jmhtx

Thanks!

I've got a 1971 240Z and am upgrading to Speedhut gauges. One of the options that is available (by special request) is additional LED lights on the tach for things like a Brake Indicator. As my car is not together right now and I can't seem to find it in here or in manuals etc, I'd like some experienced help on how the light is triggered (by either the parking brake or fluid cylinder). Is the current brake indicator lighted with a 12v+ or a Ground? Thanks in advance.

The internal voltage regulator (I had previously upgraded to an interanlly regulated 280ZX alternator) was bad and I replaced the entire alternator. Problem with bouncing amp gauge solved.

I've got a 1971 240z that I have upgraded the alternator to the 60 Amp kit with Diode. It is an internally regulated alternator. I've also done the parking and headlight harness relay upgrade and upgraded the fuse box to the blade type. Overall it works great. All of these upgrades and a new battery were done last March. Occasionally, my amp gauge will bounce between + and - when I initially start the car and this may last for a few minutes or more, it will then settle down and only move when I put on the turn signals or switch on the headlights. It happens intermittently. This morning on my drive to work it bounced for about 15 minutes. Later in the day when I drove to lunch it was rock solid from start up. Any thoughts on where to begin my investigation on the source of the problem?

SOLD

For Sale New in Box BC Coilovers for 1969 to 1974 S30. Removed from box, but not installed etc. 3 stud camber plate. Extended camber plate studs. Normal lowering (not extreme low). http://jpngarage.com...-69-74-240Z.htm SOLD

I thought it might be ground based on the diagram, but with lack a clear instructions left me with a bit a doubt. Could you snap a pic of how you ran it in your set up?

For those of you with a 123ignition Tune model, can you clarify what you did with blue wire? I understand the red and black and that they yellow is for a switch to change between advance tunes while driving. The instructions are not clear on what the purpose of the blue wire is and the only reference i found was in the diagram at the end of the manual.

Thanks! That is how I thought it might work. Very clean installation.

Can you share some pics of your throttle linkage with the Harada intake? Thanks.

From that diagram it would appear that way. I didn't see it from from the angle and dirt in the area. When I get a chance to get back under the car this weekend, if there isn't one, I'll post back, but otherwise assume I was ignorant of the different design in the 74+ versus the 70-73 that I have spent more time looking at and researching.

I didn't realize that there were two different flanges that bolted to the differential output shaft for the R180. I had only encountered the 70-73 flange that used 4 bolts to bolt to the output shaft as shown in Zcarnut part diagram. The one that the PO installed in my 1971 is the 74+ that the flange bolts directly to the diff. Thanks for the clarification, I didn't know there was a change beginning in 74.

Would the Techno Toy Tuning Mustache Bar work with the finned cover (assume it would as it is very similar to the ArizonaZ Car one.?

Open diff.

I might have missed it, but did you install the finned diff cover? There is a pic of it on the bench, but your pic of it on the car it looks like the standard cover. If you didn't install it, why not?

I've got a 1971 240Z that I am the third owner. The PO swapped out the transmission for a 5 speed and at the same time swapped the rear diff. The rear diff is marked as a 3.36 which I understand was the standard ratio on a 1971 manual (so I am confused why he changed it). I have the original rear diff and axles, but looking at what is currently installed has me confused. Take a look at the pic, it seem that the output shaft stub is welded (not bolted) to the one of the end flange yoke. Am I missing something or is this unusual (at best)? Any recommendations on how proceed? I've been thinking about a Subaru WRX STI R180 rear diff with a 3.9 or 3.54 (with the side axles from Wolf Creek) and refurbishing the original axles (or even doing a CV conversion).

Just purchased one today. I'll post once I get it in and dialed in.

Any long term experiences with the 123ignition system? Considering an upgrade to my stock distributor for my '71 L24 in preparation for an Datsun Spirit L28 engine.

Well done.

This is on the list of fixes for this spring for my '71 240z. Is there a benefit to putting a skim coat of dash repair over a much larger section of the dash (or the whole dash) to ensure uniformity the dash? I assume that it will require a bit more work, but would it improve the durability of the finished product? I plan on refurbishing my dash and console (and fuse cover, glove box, etc) at the same time and respraying them with the same texture for consistency.

After rebuilding the switch and testing it, I knew i had fixed it. When I installed it in my 71 240z, the turn signals still failed to work. I tested the switch on the column, and it was still showing it worked. I replaced the flasher relay, and success! $7 flasher the source of several days of headaches. I should have tested that sooner.

Okay, did some testing and some light manipulating of the contacts and now I have conductivity on two output wires in each of the two turn signal positions. I'm a bit confused by some of the details in link 2. Perhaps since I have 71 with a build date it is different, but I can only see how two of the output would connect when the turn signal is in either the right or left position. 6 wires go into the switch Green, Green/Yellow, Green/Red, Green/Black, White/Red and White/Black. On my switch the green/black and red/white go to the left turn contacts and show conductivity with the green wire in that position. The green/red and white/black go to the right turn contacts and show conductivity with the green wire in the position. I don't understand how the Green/Black and the Green/Red should show conductivity in both the right and left turn signal positions with the way the rocker operates. Can anyone clarify this switch? Thanks in advance.

I'm having issues with my turn signals on my 1971 240Z that I just picked up a week ago. They worked the first time I drove it and then stopped. They have worked twice since they first stopping, so I assumed it as a contact issue. I've disassembled the Turn Signal switch and cleaned the contacts twice today, no luck. To save myself 3 more attempts, any suggestions on what to differently? Bend the contacts? Flasher needs to be replaced? Any way to test? Hazards work, all other lights work as they should, just no turn signals. New to 240z, so I'm learning and have read quite a bit on this and other sites, but looking for some guidance from those that have gone before.