Murph

I'll have to check it's condition before I decide that. But from what I know of it so far, it's about a 90% chance it will be used for parts. So whatever I don't use, will be sold.

Hmmm I wouldn't know who to get such little interior bits from, other than other zed owners with parts cars. Speaking of which, I might just have a 2+2 parts car soon. Will let you know.

Where's the pics! Out of interest, here's a little vid of my zed vs. matt's zed at the drags a month or so ago. Mine is (obviously) the really slow one with the shocking reaction time. http://homes.jcu.edu.au/~jc118789/zedvszed.avi Was pretty cool having them both there though. It's rare enough to see two zeds in the same place at the same time here, let alone two identical looking 260z's racing each other. Btw, matt's was running ~14.4, mine around ~16.7.

Or as another temporary measure: STOCK-CODE: KC5290 RRP: $62.95 Digital Tachometer Display Kit for Cars Refer: Silicon Chip April 2000. Unlike its bulky predecessor from August 1991, this PIC based tachometer is housed neatly in a small jiffy box (83 x 54 x 31mm), which mounts nicely on your dashboard. Its amazing features include 4 digit LED display showing up to 9,900rpm in 100rpm increments, 10 LED bargraph with optional dot or bar mode (showing 8 independent rpm thresholds), calibration options for 1 - 12 cylinder 4-stroke or 1 - 6 cylinder 2-stroke engines, anti-display flickering feature and automatic night time display dimming. This kit can also be combined with our rev limiter KC-5265, to perform engine limiting. Kit includes case with silk-screened panel, PCB¹s, pre-programmed PIC micro, 7 segment displays, red acrilic, hook-up wire and all electronic components.

From jaycar: STOCK-CODE: QM1442 - Limited RRP: $49.95 Automotive Tahometer * HANDHELD * LARGE DIGITAL LCD READOUT * INDUCTIVE PICKUP * 1 TO 8 CYLINDERS * 2 AND 4 STROKE * DATAHOLD This professional tachometer is handheld, wireless and easy to use._ It measures accurate RPM for 2 and 4 stroke engines with 1 to 8 cylinders using the Inductive Pickup. It features an easy opening inductive pickup, large LCD display, datahold and battery low indicator. Specifications: 2000 count RPM4: 600 - 2000 / 6,000 - 12,000 on X10 RPM2/DIS: 300 - 2000 / 3000 - 6,000 on X10 Accuracy: +/-2.0%+5digits Dimensions: 185 x 58.5 x 76.5mm Power: 9V battery STOCK-CODE: QM1440 RRP: $78.95 Dwell Tacho DMM - RPM X 1, X10 - DWELL ANGLE - RESISTANCE - DC VOLTS - 15 AMP DC - CONTINUITY BUZZER - HOLSTER INCLUDED - PROBE CLIPS INCLUDED Features include a 3.5 digit LCD display with automatic zero adjustment, low battery warning and auto power off after 15 minutes. Includes dwell angle and RPM (x1, x10) for 4, 5, 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Comprehensive 15 page user guide describes how to: - Use dwell angle function - Adjust dwell angle - Dual point distributors - Test for dwell variation - Set idle speed and mixture setting- Adjust fast idle speed - Air fuel ratio test - Air filter test- Positive crankcase ventilator (PCV) test - Cylinder power balance test- Distributor centrifugal advance test - Heavy and light load battery test- Charging system test - Alternator output voltage - Generator output voltage- Cutout relay - Starter circuit - Alternator diode test - Condenser leakage test- Testing point resistance - Locating short in primary circuit. Specifications: - DC voltage: 200mV, 2V, 20V, 200V - Base accuracy: ±0.8% - Impedance: 10M - Resistance: 200, 2K, 20K, 200K, 2M, 20M - Base accuracy: ±1% - Overload protection: 250VDC / AC RMS - DC current: 200mA, 15A - Base accuracy: ±1.2% - Overload protection: Fuses 0.2A 250V, 20A 250V - Tachometer: 0-10,000 RPM - Base accuracy: ±2% - Overload protection: 250VDC / AC RMS - Dwell: 4 cylinder 0 - 90, 5 cylinder 0 - 72 6 cylinder 0 - 60, 8 cylinder 0 - 45 - Overload protection: 250VDC / AC RMS - Duty cycle: 0.1 - 99.9 ±2% - Test current: 1.0 ±0.6mA - Test voltage: Approximately 2.4V - Size: 165 x 78 x 45mm Audible continuity beeper and diode test Supplied with lead, rubber holster and comprehensive instructions

260DET has an FJ20DET. Re the tacho, maybe as a temporary measure by one of the those "car" multimeters that can do rpm. They aren't too expensive from memory. Is the MSD a CDI ignition? Or what's the reason it can't be hooked to the stock tacho?

I usually get about 14-15L/100km out of mine. It's a basically stock L26 though. Out of interest though, what is the powerband in everyone elses zeds like? Mine for example builds power till around 4200, then flattens out, but still makes usable power till 5000, then drops off. There's usually no point reving over 5000rpm. I have heard many others saying they should be able to pull to about 6 however?

Only the surname unfortunatly. We'll see how it goes in two weeks.

Steve: I went out to the RAAF today. Turns out the guy is over in Malaysia atm, and has been there for about 3 years. They've emailed him, and told me to come back in two weeks to find out the response. Apparently he does want to get rid of the car. So we'll see what happens.

That's the one. He's our local zed expert. He's been quite helpful since I've had the zed. AFAIK his 240 holds the second fastest time on our local track, only second to a 1200 ute of all things. Mind you I've never seen him drive at that pace, he's generally about 3 sec off that time. Always races very cleanly and professionally though.

Hi Steve, While it seems to be a bit of a zed desert up here, there are a supprising few of them around if you keep your eyes open. For that matter I've just heard of a new one today. Here's the ones I can think of off the top of my head: -My 260 2 seater -Matt's 260 2 seater (tough L28 circuit/street car) -Another red 2 seater that's always at the circuit -black 2 seater (apparently pretty shagged) -green/yellow 2 seater (only saw it once) -white 240 (another young guy from my uni owns it...seems fairly neat) -brown 260 (old(er) woman drives it...looks stock as a rock, but daily driven) -white 260 4 seater (young guy, apparently owns a 2 seater as well) -2x blue 260 4 seater (sitting in yards) -skimmo's blue 240z race car (L24....turbo....very quick) -skimmo's white 240 -gun metal grey 260 2 seater (injected NA L28, was one of the fastest cars at the track....sounded unbelievable...haven't seen it in a afew years) -shifty's blue and silver 260 2 seater ( fellow eng student, L28, tripple mikuni's) -brown 260 2 seater (sitting in some guys yard) -phil masons white 240 rally car (very quick L28, was inj, but carb'd atm, a mate just finished rebuilding it's motor last week) -red 2 seater, white wheels (only just heard about this today, was on show with one of the clubs) -another white rally prepped 2 seater -black L28t 260 2 seater (only saw is once, slaughtered my mates R32) -white 2 seater (I thought it was anyway) at the RAAF base....ages ago Probably a few more kicking around. Let me know exactly what details you need on these cars, and I'll grab them next time I run into any of these ppl. Btw, can you give me some details on this derelict 2+2 at the RAAF, I might be interested.

Fuel was fine the other day when having problems. Took it for a drive a few min ago and it's not misfiring anymore. Who knows. It was running a little hot this avo, so may have had something to do with that maybe. Who knows. Too many variables. Gotta adjust my valve clearances again....one of the them is a little noisy again.

Reffering back to the begining of my original post....I was right: The f*cker is still misfiring. Now at least it's only when over 5000rpm. In general the car feels a little dull, doesn't have a nice sharp induction note to it or it's usual sharp throttle response. F*ucker. Any ideas? P.S. Yes...I am in a filthy filthy mood atm.

Haha yeah I thought mine was bad enough on fuel.....but you have tripples to contend with.

Try changing the oil in your box. If it hasn't been done in quite a while, it will make a huge difference. The short gearing sorta bugs me around town, eg when taking off from lights. Unless you want to rev it a bit you spend all your time shifting gears. Mind you, you'll get to love the flexibility of the motor. Normal driving I'd rarely rev it over 2000rpm and it'll happily haul 3rd gear from bugger all speed if asked to.

For the linkage in the door just make one yourself. I've made one for my zed before without too much trouble using the wire from 10L bucket handle. Still working faultlessly.

I think your describing the same thing as I notice with my zed. First gear is rather short and will rev out quickly, but the car doesn't accelerate that hard. Sorta like most of the power goes into reving the motor rather than pushing the car. When you get to 2nd and 3rd then it really starts to pull. That what you mean? I find that if I can get some wheel slip off the line so that it doesn't have to rev through the full rev range it's much much faster through first gear. I'd imagine you wont have much trouble dispatching most V6 falcodores though.

Fixed! Replaced the condenser. That was the only thing I hadn't originally replaced. Mind you I couldn't get the old one off. That screw is solidly corroded into place. I've just mounted it to another part of the dizzy.

I just cleaned up the end of the ground lead that hooks to the points assemby. It seemed pretty clean already though. Took it for a drive...bit lumpy at idle and in the mid range, but didn't die on my in 5min of driving up and down my street (the neighbours will love me ). Took it a bit further away and gave it a good hit, felt strong till it got up in the revs where it was missing again quite badly. Same as before I replaced everything. What's the actual effect to of the points gap being too big or too small?

It never ends... Today I decided to check the ignition timing and points on my 260Z. The point looked reasonable, but the gap was somewhat tight, so I set it to 0.45mm as the manual says. Ignition timing was a little more advanced than the factory spec 10deg, so I corrected that. Took it for a drive and it felt fine lower down, but was missing up in the revs. Took it home, rechecked the points gap and put the ign timing where it was. Wouldn't start. Checked everything a million times...wouldn't start. Later had a play again, then it did start. Still missing up in the revs. So went and bought myself -Bosch GT40R -New points -New dizzy cap (the posts in the old one looked pretty bad) -New rotor Interestingly there were two condensers. One in the normal stop on the dizzy and one on the coil itself, connecting to the +ve terminal. I removed this one. Chucked it all in, set the points gap and she fired straight up, nice and smoooooth. Cool. Took it for a drive, no miss....all good. On my way home after ~5min of driving it just died and wouldn't restart. I suspected a clogged fuel pick up as the tank was pretty low. Put some more fuel in...wouldn't start. Pushed it home... Check for fuel problems, fuel bowls full, pull the line at the fuel rail and the elec pump is pushing PLENTY of fuel....no problems here. Checked the points gap....it had closed down a little, but not that much.....reset it. Started fine. Cool. Took if for a drive, this time staying close to home. After 2min of driving.....died.....roll in the driveway. Took it home. Check everything again. Reattach 2nd conderser is case it was needed for some reason... Started fine.....sounds sort of uneven at idle though. Took it for a drive....this time about 1 min then died.....roll in the driveway again....lucky. Left it a few min....car starts....just....but is very rough. Leave it a few more minutes....idles fine misses when you rev it. A few more minute, almost fine again. Someone HELP! It's driving me batty! I'm 100% certain I've hooked everything up as it was, although it could have been wrong to start with....there's some dodgy dodgy wiring in my car.

Awesome to hear mate! Sounds like a great buy. Love to see these pics when you get them up.

s13 parts for sale (and a few others) All parts from our s13 silvia front cut are being sold of as the project has had to be abandoned due to other commitments. These are the main bits that come to mind, although we should have pretty much all other parts that would be in a front cut around somewhere. •CA18DET + Gear box + wiring loom + ecu •Radiator •Condensor •Evaporator •Aircon blower motor •Climate control unit •Compressor •Ignition wiring loom •Brake master cylinder •Clutch master cylinder •ABS actuator •Steering rack Also: •VL Turbo fuel pump. •Surge tank •3 x T2's of unknown origin •RB20 turbo, perfect nick, never boosted •VG30DETT •Any other Z32 parts If your interested in any part....make an offer. The parts are all located in Townsville, North Queensland. Contact me via PM or email me at datto-zed at performanceforums.com.

FS: SII Bluebird TRX with SIII engine This was bought a year or so ago as a potential project base, but the project is being sold off due to the owners having new commitments. At the time it contained a turbocharged EFI L20B, but that's been sold off and it now has the CA20 from the SIII bluebird. Anyhow, it's got some rust in the body, but nothing terminal. Interior is still in good nick. Oh, has a sun roof and twin thermofans too. There's some minor electrical wiring to be done yet and it doesn't have an exhaust. I think they might have one sitting around though. 150000km on the motor. It's being sold unreg and no RWC. AFAIK it's complete and running. If your interested I'll obtain any other details for you. $800 negotiable. The car is located in Townsville, North Queensland. Contact me via PM or email me at datto-zed at performanceforums.com. http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/whitebird1.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/whitebird2.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/whitebird3.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/whitebird4.jpg

FS: Unfinished CA18DET -> Bluebird TRX Project Due to other commitments the owners of the project are having to sell. The CA18DET and the s13 gearbox are currently installed in a SIII bluebird TRX. This shell is a bit on rough side but is still useable with some work. Things that still need doing: •Wiring •Install new fuel system (VL turbo pump and surge tank supplied) •New tail shaft (just need to source an auto datto 180b unit....they fit) •Brakes may need upgrading for engineering...although I am not certain on that. •Reinstall interior There's plenty more to tell, so if your interested give me a yell and I'll get you the full details on it all. Lot's of s13 parts available too. We're looking for around the $2000 mark but are negotiable. The car is located in Townsville, North Queensland. Contact me via PM or email me at datto-zed at performanceforums.com. http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/redbird1.jpg http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/redbird2.jpg

That's a possibility....although the ball bearing would be too deep for the standard spring length.