Murph
Free Member
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Murph
-
From the album: Other Z's and things
This is Warren Skimming's 240Z. Quite a well known local race car. Run's a suck-through turbo L25. I can't remember the exact figures, but it was making 400+HP, at something like 1.5bar. It's run a 11.8 down the 1/4 mile and still holds the 2nd fastest lap time at our local track. -
-
-
From the album: Other Z's and things
This is our Datsun 720 ute basher. A few of the guys liked running over the chiney apples, so we had to do a little...uhh...reinforcement on the front. -
-
From the album: My Z's
Chucked this in there for a day just for a laugh. I recon 128dB aint too bad. :-) -
-
If I remember correctly, the front diff mount in my car is a genuine nissan part that I got through All Z with a bunch of other bits and pieces. Was around $90 I think.
-
Looks sorta like the mirrors on my '75 2+2 parts car. It has both left and right mirrors. http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/DCP_6933.jpg
-
Looks like you have yourself a 240Z tank.
-
The ones on the rail are definantly the same size. The thing is, mine is an earlier chassis number than flyer4100's. His is 874, mine is 756. Maybe they were just going mix and match at that stage? Oh aint is fun having the inbetween car!
-
Interesting. Mine is a 74 (RS30000756), yet if I remember correctly the inlet and return lines are the same size. Then again....I could quite likely be mistaken. Or one of the PO's has swapped tanks for some reason. Nothing supprises me with my zed anymore.
-
Pretty sure it is flyer. Rogersz: Who knows. All my vent lines are perished, but I can't get the bloody tank out to replace them. The bolts on the straps are very solidy corroded into place.
-
Yep, that's where it comes out. The green wire that connects to nothing is the pump +ve. Just ground the pumps -ve to the chassis. Now, from what I've found with my car, there's a pretty big voltage drop between the battery and this wire (~2V with no load). Add that this wire is unfused, old, and really wont be able to push a decent current. So I'd strongly recommend if you're installing a decent electric pump, to run a dedicated, relayed and fused feed straight from the battery. Also, power to that wire comes on with the ignition. You'd be better off having it attached to a oil pressure switch. That way in the event you had a crash, the pump will stop when the engine does, minimising the risk of your pump pushing 500HP worth of fuel onto the ground.
-
I have a 4/74 260Z and I've been through the same thing. What I found out was that the early 260's didn't have the electric pump, although they do have the wiring for it. As for the "Fuel Liquid separator"/expansion tank and additional pumbing....the aussie zeds didn't get it. So, your setup there is quite normal.
-
Yeah, it's one of the super cheap ones. I was quite impressed, nice and sturdy, quite water proof unless it's raining sideways (the corners are sorta open). However, if it's in the sun, the straps will degrade and fall appart within 2 months, then the main plastic panels will be falling appart after 3. Mine getting pretty shagged now and it's maybe 3 or 4 months old at the most. They aren't kidding when they put the sticker on it saying "Not for pemanent use". I'd say within a few months I'll be buying a few good quality UV resistant tarps and rigging them up over the frame. -
-
Hehe...oh you should see it now.... It's fallen appart quite a bit since that photo (about a month ago)!
-
I was never a big fan of the hotwires, but I have to say they do suit the zed pretty well. I certainly not in any rush to get rid of them. -
From the album: My Z's
-
-
-
-
-
