loudoun

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I do have some of the interior parts (seatbelts are gone) as well as the entire original AC system.

The engine wiring harness has only been cut where the lead went to the alternator.

Parting out a 1973 240Z. Body is shot and many items like bumpers and seats are gone. However, drivetrain is intact as is engine. What do you need?

Dave, the car looks great. I have a Series 1 in the same 905 red. My $.02. Don't get rid of the WRX! I have an 02 WRX I bought new, a 240Z, and a family. That Subie will seat five.

All, Forgive me if this has been asked before, but I wanted to get some advice. I pulled a set of bumpers off a Series 1 parts car to replace the bumpers on my own Series 1. The bumpers I pulled off look good, but do have some surface rust on the interior/car facing side. How would you recommend I prep the bumpers prior to putting them on my driver? Thanks!

Could the E88 head be an automatic only thing? Personally, I think the E31s continued since I picked up a 71 for parts (HLS30-22279), and it still had the E31. What do all you Series 1 automatic owners have?

Djwarner, it is HLS30-17559. I think it was owner by a former member of this forum awhile back.

I am able to pick up an E31 locally for $100, so I will probably do that. However, the question of when the E31 ended remains. I have Series 1 cars 14060 and 10278. Both have E31s. Did the automatic Series 1 cars come with E88 or were they E31 as well?

It is a 12/70 car in the 17000 Vin range. It is a Series 1 car, but why the E88?

My father just bought a Series 1 automatic. It has an E88 head in it vs the E31 which I suppose should be there. The block is original to the car. Does anyone have an idea why someone would swap an E88 in for an E31? I ask, as I can pick up a local E31. Thanks! Loudoun

I took the car to my local mechanic to have a look at the brakes, because they seemed to take awhile to stop the car. The verdict: they are crammed with gunk and fluid is not even getting to where it should. He recommended replacing a good deal of the components, including the master cylinder, booster, rear cylinders, calipers, as well as new shoes, pads and axle joints. He is a real straight shooter, so I trust him. It will be costly, but is worth it for safety. Does anyone have a good source for reasonable parts? I can supply cores from a 73 and early 71 parts car. The good was that the car looked really clean up on the lift!

Update: I thank everyone for their comments and wanted to update the post. It has been a long day, but the 71 Series 1 now lives in my garage!

Zed Head, Thanks for that excellent response. I am looking for a daily driver that might be a good car to keep for the future.

Gav240Z, Thanks for the response, I would love to hear from the others in response. I agree with you on 920, although I confess my favorite color is 907 Green.

It is not a salvage title.

Hardway, Thanks for the comment!

All, Here goes round two of "To Buy or Not to Buy: That is the Question." I went to look at the car again on Saturday and was able to drive it and look out it in the daylight (more on the driving later). Here is what I found: The car looks like it was a rare one that was rustproofed when new as it had a thick black substance coating all the underside and inner fenders. The body looks great, although there is some rust in the floor pans and on the frame rail as in the pics above. However, I found something new: It looks like at some point the first foot/foot and a half of the frame rail was cut off and rewelded. This would account for the newer radiator and horns. Could this be an early rust repair or an accident? The car drove fine, although this was my first time driving a Z car. There was a clunk/whine from the right rear. I thought that might be a bad U Joint? I was also not used to the brakes having what seemed like non-existant stopping power compared to my WRX. The car did seem to "float" and I think it will need a new set of struts and to replace the undercarriage bushings. However the question remains: To Buy or not to Buy. The seller is in no hurry to sell and is firm at 6k. Should I move on or is this a fair deal? Many thanks to you all. Here are the pics:

Thanks for the replay. Any idea what kind of labor/time/cost is involved for a shop to do a frame rail replacement?

I have a 2002 Subaru WRX (bought new) that I love and a 1991 BRG Miata (awesome car). However, the dream car that is keeping me from working on getting one of my Series 1's on the road is a 1977 International Scout SSII. I bought it last year and am in the process of rebuilding the original engine. It you do not know what a Scout is, well, it is a large departure from a 240Z!

Patcon, I have zero metal skills. I would have to pay for the fix. Would it be cheaper just to replace the entire frame rail? Any idea what amount of time would be required by a competant chassis guy?

I thank everyone for the replies. I understand that some cannot open the photos. I have tried to make them smaller. Lets see if this works. Loudoun

Thanks to everyone for responding. I appreciate the advice.

The car is matching numbers (14,000 range, 4 speed). Overall it looks really nice and complete. As I said, I am just worried about the frame rails. I know it sounds petty, but if this car were British Racing Green or Safari Gold, I would have picked it up already!

All, I looked at a late 1970 production car yesterday. Other than being in 905 red the car looked great and for an East Coast car was remarkably in good shape. it was very original, and even still had the 'D' hubcaps. However, there is something that gives me pause: the frame rails. At first glance they looked nice and solid (even when hit with a screwdriver and hammer). Even the battery tray area was solid. However, on both sides near the shock tower there were small holes in the rail along the inner fender. It almost looked like a weld that was not completed. My question is does this send up alarm bells? Is this a sign of serious corrosion from the inside out? If so, what are the potential fixes and cost? The rest of the car looked solid. The only other are of concern were the floor pans. They were still there, but the underneath supports will have to be replaced. I am not as concerned about that as I am the frame rails. The price ($6k) is low enough to be a great deal, but not if I need to put a bunch more money into it. Thanks for the advice!