Matthew Abate

Have you finished the fuel return line charge yet? I’m curious to see how that turned out, as I am considering several of the same mods you’re doing. I have seen people use 280z gas tanks to solve for this, but I’m thinking the vapor tank suggestion made earlier is a great one. Incidentally, I know the vapor smell getting into your house was a consideration for all of this. I’m thinking of using a II Much vapor canister in place of the OEM one in my ‘73. Something like that may help with options for getting that return to work.

Awesome! That’s what I like to hear. I don’t suppose you can put any numbers on it. Any chance you have a link to dyno charts for comparison? Regarding cam sensor, I had read somewhere (Duffy’s thread?) that the crank sensor doesn’t tell you which of the strokes you are on, so pairing the two gives you that plus accuracy. I’m paraphrasing big time here.

Thanks @Zed Head I’ll get those edits in. If everyone else could make recommendations on components or provide links to how-tos or instructions I would appreciate it. I’m starting to dig into Hybridz right now and plan to transpose what I find into the above post.

I am also in the beginning stages of doing this research and was planning to do some sort of write up on it. I just reached out to Wheee! and have been digging through Duffy’s thread to get started. I think this thread is as good a place to compile notes as any. This is what I have gathered, plus contributions by @Zed Head, @duffymahoney, @wheee!, and @madkaw (please suggest edits as appropriate): Benefits Better Performance? - Yes, in the form of hotter spark, less chance of misfire, more efficient combustion, and better emissions Better power? - Maybe. Full control of timing in any load situation is a far and above the compromise of a dizzy - however it might be recurved. Lower cost? - Not initially, but parts are easier to find that the original setup once a system is in place. Tunable? - Yes. Programmable ignition curves allow you to optimize for power and efficiency. Required Components Coils (6) Spark Plugs (6) Coil Bracket Camshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Crankshaft Triggering Device / Position Sensor / Angle Sensor Ignition Control Unit / Module Battery Wiring Harness Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Tachometer Signal Converter Considerations Cost - Is the cost of the system worth the benefits for your car vs OEM parts or other options? Availability - Can you find replacement components to get your build finished and keep it working? Difficulty - Will you need to have help getting it installed, tuned, and keep it working? Appearance - Which of each component is right for your build style? Heat - How will heat be managed to ensure proper function and longevity? Positioning - How will you route the wiring through firewall and what mounting points will work for each component? Accessories - Will you be running AC, the headlight relay harness, non-original alternator, other hard-wired electronics, etc.? Glossary Smart Coils (from AEM Performance Electronics) “Smart” Inductive Coils are designed for use on applications that do not have an external igniter. Wasted Spark (from Wikipedia) In a wasted spark system, the spark plugs fire in pairs, with one plug in a cylinder on its compression stroke and the other plug in a cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The extra spark during the exhaust stroke has no effect and is thus "wasted". This design halves the number of components necessary in a typical ignition system, while the extra spark, against much reduced dielectric resistance, barely impacts the lifespan of modern ignition components. In a typical engine, it requires only about 2–3 kV to fire the cylinder on its exhaust stroke. The remaining coil energy is available to fire the spark plug in the cylinder on its compression stroke (typically about 8 to 12 kV). “If you're running a wasted spark system, you don't need cam sensor. Two pistons will be approaching TDC at the same time. Of the pair, one of the rising pistons is approaching TDC on it's compression stroke, and the other one is approaching TDC on it's exhaust stroke. A cam sensor would allow you to differentiate between those two, but if you're running a wasted spark system, you don't care... Just spark both of them at the same time. If you had a cam sensor, you could spark just the cylinder on it's compression stroke alone without "wasting" a spark on the other cylinder.” - Captain Obvious COMPONENTS: COILS ACDelco D585 Nissan R35 COMPONENTS: COIL BRACKETS Blake Machine Co. http://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/datsun_coil_on_plug_brackets_6__4_cylinder List of Options for Crank and Cam Position Sensors @ Hybrids -https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/126710-list-of-options-for-crank-and-cam-position-sensors/ COMPONENTS: CAMSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR Jeep 4.0 CAS in stock distributor location https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125904-jeep-cam-angle-sensor-for-l-series/ 1998 Nissan Quest (PN: 22100-P8500) https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58568-duffys-171-series-1-240z-build/?page=19&tab=comments#comment-582356 COMPONENTS: CRANKSHAFT ANGLE SENSOR 1982-83 280ZXT distributor with DIYautotune wheel XXX Austin Hoke Bolt-in-Kit http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-crank-angle-sensor https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/l-series-crank-angle-sensor-kit BJH Dynamics / Robello Racing XXX Damper-mounted universal or OEM trigger wheel XXX Flywheel Hall Sensor XXX Top End Performance Trigger Wheel fab Service XXX COMPONENTS: ECU Crane: Electromotive: Haltech: https://www.haltech.com/ MSD: Megajolt: https://www.autosportlabs.com/the-new-megajolte-mk2-is-here/ https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-edis-installation.html https://trigger-wheels.com/store/contents/en-uk/p72.html

Precisely, which is why I’m eyeballing the harada. one thing I’m wondering about these Mangoletsis is why all the extra casting? Is that a balance tube going between the inlets or just reinforcement. Here is the manufacturer’s site: http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/datsun.html There sure is some big talk in the brochure!

I just stumbled upon a site offering Mangoletsi triple side-draft manifolds. I had never hear of them before. This thread Lists all of the ones I had ever seen mentioned and then some, and they don’t show up here either. There are only two mentions of Mangoletsi on this site, and nothing very informative. Any opinions? —- and while I have your attention, is there anything wrong with the Harada manifolds? They seem readily available and relatively low price.

Ran into a jam. I have a box for a left-side Moog outer tie rod end (ES2110r) that has a right-side TRE (ES2109r) in it. Trying to figure out if this is a packaging error or if they don’t make reverse-threaded ones anymore. The reason this is an issue NOW is if I can’t get a reverse-treaded OTRE then I can’t use the adjustable, properly-threaded ITREs that came on the car. In that case I will have to use the crimped-together ones I got from Nissan and will have a goofy time doing the alignment. Otherwise, it’s not an issue, because I have all of that stuff on hand. I just need an answer from Moog as to whether the box had the wrong part or they don’t do reverse threads on their left OTREs (in which case why have a different part number?).

Got about half way this evening. Had to stop because I don’t have a 38mm socket for the torque wrench. I’m maybe a tiny bit concerned I have the pinion one tooth off from pointing straight up at dead center, but I think it’s right.

Status: I’m waiting for zerk fittings to come in the mail. Then reassembly.

I don’t think they are damaged, but they don’t lay flat, which is what had me thinking I should replace them.

Okay, gonna ask a noob question, but better to ask that blow it: I’ve been looking but can’t find a new part number for the two snap rings that is cross referenced to the old part numbers (48265-78500 & 48271-78500). How did you solve this problem? Is this something I can just measure and buy from Napa or something? Edit: I did find a Nissan part site that had some numbers I’m not familiar with associated with these part numbers: 48265-78500 had T=1.04-1.14, and 48271-78500 had T=1.55-1.60. I am assuming that I can just buy an assorted box of snap rings similar to a box of cotter pins and should be good to go, right?

Mine is a 07 ‘73, so maybe that year? Everything I have matches Patcon’s except the TREs.

Yes, I think the Moogs I got are crimped together. From a quick tug my originals don’t feel like they have any play, but the crimped o es are stiff and tough to move around compared to them, even before I pulled them. It’s possible that they needed adjusting, but I’m ambivalent about whether they are “right.” but no more need to hijack this thread. We should pick this back up in my build thread or CO’s rack thread.

Okay, so this is where I’m at so far with the rack: I used vice grips to clamp a screwdriver in the divot in the pinion. I placed a set of old crappy channel locks on that to be an anvil for a brass hammer and gently tapped it out, pinion pointing down. Everything else was a breeze to take apart. The grease is pretty chunky, but it’s not crusty. I think these are original inner tie rod ends after comparing to other threads, so I’m thinking it’s never been disassembled. Anyone know? Right now everything is sitting in a coat of WD-40 so it does not flash rust after the quick bath I gave it all. I’ll clean it for real later.

I’m considering putting a stealth antenna in my 240z. I have seen a few different ways of doing this but haven’t seen a conclusively recommended way of doing this. i was thinking of running a regular antenna along a frame rake under the car, maybe mounting something up inside the support near the rear hatch somewhere. Mountain one inside the rear hatch off the gas shock mount, or using one of those hidden antennas. However each of these poses a potential problem of interference or poor reception. Does anyone have experience in this area?

Regardless, I’m wondering if the Moog TREs I got are better. Does newer = better in this case, or is it original = better?

All I see is the note on page ST 11: “Check inner ball joint for play. When ball stud is worn and play in axial direction is excessive or joint is hard to swing, replace as complete unit.”

I DID! Thanks. I’m not going to go as far as you did. I’m on the fence right now about using the new inner TREs I have or reusing the old ones. Probably the new ones.

Cool! Any idea when so I can find it?

Yeah, I did that, too. Stuff flew all over the place. Luckily I had it pointing away from me.

Okay, looks like I have the right parts, so I bought the SKF stuff. Now I’m disassembling the rack per the Cap’n’s write up: Just need to figure out if these old inner TREs are rebuildable/reusable.

I’m getting ready to jump into rebuilding my steering rack. Anyone aware of any gotchas I need to look out for before I start? I know there’s a pretty detailed write up on this forum and I plan to dig into that now, but I thought I’d ask just to make sure. —- edit: ive found the piñon bearing (Timken 6003-rs for $24.40, SKF 6003z for $9.30) and a seal (CR6641 for $19.05, SKF6641 for $9.54) that might be right. Just not sure about the seal and don’t want to open it up if I can’t replace it. thoughts?

This happened: This is all single stage. The exterior will be two stage.

No. Interested?

Yes, 918. It looks great, I just hadn’t seen it up close in real life. I’ve only seen one 918 Z in my life and it was 200ft away going the opposite direction on an interstate. I'm stoked for it, but I was a bit surprised by it. The photos you find online are no way to tell, and it wasn’t the original orange when I bought it. I held this photo (found somewhere on this site) up to the samples and they were really close: