Murph

Thanks Gav. For a bit under AU$800, that seems pretty good to me. That's about the same as I paid for my kings/KYB setup. Now....can I justify spending the $.

Hey Gav, can you let me know the sort of prices you're looking at for the springs + shocks + shipping (have you factored in gst, customs duty etc?)? I might be interested in buying some as well at the same time and splitting the shipping etc.

Good stuff! Will definitely be getting my hands on a copy of that. Many thanks!

Sizing will be an interesting one. There's another bloke following a similar path, but with an RB30DE (going in a VL), also using a 2300. With the 2300 I'm probably on the slightly large side of things, but still pretty good none the less. The engine should pass straight through the superchargers peak efficiency point as it's going up through the revs. Peak rpm for my setup should put me at a pressure ratio of 2.0 and a volume flow of about 20m^3 / min. As you can see on the chart it'd have an outlet temp of ~130ºC (hence the need for efficient intercooling) and will need just over 40kW to drive it. Not much of a loss really when you consider the power that will be made at that point. The only downside I can see to the whole things is $$$. It's going to get big. We're talking AU$3k for the whipple + drive snouts. Then add the L28 + build, aftermarket ECU, the water-air IC, wastegate, fuel system, piping, crank pulley and tensioner etc etc... I think for starters I'll set it up on my L26 (freshly built to stock spec with a mild cam), geared for low boost of around 7psi. Again, I have to do some research to see what a stock L will take. Once the general setup is sorted and I'm happy with it, then get going on the tough L28 build. For the same money I could have an RB26 in there, but you know what, I don't care. I'm so over modern turbocharged engines. I like it oldschool, I like it will throttle response. Huge turbos can be great fun, I always get a buzz driving my mates R32 with a silly sized turbo hanging off it......but when it comes to anything with corners, it's bloody useless having to wait a few seconds for it to make some boost. This way I keep it old school, I keep my throttle response AND I get some big HP and silly amounts of torque to boot. Seems like a win win to me.

You'd be wanting lower compression for forced induction. I'm still not entirely sure what I'll do on the engine build side of things.....i.e. how to build an L28 that will support 450HP reliably. Still have a bit of research to go there. If necessary I'd be quite prepared to put some $$$ into a GOOD engine build with new pistons, rods, headwork, balancing etc etc. First Gen Z: Thanks mate. I'll look into that.

Thought I'd bring this thread back from the dead, see if anyone knows of any other supercharged L-series zeds since this thread was first posted? The reason I ask is that I am currently researching and very seriously considering a supercharged L setup in for my zed. But before I get to that, I have a piece of BS to put straight: What a joke. In a typical turbocharged engine, the ratio of exhaust manifold to inlet manifold pressure is around 2:1 - 3:1. Having such a large back pressure on the exhaust side robs the engine of considerable power, but of course, this is what is driving the turbo. Power aint free. What is typically the biggest downside of a supercharger is the extra drag it places on the engine in normal driving. However, that isn't too hard a problem to work around. Read on. The current plan is fairly ambitious and will certainly be a long term project. The blower of choice is a Whipple/Lysholm 2300, a twin screw sc. The twin screw designs have exceptional volumetric efficiency right through the rev range giving a very flat torque curve. Their only real downside is high outlet temps, necessitating the use of a intercooler. Aside from ecconomy one other issue is that they can typically have a rather savage throttle response due to getting high boost pressure at low rpm and low throttle position. You can solve both these problems in one go using a well designed compressor bypass. What I'll be using is a bit different bypass setup using an external wastegate meant for a turbocharger. In this setup you can keep your throttle body in its normal position at the plenum, and plumb the wastegate in after the supercharger and dumping to atmosphere. The wastegate actuator is hooked to the inlet manifold and to the supercharger outlet. When the throttle is closed, the manifold vacuum pulls the wastegate open. This effectively put the sc under close to no load and will produce no boost. As you open the throttle, the wastegate progressively closes, progressively bringing up boost pressure with throttle position. By altering the wastegate actuator spring tension, you can change the rate at which ir will produce pressure with throttle position. This setup gives you excellent driveability and also excellent ecconomy. (almost finished my little rant ) Anyhow, my plan is to build a fairly tough L28, mount the whipple over on the RH side of the engine where there's plenty of room and intercooled with a large PWR water to air barrel unit. Using a few rule of thumb calculations I'd be looking at peak power of around 450HP @ 1bar (14.5psi). Add instant and linear throttle response and a linear power curve.....not to mention stupid amounts of torque at low rpm. Righto....I think I'm done. Hopefully someone finds that of use.

Know of anyone with a supercharged L-series in their zed? :devious:

Hmm....If I leave now, and drive at an average of 230kph... Unfortunatly the ol girl wouldn't even get in the ball park.

The front diff mount is around $90 from memory.

Cross your fingers that it's one of the uni joints. I have a click that changes with cornering load that I haven't been able to track down in over a year. I think I've checked and replaced just about everything so many times.....and no luck. I just put up with it now. :-/

Does the sound change with cornering load?

Thanks Carl. They are an american company though, right?

They seem to be american. Don't know where they are made though. http://konigwheels.com

Well the thing that shits me with the whole thing is it's AU$1180 for the four rims, vs AU$660 in the US! Why the hell does it cost another $500 to get some rim into the country? It seems like a somewhat inflated price. Oh well. I think I might just have to put this idea on hold a little longer.

Thanks Jim. I've just finished looking at the customs web page..... :eek: My summary.....forget doing it yourself......get a customs broker. At this rate I can see Ozzy Tires being the best option. :-/

US$510 for economy shipping from MSA! :eek: They have to be kidding. Express airmail from TTT is ~US$330!

There are different taper angles available as far as I am aware. You definitley want to be getting the right thing.

I know the guy that is the oz distributor for panasports.....but we're talking ~$450/rim. The Konigs seem to be the best value for money so far. Sean: Will let you know when I know. Haven't heard anything as yet.

Hey mate....I'm currently looking at exactly the same wheels. Here's the options I have found so far (all prices in AU$): • Techno toy tuning (the ones on eBay) - Wheels $660 - Duty $100 (need to check on this....should have a figure tomorrow) - GST $66 - Shipping $400 - Total: $1226 • Ozzy Tires (the aussie distributor) - Wheels $270/wheel - Shipping $100 - Total $1180 • Motorsport Auto - They sell them at the same price at TTT. I'm checking with them if they can ship them by sea, as TTT will only do airmail and it's a real killer. I should have a reply today hopefully. I'll post up when I know. • Got any good friends in the US? Get them to buy the wheels then ship them by sea as a gift. No duty, no gst and cheap shipping. I'm looking into this option at the moment.

Good point. I'll have a look into it.

Damn they look good! I really really want some! So far I've worked out it's going to cost ~AU$1225 to get them into the country when you factor in customs excise, GST and shipping. That'll end up at over AU$2k by the time I have tires on.....not cheap at all.

I agree witth 440k. Fix the clutch fan setup for sure. It will easily outperform the thermo fan and if the clutch is working correctly it wont cause any extra drag on the motor when it shouldn't.

What are these ANSA tips? Never heard of them. I've taken my 260 for a spin a few times with just the stock headers. Ohh boy is it loud! I first tried driving it windows up, but even with ear plugs in it was unbearable. Windows down, not too bad... Made a glorious sound over 6000 rpm!