Murph
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Everything posted by Murph
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Ohh! What a call! -
Nathan:Mine is an early 74 (March, the 1st month of 260Zs), no. 756. Yours being 5076 is most likely one of the later ones. To back that up, mine being the early type with the 240Z shell, has no vents behind the bumper at all. Looks like a great buy hey....I'm amazed at how rust free it seems to be.
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I recon.....stick with black. Gives a more purposeful look than chrome. -
Can't say I've heard of that product. Where can you get it?. When all this uni/exam madness is over I'll have to have a look around for some for my dash (all restored). -
Hi Alan, You beat me too it! I went back and searched out the post where you were originally talking about the ducting and was just about to post that it was only on the later ZGs etc etc.
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It lacks all the ducting that the real deal has. There's a thread on here somewhere with photos showing what it should look like.
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Maybe we can get em cheap on a group buy. For what I want to do, a genuine ZG with no engine or box would be perfect....might be able to get such an example a good bit cheaper. Who knows....all a pipe dream for now. :-/ P.S. I'll have a KGC10 too while I'm at it.
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My gearbox used to behave in a similar manner. I changed the oil and it was like a whole new box. Quite an amazing difference. I'd recommend you change the oil before go playing with the clutch. It's cheap and there's no harm in giving it a go.
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Hey Gav....any idea what sort of $$$ we'd be talking for a real ZG? I'm in the same position in that I'll have finished my degree soon and will have some money coming in....and I really want to build a ZG! But yeah, seems finding parts that are accurate isn't so easy. I'm too much of a perfectionist to have something that isn't quite right.
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You have more mail!
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Let us know how they go when you get them in.
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One thing to note when you're changing the oil. The filler plug on the side of the transmission has tapered thread, so if someone has over tightened this it'll be a bastard to get out! Remember when you do it up, it does not need to be overly tight (not loose either obviously). I.e. you don't need to swing off it with a breaker bar to do it up. I'd recommend you make sure you can remove the filler plug BEFORE you drain the box. I could get mine out as the PO's had over tightened it, then totally mutilated the plug to the point it was a round off stump. I had to take it to my mechanic to get the thing out. On the topic of changing into first gear while moving at speed, it can be done if you double clutch and rev match as you go back to first. While ideally you should double clutch when doing this, you can (with my box anyway) get away with just rev matching it. That'll give you a nice hard kick out of slower corners.
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dohc: Ouch! Damn I'm glad I'm in Queensland, where the state goverment doesn't do the double dip on fuel excise. Prices here are around 91 octane : 97c/L 95 octane : 103c/L 98 octane : 109c/L It's a good 7-8c cheap down in brisbane too. With these prices and the fuel consumtion of the zed, I've bought myself an A12 powered B310 sunny as a daily driver. It uses less than half the fuel the zed does.....and I'm loving it!
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Oh don't worry. I've done the same on both of them before. I didn't even know a Toyota S800 existed until about a month ago.
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Gav: Toyota S800
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I have a pretty worn out clutch in mine and it doesn't seem to cause such problems. Now it's quite normal that you can't get back into first until you're under about 10kmh. Pretty much any manual box will do that. Now, when I first had my car (has a rather tired 5 spd) it was very hard to get into first, like you'd have to sit there pushing the stick for about 3-5sec before it'd go in. The fix? Change the oil! Was like a whole new box. That's what I would recommend before you try anything else.
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Vicky: Most Z31s had the VG30, however there were a few with the NICS RB20DET.
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....and with time and money you might as well get a new exhaust made.
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The front section definitely no, the rear section, unlikely. Can't give you a definite answer though.
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I dunno what the go is, but I've never found the steering in my zed to be particularly heavy. Sure it needs a little muscle when parking etc, but not that much. When moving it quite light, unless you really push it HARD into a corner and speed, then it loads up a bit. This is with sticky 225s on the front and a smaller after market steering wheel btw. My old dead stock sigma had substantially heavier steering. Aside from that, another reason the zeds do have heavyish steering is that they do have a fairly quick rack.
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Gav: The KE25 is the local model, the TE27 is a jap only model. Same body shape. The one with the rotor in it was a KE20 (Mr Enforcer Engineering). That's the 2 door sedan shape, otherwise know and the peanut. The KE25 is the 2 door coupe, know as the mango. :-) KE20: http://1949car1985.piranho.de/werkbilder2001/toy-corolla-2.jpg http://www.onthenet.com.au/~paulp/corolla/creole.jpg KE25: http://www.toymods.org.au/Chris_Colley.jpg http://www.netwiz.net/~tcar/images/heuvinck.jpg The local KE2x corollas got the 3K, where as the jap TE27 Levin had the 2T-G, flares etc etc. TE27: http://www.funny-car.co.jp/imgs/te27_01.jpg http://www5f.biglobe.ne.jp/~d_loco_f/htmi.files/05_Janitor_room/Janitor_room/TE27-03.JPG http://www.sun-inet.or.jp/~skydog/alfa/mikawa/te27.jpg http://susanwp.hp.infoseek.co.jp/wp1/te27.jpg http://kazu-ta2.hp.infoseek.co.jp/03.ty.TE27.jpg http://www.toyotaownersclub.com/gallery/albums/album03/te27_pana.sized.jpg -
I'm interested in the rear struts/hubs from the damaged 240Z. If you're willing to part with them, can you give me a price. I only need the strut/hub assemblies, nothing else that's attached to them, eg brakes, shocks, springs, stub axle.
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Victor: Too right it is! A mate's sand blasted it now, so it's nice and clean. Now the rest of us just have to hope that that's a trophy we wont be winning. -
Misc Z's and other cars
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From the album: Other Z's and things
This came out of my mates RB20DET a few weeks ago. The initial damage was due to detonation caused by a shagged fuel pump. The result was 20psi down on cyl 1. Pump was fixed and the motor ran great for another year or so at well over stock power levels. Eventually as the rings condition degraded, more oil was getting into the cylinder lowering the detonation threshold to the point it was pinging at stock boost. Eventually it let go in quite a dramatic fashion....and this was the result!
