching?

Make sure you loosen the little dampening U bolt and rubber snubber too. That will allow you to rotate and then retighten against the crossmember.

Rotate the steering rack.

Mine are CX Racing coil overs and the picture of them are in the thread a few posts back. I think mine were manufactured to stock heights so I could flush mount and weld them at the collars for the most support.