Murph

What about the poor bastard in a normal car you just ran over? He'll be dead while you might have a few scratches. The argument that these trucks are safer infuriates me....it's just so very selfish it's not funny. Looks like we all better go out and buy huge trucks so we're safer. Oh look, now we're all driving 3.5 ton behemoths, looks like I'm going to need to buy a 5 ton, 30 foot truck so I'm 'safer'. :stupid: Sure if people have a genuine reason for needing such a vehicle, then that's ok with me. But I dare say a very high percentage don't.

Nice. Must feel good to have it all coming back together finally. Cool number plate too. Those side skirts are certainly a bit how ya goin. :sick:

Ahh well....gotta learn some lessons the hard way. At worst I've lost AU$20 on paint and a few hours of my time. The sunny will have the engine out again in about a year, so if it's looking like it needs some more attention then, I'll redo it properly.

texasz: To tell you the truth I cut a few corners along the way as I simply didn't have the time to do it properly. Not all the paint was removed, so in some parts it is effectively just an expensive top coat. We started by cleaning it with the karcher which pulled up a lot of the old grease, grime and loose paint. Most of the rusty bits or areas with loose paint were then wirewheeled. After that I scrubbed the whole lot of it by hand with a degreaser (of the soapy variety). Gave it a few days to dry, then painted. I painted it with a brush which works fantasticly. The paint levels out quite quickly, so you wont get any brush marks at all. So ultimately I didn't do as good a job of it as I should or could have, but for the limited time I had available to me, it's a huge improvement on what was there and will stop the rust in the areas that it was a problem.

I did exactly that job in my sunny not long ago.....not fun!

For anyone that doesn't quite understand exactly how a manual transmission works and what exactly the synchros do, go and have a read of this: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission.htm Doesn't really show you the specifics of how exactly the synchros work however. This is something I'd also like to know.

I've just recently treated a fair bit of my sunny with POR15. Gotta say I'm quite impressed so far. Previously I'd done the driverside floor and a few patches that needed fixing for road worthy. The engine is out at the moment so I've gone and done the whole engine bay, crossmember, radius rod mounts and a few other bits. There was a lot of surface rust in there before, so certainly look MUCH better now. Before After (in straight POR15 and that's how I'll be leaving it): Crossmember (top coated in matte black):

Surely there's an engine bay shot in one of the old sales brochures?

...just what I was told.

From what I heard, he was in the area along with the rest of his F1 team when it happened. Having actually seen first hand the devastation caused, it's no surprise he's shelling out a large sum. Good on him.

I agree it seems way too good to be true. I'll dummy it up some time this week if time permits.

....and a sump, engine mounts, gearbox mounts etc etc

Walter, you sure that's what he means? I doubt it. If he did, that would be impossible to retain anywhere near the original strength. It'd be pretty damn silly.

I'd love to get the Townsville Zed (or even all datsun) owners together. I've counted maybe 30+ 240 and 260 zeds around now. Add a bunch of 280s, Z31s and Z32 and it'd be a pretty big meet! Mick, a while back one of the local 510 owners was telling me theres a datsun club in the works. Haven't heard anything since however. Richard: Who are the Townsville people that are already part of the Q Z car club?

Similar setup here, kings lowered and KYB shocks. My fronts trap just, but the rears are borderline. The springs can move around a little, but not enough that they can fall off the perch. In 13 months of hard driving I've never had a problem, had them twist or fall off. Will be interesting to see what they say if it ever gets sent over the pits at QT.

I was also thinking you're going to have to go pretty short on the rods.....but....really, the stroke is only 2mm larger than the LD28. 2mm isn't going to make that much of a difference. I currently have a L26 in pieces (bare block other than the crank still being in there) and also have access to a RB25 crank. If I get the time this week I'll dummy up the RB crank against the L block.

What would characterise the behaviour of the steel synchros? One thing I notice with this box, is that it sometimes wont let you into gears and such when just tootlin' around town, but when you want to go fast, it'll let you shift gears very quickly. Like, a shite load quicker than most of the newer nissan RWD boxes (eg, RB20, RB30, SR20 etc).

Thanks Ron. Spose I'm not too worried either way hey. We'll see what it is when I get it out of there.

Yeah sucks that I'm so far away here. It's a standard 5sp H shift pattern, not dogleg. You never know I might have totally screwed my calculations, however at the time I did double check them. Some time soon I'll be swapping in a good 260Z box, so then I'll have a chance to see exactly what this box is. Thanks for the input guys.

Very very interesting. If my calculations are correct, it appears my 260 has the "Nismo Rally" direct drive box. It's the only one that fits the ratios I calculated....and I have a few suspision that my car was formerly used as a rally car. Any one know if it'd be worth some money? It's comming out soon as it is pretty tired. Pops out of 2nd and 5th and the input shaft bearing seems to be fairly shagged.

I'm wondering if he was running the full 2 bar boost pressure for that dyno run. A 3 liter at 2 bar, I'd actually expect more.

Oooo! Ouch!

I would have done an L28, however I simply couldn't find one up here. Also the matter of $. I had the L26 here and ready to go. Really, what does the L28 offer over the 26 other than the extra 200cc capacity? The whole thing hasn't cost too much so far. I have pretty much all the parts here and ready to go including a new oil pump for under $500. If I have to bore it, so buy oversize pistons etc, then it'll start adding up.