loudoun

I have a 70 build 240Z and recently the drivers window refuses to roll up. It had this problem previously and I got it to work, but the same problem is back. However, before I tear the door apart, I wanted to ask the forum if they had experienced this before and how they solved it. Here are the symptoms: The window will roll up several inches, but them gets jammed and refuses to budge. It rolls back no problem. It also seems to interfere with the door release handle. Any ideas before I go the route of taking it all apart again? Thanks!

Thanks everyone for their help so far. I have an Exedy 6029 Clutch kit (pictured) and the rear Main seal (also pictured). I also attached a photo of the car in question.

Thanks all for the suggestions. It does not look like this will be as straight forward as I thought. It is a 70 build car with the original 4 speed. For the job, I have a storage lift (great deal on craigslist), so height is no problem. I have a resurfaced stock flywheel ready and an Exeedy clutch and pressure plate to go in. I also thought, if it was possible, that I would replace the engine rear main seal at the same time. I have redline oil to go back in. However, from what you guys are saying, I should replace a whole bunch of other components while I have the trans out. What would you recommend I replace? I do not want to pull it and then not have done some easy fixes while I was at it.

I am getting ready to replace the clutch in my Series 1 car. I have all the items assembled, but have never attempted this before. Any advice? Thanks!

I am getting ready to replace the clutch in my Series 1 car. I have all the items assembled, but have never attempted this before. Any advice? Thanks!

I just sent you the money for a set to go to NC. Thanks!

I got the rims back from the sandblaster and it is now time to prime and paint. Do I paint the insides as well? Thoughts?

Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll have to get a good look at it on the weekend. Short days and daylight savings mean that garage hours are cut short in the winter!

I took my 1971 Series 1 auto out for a drive the other day, and the brakes felt soft. The pedal needed to be pressed down all the way to brake. I pulled the reservoir cap off and the one closest to the firewall had almost no fluid. Does this suggest it needs a rebuild, or time to replace? I cannot find leaked fluid anywhere. If a rebuild or replacement is necessary, can anyone suggest a reasonably priced replacement? Thanks!

I took my 1971 Series 1 auto out for a drive the other day, and the brakes felt soft. The pedal needed to be pressed down all the way to brake. I pulled the reservoir cap off and the one closest to the firewall had almost no fluid. Does this suggest it needs a rebuild, or time to replace? I cannot find leaked fluid anywhere. If a rebuild or replacement is necessary, can anyone suggest a reasonably priced replacement? Thanks!

I bought a set the first time, but interested in another.

I picked up a Series 1 Blue/blue that the original owner had raced back in the day. He was an SCCA guy and was preparing it to vintage race when he passed away. The car came with a modified air cleaner. Can anyone tell me the purpose? More air flow? Thanks!

Thanks guys. Here is what I picked up with the car. To the seller, it was an after thought and he said, "you want those?" I am taking them down to get sandblasted, but do not want to bother with the 5th wheel if it does not go to the Z. Tire 1 is the stock (I have 4) and tire 2 is the mystery tire. It might be hard to see, but it has four slots as opposed to the nine on the 240Z stock tire. Any idea what it goes with?

On a 72 240Z is the spare tire rim the same pattern/the exact same as the stock steel wheels? Thanks!

I picked up a 1972 240Z, originally white/red that I am slowly bringing back to life. I am not sure if I will keep the car, but I want to do it right. I have the original steel wheels for it, but they were left outside for some time and are rusty. I will take them to be sandblasted but am not sure of what to do next. Should I have them powdercoated (much more expensive) or just rattle can them when they are clean. What are you thoughts? Thanks!

Thanks!

I just pulled a 72 240Z into the garage. It has been sitting for a few years, and I am trying to wake it up. I recall an article (perhaps by Carl Beck) detailing how to get a Z running after it has been sitting a while. After multiple searches, I cannot find it. If someone is familiar with that link or thread, can they point me to it? Thanks!

Thank you. I picked up a blue/blue a couple of months ago, so this is helpful.

$2500 and it is yours!

Other than being thoroughly rotten with rust, a trashed interior, and having not moved under its own power for years, absolutely nothing!

I hate the thought of parting out Series 1 cars, but some are too far gone to be saved. I have several that I am on the fence about. However, I picked up an auto Series 1 that is a goner. I just have not gotten around to it.

Do you think these prices are optimistic? I have a couple of Series 1 cars that I would part out for that! Curious what the group thinks.

Glad to see why the price suddenly went through the roof with no bids. I thought it was rampant seller speculation.

For all of you who have rebuilt a Series 1 four speed (F4W71A), what rebuild kit did you use and where did you get it?

Thanks Hardway, I purchased a set.