Murph

Thanks mate. Yep, they were standard here.

It hasn’t been an easy decision to make, but it is time for my zed car to move on to a new owner. This is a good, honest, well looked after example of a 2 seater 260Z. It’s generally fairly original, but with a few nice modifications in the right places. While it’s certainly not a concourse example, it really is a pretty neat. The fact the car has never had a complete restoration is a testament to how well this car has been looked after over its lifetime. I have owned it for about 5 years now and have about 20 years of documented history. For me, it’s just been a fun road car that looks great, drives really well and everything just works. 1976 260Z 2 seater. Odometer reads 89,434. I’d say 189,434 given the neat, unrestored condition, but you never know. Fairly original, matching numbers L26, runs strong but it is getting a little tired. It’s still got a good few years in it though. Extractors and a clever twin exhaust system with the pipes exiting behind the rear wheels, eliminating the exhaust fume in cabin issue. It has a really nice sound too. Electronic ignition. Original 260Z gearbox rebuilt with brass synchro conversion buy Stewart Wilkins Motorsport Original 260Z R200 rebuilt with DR30 Skyline LSD by Stewart Wilkins Motorsport. Nice and tight, but well behaved. Large aftermarket radiator, big thermo, custom ducting, never overheats Four piston brake upgrade on the front using Hilux callipers, disc conversion on the rear using Z31 hubs and rotors and R32 callipers, 1 1/8” master cylinder. The suspension is a bit of a mix and match, but works well. King springs, Koni adjustable shocks in the rear and Pedders non adjustable in the front. Lower control arm spacers on the front. Front strut brace. Bushings are a mix of polyurethane and rubber. Wheels are Konig Rewind 15x7”, 0 offset, with ~1000km old Toyo Proxes T1Rs. Clutch is a Heavy Duty Exedy Basic Kenwood stereo. Brand new battery Most mechanicals in the car were rebuilt or replaced between ’07 and ’08, e.g. alternator, clutch master/slave, brake master/slave, suspension bushings, clutch, diff, gearbox, ball joints, brakes, suspension, Body: Aside from a few little dings (top of left front 1/4, chip on RH rear wheel arch lip, small indentation in the bonnet from the strut brace) it’s very straight with no bog and no crash damage. The paint job is “decent” in my opinion. Looks great up close, but does have a few defects if you want to be picky. There is one prior rust repair under the battery box. There are three minor rust issues worth mentioning. - Lower left corner of the rear hatch glass seal has a little leak with a few small bubbles showing on the inside of the hatch. The seal is on order and this is an easy fix. - Front upper edge of drivers door has a small crack (now rusting) along the seam. Easy fix. - I did find a small amount of rust on the sill behind the left hand front 1/4 panel. There are a few small holes that have rusted through from the outside due to debris that’s collected between the panels. The 1/4 panel itself is perfect. The sill has been treated and sealed over. The rust won’t progress and there’s no structural issue, so in my opinion there is no urgency for any metal work there. Everything else I’ve seen is immaculate, including the right had sills, floor pan, chassis rails, spare wheel well, back of the roof and back of the hatch. The interior is all very original and in very good condition for its age, but does show a little wear and tear in places. Dash is perfect (re-skinned in ’95). Switch gear is all perfect. In fact everything works very well. Things that need doing: - I’m part way through the job of cleaning up and repainting around the hatch seals (all internal) - The hand brake doesn’t work well. Likely an adjustment issue. - The chokes could be setup a little better - The drivers window needs a little nudge as you wind it up to slot into the seal correctly - The drivers side door lock needs adjusting - Paint chip on right rear wheel lip needs fixing That’s about it. I’ve told it like it is with no sugar coating. $27,500. Keen? Give me a call. 0407891755. The car is located in East Brisbane No swaps, no low balls.

Plugs, rotor & cap....sorted. Just the way the miss came and went doesn't quite make sense to me.

Good advice there mate. Off to limp it down to the parts shop to start with the basics.

Looking for a little help to narrow this one down before I start taking pot shots. A little background. Stock L26, 240Z hitachis, electronic ignition, starting to get a little tired, but still runs strong. About 6 months ago, out of no where the car developed a big misfire. All revs, all loads, plugs on the front three cylinders quite white (rear three I recall were normal tan colour). Wound in $^!# load more fuel on the front carb, no difference in plug colour, still missing. I was too busy to deal with it, so parked the car up. 3 weeks ago, pulled the car out, took it for a drive and it seemed ok. Just a little bit of a miss up in the revs sometimes. Gave it a quick tune and I've driving it like this for three weeks now. Tonight, the car was running nicely. Gave it a hit up through 2nd gear and it pulled nicely. Turned into the left hand corner at the end of this straight and it started to miss again, just like the issue from six months earlier. Any revs, any load from idle to WOT and it'll miss. Intermittent pattern, say 1-3 misses per second. Enough to make it a PITA to drive, but not so bad that I couldn't get home. Giving it a squeeze in third it still pulled hard, just with an intermittent stumble. Got home, pulled the plugs and they're all white again. This time it's all of them. The front three are just little whiter than the rear three, but not by much. I know that I had both banks tuned on the rich side of things, with a fairly dark tan colour. So, what do white plugs tell me? As far as I know, that's either lean, or over-advanced ignition. Lean just doesn't make sense. The only fuel related issue that could affect both carbs at the same time is fuel starvation, and that doesn't make sense when the miss happens at idle as well as at WOT (while still making decent power). So if it's ignition, a weak spark would leave you with darker coloured plugs wouldn't it, not lighter? Am I right to go chasing a timing related issue?

So....I'm an idiot and managed to lose my fuel filler cap somewhere between Brisbane and bundaberg today. :-/ Keen to see if there's any one in or around bundy that would have one spare, or know someone that might? Any other dattos that used the same cap? Any leads greatly appreciated. Cheers, Murph (0407891755)

I have the 15x7 konig rewinds with the "S13" hilux 4 pots with the vented rotor and the clearance is tight, but ok. I'm not 100% sure on the specifics of the setup though, as it was all done by the prev. owner of the car.

Bugger. And they've only had two years to do it!

From where I stand I think it's pretty obvious that when nissan SA call this a "race" motor, they're using the term quite loosely (i.e. it was the marketing departments decision). Gotta flog off an old car with an old motor? Slap in some bigger valves, higher compression and a few other goodies, make a hand full more HP, call it a race motor you're selling cars again! I see no point in even arguing about homogolation, or what series it may have raced in, it probably never did. What far more interesting is that we do have a fairly rare and unknown variant of the L-series motor here.

Just going through all my old car gear at my parents place and found the upper steering column plastic shroud from my old 260Z (just sold it ). It's in good nick other than one tiny crack. It's a freebee for anyone that wants it. It's in townsville. Can post to wherever.

$1000.

My dear little daily driver Sunny is up for sale. Bought it about three years ago with 88,000km on the clock. It was my mates grand fathers car, so had an easy life. It has about 120,000km now. It was an almost totally rust free body then, but unfortunately does have some rust coming through now.... though nothing too serious. The body is all straight, other than the front right hand fender that was smashed in when some wanker reversed into it. Carpets aside, the interior is pretty neat. Dash/instruments/seats are all in great condition. Mechanically she's pretty solid and very reliable. A12 with 32/36 webber (no choke, so she's grumpy when cold) Stanza struts and brakes up front New shocks and springs all round, much stiffer than stock but still smooth. She's a hoot to throw around. 200B SX 14" wheels with good condition yokohama tires Alpine CD deck with pioneer stacker (nothing special there) That's probably about all that's worth mentioning. I really love this car and don't want to part with it, but I just don't have the time anymore. Hopefully there's someone else that can tidy it up again and appreciate it like I did! Looking for ~$1500. Location Brisbane. 0407 891755. Note she doesn't look quite as neat as this anymore, but certainly could with a good clean up.

Got one from nissan in the end. Thanks anyway!

Howdy, Urgently trying to chase down an oil thrower (goes on the front of the crank, just in front of the oil pump drive gear) for a nissan L-series engine. It's a L26, but should be the same part for all L-series engines. If you happen to have one spare, please drop me a PM. Cheers, Justin

Oops here too...just updated mine....hence asking if you were still around this area.