loudoun

Zed Head, sorry for the lack of a description. It was a 12 hour day, and I had just gotten home. Prior the drums were so tight (after adjusting fine, and just a 1/2 block drive) that I actually broke the pads removing the drums. I get an awful grinding noise as soon as the car starts to roll. I have it on a lift now, but work is so busy, that I will not be able to get to it till this weekend.

I did not hear the same.

I saw that in the FSM, but mine did not self adjust.

I rebuilt the half shafts and all new bearings

cgsheen1, excellent question. I pulled the suspension off of a 2/71 car, cleaned it up, powdercoated, and swapped it on the 11/70 car. New bushings, and in most cases, bolts went in. Not that this matters for the rear, but a new steering rack and ball joints up front, and rebuilt half shafts with U-joints in the rear. For the rear, the original brake cylinders and e-brake cable stayed. I did replace the rear drums with the available cast iron drums and put new pads on. The first set of shoes actually adhered to the rear drums after a bit, and the rear edge broke off as I extracted the drum. I have new shoes on now, but still the same grinding. I have it on a four post lift now and do not see any grinding marks on the half shafts.

I have a 11/70 car that I redid all the bushings, power coated the suspension, added Eibach lowering springs, and Koni yellow shocks. Now the rear wheels sound like absolute grinding hell when I try to move the car, and the E-brake no longer holds (I tried to adjust it). I don't know, but suspect the original style cylinders might not be working properly. Is changing to the 73 and up style a good 'upgrade' or should I try something else first? Thanks!

I have a 12/70 car that is having a serious rear brake issue. Here is the background. I have an early 2/71 parts car (still lots of Series 1 pieces) that I removed the suspension from, had sandblasted and then powder coated. As I removed suspension pieces from the12/70, I replaced with the refreshed pieces and torques to spec. At the same time, I rebuilt the halfshafts, replaced and greased the u-joints, replaced and greased all bushings, replaced shocks and springs (Koni yellows and Eibach springs), replaced all bearings, and packed the hubs with fresh grease. The last piece of the puzzle are the rear brakes. I replaced the pads, added rubber new brake lines, bled the system. and put the original aluminum drums back on. I did not replace the cylinders as the old ones looks OK and are prohibitive to replace unless I swap lines and go over to the 73 ones. I also did not replace either the master cylinder or rebuild the booster. I ran the car for a block and heard the most god-awful grinding noise. I bought it back home and parked it. The drums had a hard time coming off (each time actually). The E-brake also will not hold. Today I replaced the drums with new steel ones, and worked the e-brake to self adjust, I seemed to work for a bit (always more than 4 clicks) but then did not. I ran the car and the noise was just as awful. Even the neighbors noticed it! I ran it less than a block and brought it home. It sounded like metal on metal grinding. I only get the noise the when the wheel has weight on it and is going forward. In reverse, or when the wheel is spun while jacked up, there are no issues. Any advice for what to do next?

I will check. I have wanted to get after it this weekend, but it is just too hot outside!

All, I have replaced my stock 240Z (12/70) springs with Eibach springs and Koni yellow shocks from MSA. I powder coated all suspension components, replaced all bushings, the steering racks, and am running 15 inch tires. The front tires (exact same wheel/tire combo) never rubbed prior to the install. However, they do now in a hard turn. I have not had the steering aligned. Any suggestions on what to do? Thanks!

I checked, but it seems like Rockauto no longer offers rubber bushings.

Thanks to all for the comments. That is a good bit to think about. I already have the Prothane in hand and this will just be an occasional commuter/weekend car. Where do you all suggest for the rubber bushings? Any good links that you all would recommend for how to do the subframe mod? Thanks guys!

I am replacing the bushings/shocks/springs on my 12/70 car with Prothane, Eibachs and Koni yellows. Since I had a 2/71 parts car, I thought it might be easier to just prep that suspension and replace that of the 12/70 with refurbished parts (plug and play!). As I go, I will replace the ball joints and steering rack. I plan on sandblasting the old suspension and either powdercoating, painting, or using KBS rust sealer. For those that have done it, what method did you use and were you happy with the results? Any tips for someone who has not done this before?

I had the garage door channels extended so that the garage doors rolled back closer to the ceiling than standard.

I have two Bendpak 4 posts, turning my 2 car garage into a 4 car garage. I only have 10 foot ceilings, so I cannot put one of my International Scouts in the garage and have a car on the lift. It works fine with 240Zs up and Miatas below.

It is time to delve into learning to weld and replace floor pans/frame rails on some of my 240Zs. I have a rotisserie that I picked up locally as part of a trade, and now is the time to look for a welder. I am looking at the Millermatic 211 as a possibility, and a one-year old one is for sale locally. I wanted to ask you guys with welding experience (especially if you have a Miller 211): is this a good machine to learn to weld on and can you 'grow' with it as you learn, or will you be looking for another machine down the road. I have a spare parts body to practice on before I touch a project car. Thanks!