Matthew Abate

Silicone Rubber Sheet,Heat Resistant, Heavy Duty,High Grade 60A,12 x 12 Inch, 1/16 Inch Thickness for DIY Gaskets, Pads, Seals, Crafts, Flooring,Cushioning of Anti-Vibration, Anti-Slip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LN8MJZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is what JDM Car Parts sent in response to my questions: 1. I can tell the EPU is a full system, but I can’t tell if the header is the same as the Super Ex or if it has also been updated. EPU Has 3rd Gen Flipped flange. 2. I see that the EPU version can accommodate an r200 differential, but does it still work with a r180 and the factory cross member that has indents for a twin pipe exhaust? It would not work with R200 set up. These indents are for factory exhaust for Z432 and such. I think they’re not understanding my question, but I found somewhere else that there are specific part numbers for the r180 version and the r200 version. I am betting the r200 version is too wide to work with the factory differential cross member with the exhaust indentations. 3. I saw one website saying the EPU version has an O2 sensor, but I wasn’t sure where it is. Is it on the header or the y-pipe? O2 Sensor does not come with the system. It comes with a plug, which can be removed for O2 Sensor if you wish to use it. 4a. Is the EPU system a bolt in setup in a left hand drive car, or is there going to be a clearance issue with the steering shaft hitting the header? NO Made to fit LHD / RHD > Yes. It fits both RHD and LHD YES 4b. Related to this, are all of the hanger brackets welded on already? YES for EPU 5. Are there any other changes to the EPU over the Legalis r / super ex that explain the price increase over the older setup? Many of the products have been updated without changing part #. We recommend you purchase header and exhaust system together, so you will not have any matching issues. Super EX must be used with Legalis R 750-15414 It is made for a Lowered vehicle. It is made for R180, it does Not work with R200. Super EX does NOT work with Legalis R 750-15411(For Stock height vehicles, it was popular in 80's.

Thanks! I wasn’t able to find many people talking about how they made the brackets that hold this thing in among the various build threads I’ve read about installing one of these. Hopefully this will help someone either finish their project earlier or figure out a better solution than I have. The flat steel bracket material they provide is a no-go. Unless you’re putting this into a car where the mount points on the car are close to the mount points on the evaporator, it’s going to swing around all over because they are very springy. I'm trying to create ate least one triangle for each axis. Maybe my transmission hump bracket should have been rod instead of sheet to be stiffer, but I think the last of the three will wipe out any flex. The other benefit of going with rod over sheet in the back and on top is I’ll have WAY more space to run wires, tubes, and pipes. I made some mock-ups of various brackets for the top and they all created a huge barrier I wouldn’t be able to snake the ducting around:

Made some brackets for the Vintage Air AC Evaporator: Good clearance all around except for the corner of the cardboard glove box insert. It makes contact but it’s not right. I may be able to pull it forward when I make the third bracket. Right now the mock-up can twist longitudinally, so I definitely need to use that third hard point. Kinda wish I had used 16 gauge instead of 22 gauge steel for the hump bracket because it’s pretty flexible. However, I think I need another bend in it so it’s not flexed. That may stiffen it a smidgen, and maybe it won’t be an issue. I’ll decide after I have the third bracket on if it needs to be redone.

I bought a 12x12 sheet of closed cell silicone from Amazon that is the same thickness as the 240z gasket. I ended up changing the hole size on that from the sample and making about eight paper templates before deciding on a final one. An X-acto knife goes through that silicone like butter. The ZX bracket was sandblasted and I used the same blue paint I used on the block, which I purchased from Motorsport. The silver paint is Eastwood Alumablast. I used a Timken 6203-2RS deep groove bearing (17x40x12mm). I have painted all of my aluminum parts in the engine bay. I have learned that radiator fluid additives can completely ruin the finish on nice aluminum parts so the only things I leave raw in the engine bay are brass and stainless steel. For the quarter windows, I used Goo Gone to get them cleaned after taking them apart. The rubber is all new from Precision (not very precise, if you ask me). I polished the steel with Barkeeper’s Friend and then stainless steel polish. It has a faint brushed finish rather than a mirror finish, but that’s intentional. The broken joints in the frame were glued with JB weld and clamped, because I didn’t feel like breaking out the welder for a single spot weld. However, the rubber, being not precise (see above), might have ruined that joint. I can’t completely tell and am not taking it apart to find out. It doesn’t matter because the car holds it together. Weather strip is held in with black 3M weather strip adhesive and the various gaps were filled with black RTV. It looks like it’s supposed to be like that.

Making some progress: Reconditioned my 280ZX AC Bracket Reconditioned the Storage Box Latches Installed Most of the Interior Insulation Reconditioned the Fuel Flow / Fume Control Valve Reconditioned the Steering Coupler Reconditioned and Repaired the Quarter Windows Made a Brake Booster Gasket & Installed the Clutch Master Cylinder

That answered the question! Thanks @Racer X “Early R180's measure 110mm inside the ring gear. 77 and later model year R180s measure 115mm inside the ring gear. This minor change means that the ring and pinions won't swap between the early and later models. If you have an early diff you must use an early carrier, and if you have the later diff you must use a later carrier. It is possible to use a early carrier on a later ring gear with a spacer…”

Not here to debate whether or not someone should do these things. I’m here to understand IF it can be done because this information is not findable on the internet and there is a lot of bad info out there. For example, I didn’t know that the R in r180 stands for “Rear,” that there is an f180 that was used as the front differential in trucks, and that f180 gears are cut in the opposite direction, meaning you can’t use an f180 as an r180. I also didn’t know that the ring gear inside diameter changed from 110mm to 115mm at some point in the evolution of the r180 family. Pinning down when that happened would be worthwhile, as would when they switched from 100mm bolts to 12mm bolts and finding out if 9-bolt rings are standard or if there are others. I would also like to know if any manufacturers other than Subaru and Nissan used r180 differentials with the same case, as that would open up parts availability and swapping potential. While I appreciate that the complexity of messing with a differential may or may not necessitate caution, wether or not one use the full assembly or chooses to fine tune their differential with internal parts is up to them. Part numbers, years, models, measurements, and side by side comparisons would be very useful. (edit: the first question these technicians asked when I asked about putting 240z R&P in a Subaru r180 was what I asked in my first post. They are not parts experts across manufacturers, but people working in Subaru service stations. They know how to do it but know whether parts will swap.)

Because I have access to parts as well as technicians, and one does not learn without trying. in other news, I stumbled upon this list of part numbers for ring & pinion gears, which I have not yet verified: 38100-U3000.... 3.364 38100-U3100.... 3.545 38100-U3200.... 3.70 38100-U3300.... 3.889 38100-U3400.... 4.11.... used on front of '83- 720 and rears of CA20E S12s. 38100-U3500.... 4.375 38100-U3600.... 4.625

I understand that the gears come as a set and that the gear teeth have their own face profiles from one manufacturer to the next, but what I’m really looking to know is if r180 is a standard of some sort that allows for interchangeability. Can one put a gear set for a WRX on a Nissan or vice versa. There are many more intermediate ratios available to us if so.

Does anyone know if the ring & pinion in an R180 are universal to all r180s? I've dug around but don't see this specific topic covered anywhere; not in this forum, not in the internet generally. What I mean is, can you use the gears from a Nissan r180 in a Subaru r180 and vice versa? I know that the case inside the differential housing often has model specific attributes, which is why you need the special half-shaft adapters to use a Subaru differential in a Z car, but are the ring and pinion gears universal from one to the next? Even more specifically, are the pinions all the same throughout these differentials and the ring (or crown) gear is what is changing the gear ratio? Is the bolt pattern on every ring gear for an r180 the same? The reason I am wondering is I want to understand if you can just go get the ring gear from any r180 that has the number of teeth you want and bolt it into your differential. That would make life a LOT easier when it comes to getting the ideal final drive for your needs.

Thanks! Just seeing where the pipes go through the firewall totally changed my perspective on this. I’m thinking I will be making my own SS lines that mimic the routing of the copper one, but I may to that on the interior as well. I might also to it with the heater lines inside the cabin to allow for tighter cornering around the Vintage Air evaporator.

I think you’re right. I would rather have the split one (15415) so the pipes tuck up better, but I don’t want to order it and find out it doesn’t line up with the twin pipe indentations on the r180 crossmember.

This is the information Fujitsubo has listed on their product description for the EPU system: Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15413 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019149 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Outlet shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diamet er - EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 Product Name - EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (Legalis) Item Number - 050-15415 Price Price - ¥313,500 (Base price: ¥285,000) JAN Code - 4944997019156 Supported model application - S30 Fairlady Z 2 Seater Body Type - S30 (2 Seater only, Manual Transmission vehicles only) Engine type - L20 Year - 1969.11 - 1975.9 Special Notes: Compatible with low-down [lowered] vehicles It is a set of EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions). It is not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts. Common to Solex, Weber Cab, and SU Cab Genuine SU cab car * Heat shielding required It cannot be installed in a car equipped with a genuine air cleaner box. Specifications: Model Type - R200 Diff compatible model Outlet Shape Tailip Style - φ50.8 slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter Pipe Diameter EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual List of Fitting Parts 080-35098 Plate Gasket Plate Gasket x 3 M8 x 35mm Bolt x 9 12 M8 spring washers M8 Nut x 12 M8 x 25mm Bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 exclusive metal fittings (band type φ50.8) x 3 Dedicated bracket for S30 [A] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [B] x 1 Dedicated bracket for S30 [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel wire (l250) x 2 --- This is what I found on JDM Car Parts: Part number: #15-510-15418 Fujitsubo EPU Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust System for Datsun 240Z / Nissan Fairlady Z S30 L6 Engine L6 L20-L28 Engine Headers: 6-2 Type / 45mm at 6 and 50.8mm at 2 Exhaust pipe: 45 mm to 50.8 mm 50.8 mm at Straight section This system is for triple carburetor set up Designed to work with lowered suspension set up. Works with RHD / LHD car Works with R200 Differential set up Comes with insert for O2 Sensor set up (O2 sensor is not included) Caution: It does not come with manifold gasket (Stock manifold gasket works with this headers) Caution: Exhaust hangers are Not included. You need to use stock hangers --- This is what I found on RHD: Fairlady Z S30 GS30 HS30 2-Seater Part Num: 050-15415 Series: Exh Performance Unit EPU Legalis Material: Stainless Steel (SUS304) Tip Type: Slash (W Vertical) Tip Diameter (mm): 50.8 X 2 Pipe Diameter (mm): 50.8 --- This is what I found on Blackhawk Japan: Series Name: EXH PERFORMANCE UNIT (LEGALIS) Product Number - 050-15415 Compatible Car - FAIRLADY Z 2-SEATER S30 Product Description Body model: -S30 Engine model: L20 Year: S44.11 to S50.9 (1969.11 to 1975.9) Tailtip Style: φ50.8 Slash (W, vertical) Pipe Diameter : EX: φ45.0-50.8, Muffler: φ50.8 Dual Fitting Parts: 080-35098 Plate Gasket × 3 M8 × 35mm Bolt × 9 M8 Spring Washer × 12 M8 nut x 12 M8 x 25mm bolt x 3 M8 plate washer (small) x 9 S30 dedicated metal fitting (band type φ50.8) x 3 S30 dedicated bracket [A] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [B] x 1 S30 dedicated bracket [C] x 1 Insulation mat (80 x 100) x 1 Stainless steel Wire (l250) x 2 Peak Power: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 95dB Peak Torque: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 92dB Proximity Exhaust Noise: Standard (STD): -dB FUJITSUBO: 89dB Remarks Safety standard compliant product 2-seater only MT car only Low-down car compatible R200 differential compatible EX manifold + muffler (4 divisions) set product Not compatible with genuine and other exhaust parts Common to Solex, Weber cab, and SU cab vehicles Genuine SU cab vehicles Heat shield shield required Vehicles with genuine air cleaner box cannot be installed Notes: Images are for illustration purpose only. Actual product may vary. --- So it looks like 15413 is for an r180 differential and 15415 is for an r200 differential, but the information is so inconsistent from one retailer to another that I am not sure about any of it. I don't know if 15418 is a typo or what. I see exhaust hangers in the illustration and think that's what the brackets in the parts inventories are, but who knows. Another thing I am finding is HUGE swings in price, from $1,404.46 to $3,299.00, and that is just within the EPU versions. I reached out to JDM Car Parts but he hasn't responded yet. I have also reached out to Fujitsubo and Greenline Motorsports. Maybe one of them will respond.

Yes! Super helpful. I found a set of copper lines and a dryer on eBay and was thinking of using them for a vintage air setup, but couldn’t see how they went on. Not sure if I’m going that route or not because I’m concerned about leaks, but at least now I know where the lines go.

It’s a full system, so part numbers include the header. I found three: 15413 15415 15418

RTV seems to do the trick. unrelated… Does anyone know of a build thread with really good pictures of the original copper 280z air conditioning lines and hoses? I want to see how those were routed and where they went through the firewall so I can approximate that with my setup. I haven’t been able to find a diagram that show the actual routing.

Doesn’t look like Streeter Corp can help with the details, although I will probably still order through them. Here’s what they said about my questions: As we operate wholesale with the manufacturers we can't really be digging into deep info about particulars, that's not the kind of retail service we provide to you or them to us. These were my questions: 1. I can tell the EPU is a full system, but I can’t tell if the header is the same as the Super Ex or if it has also been updated. 2. I see that the EPU version can accommodate an r200 differential, but does it still work with a r180 and the factory cross member that has indents for a twin pipe exhaust? 3. I saw one website saying the EPU version has an O2 sensor, but I wasn’t sure where it is. Is it on the header or the y-pipe? 4a. Is the EPU system a bolt in setup in a left hand drive car, or is there going to be a clearance issue with the steering shaft hitting the header? 4b. Related to this, are all of the hanger brackets welded on already? 5. Are there any other changes to the EPU over the Legalis r / super ex that explain the price increase over the older setup?

I know this thread is old… and, um, tense… but it’s also the best resource for info on the Fujitsubo 240z systems on the internet… if you dig through it. So I’m posting an update in case people weren’t aware: Fujitsubo have a new new version of the Legalis R on the market. It is the EXH Performance EPU version (15-15415) and from what I can tell it’s updates are an O2 sensor and rerouting the pipes at the rear of the car to split before and wrap around the dif. So that make three versions you can buy online right now: The original with the fatter resonator: The updated one with tucked up adjacent pipes: And this one with the split: It also looks like it only comes as a total system packaged with the Super Ex header. There are many things I’m not clear on, though. The split in the pipes accommodates an r200, but does that mean it doesn’t align with the depressions for the twin pipes on a stock r180 differential mount? We’re there changes made to the Super Ex that helped achieve their supposed performance gains (this is supposed to improve performance over the 2nd version)? Does everything fit nicely on a LHD car, as compared to either of the previous versions)? I reached out to Fujitsubo via Instagram for details but doubt I will hear anything. The retailers can’t answer these questions either.

I've started to redraw my wiring diagram. To give you an idea of how I am changing it from what we have on the site now, here's the fuse box from the original followed by the one I redrew. I wish I could say this will be useful for everyone, but I will be deleting and adding a bunch of components, so it's utility for other people will be limited. Diagram: Sample:

I plan to use LEDs but I want to wire the car so that I don’t HAVE to use LEDs, particularly for the headlights. My thoughts on having 14 AWG be my smallest wire was coming from a few things: First, the amount of fried wiring I found. It’s possible the heat came from outside but in places like under the dash I don’t know what would cause that, so I was assuming that it was overload on the wiring. Second, the general use of 10-amp fuses for everything that wasn’t one of the fatter wires, plus the gauge charts I’ve been using. However, I suspect the dash maybe could come down a notch for all the instruments and save me some headaches with fitting all that stuff in there. Third, just eyeballing stuff looks like a lot of 14 AWG. Maybe I’m off base and It's smaller than that. Tough to tell since it's actually Japanese (square millimeter?) wire and not AWG. need to go back over it more carefully. I would love to plug all the numbers for everything in the car into a calculator, but I just don’t know where to find that information.

I did a quick tally of which wires need to be which gauge and this is what I ended up with: Components Gauge Wire Color Starter Ground, Combination Switch 10 Black Black w/ White Fuel Pump Green Headlights Red w/ White Starter, Ammeter White Alternator, Ammeter White w/ Red 12 Black w/ White Ignition Switch Black w/ Yellow Ignition Switch Green w/ White Headlights, Combination Switch Red Rear Glass Defroster Red w/ Black Light & Horn Switch Red w/ White Headlights Red w/ Yellow Fuse Box White Ignition Switch, Combination Switch White w/ Red All others would be 14 AWG. There may be some 16 or 18 AWG in the car originally, but I don't see a reason to go that light. Please let me know if you think I have any errors here. I'm also wondering if it would be worthwhile to step everything up one level, or if that would be a waste of money and weight.

Question about the black goop inside the frames for my rear quarter panels: what is it? I was thinking RTV or body caulk. It doesn’t seem like it’s weatherstrip adhesive. I want to be able to replicate this after I clean all my parts up.

I received the last of the parts I ordered for the 5-speed overhaul on Sunday this past weekend, so three weeks total wait time. Not bad considering one of the bearings was lost in transit to Courtesy Parts and had to be ordered again. Not as fast as ordering a quest kit, but I went above and beyond what's available in those, plus it's all OEM.

Side Project: I was able to find Nissan OEM versions of everything I need to overhaul the five speed. Luckily, I don’t need synchros, although you can still get them OEM from Courtesy Parts and the handful of Nissan dealers I called. I had to use a handful of places to get all of these, and I’m not 100% certain two of these are OEM despite reassurances from the retailer, but it wasn’t difficult to get it all in hand. Maybe 30 minutes on Google. I dropped these off at the transmission shop yesterday. I have no idea how long it is going to take for him to get it done, but I’m hoping to have it back by the end of September. Here's my parts list: - 1x Main Input Shaft Bearing (PN 32273-N4800) - 1x Main Input Shaft Bearing, Adapter Plate (PN 32273-36900) - 1x Main Input Shaft Bearing, Extension Housing (PN 32203-14360) - 1x Pilot Bearing, Input / Output Shafts (PN 32272-36910) - 3x Needle Bearing, Main Shaft Gears (PN 32264-14601) - 1x Counter Shaft Bearing, Front (PN 32219-E9020) - 1x Counter Shaft Bearing, Adapter (PN 32203-E9800) - 1x Counter Shaft Bearing, Rear (PN 32319-N4870) - 1x Reverse Idler Gear Bearing (PN 32272-36910) - 1x Front Cover Gasket (PN 32112-08U01) - 1x Oil Gutter (PN 32137-E9000) - 1x Front Seal (PN 32114-Y4000) - 1x Rear Extension Seal (PN 32136-U010A) - 3x Checking Spring (32830-20100)