Matthew Abate

Ran into a jam. I have a box for a left-side Moog outer tie rod end (ES2110r) that has a right-side TRE (ES2109r) in it. Trying to figure out if this is a packaging error or if they don’t make reverse-threaded ones anymore. The reason this is an issue NOW is if I can’t get a reverse-treaded OTRE then I can’t use the adjustable, properly-threaded ITREs that came on the car. In that case I will have to use the crimped-together ones I got from Nissan and will have a goofy time doing the alignment. Otherwise, it’s not an issue, because I have all of that stuff on hand. I just need an answer from Moog as to whether the box had the wrong part or they don’t do reverse threads on their left OTREs (in which case why have a different part number?).

Got about half way this evening. Had to stop because I don’t have a 38mm socket for the torque wrench. I’m maybe a tiny bit concerned I have the pinion one tooth off from pointing straight up at dead center, but I think it’s right.

Status: I’m waiting for zerk fittings to come in the mail. Then reassembly.

I don’t think they are damaged, but they don’t lay flat, which is what had me thinking I should replace them.

Okay, gonna ask a noob question, but better to ask that blow it: I’ve been looking but can’t find a new part number for the two snap rings that is cross referenced to the old part numbers (48265-78500 & 48271-78500). How did you solve this problem? Is this something I can just measure and buy from Napa or something? Edit: I did find a Nissan part site that had some numbers I’m not familiar with associated with these part numbers: 48265-78500 had T=1.04-1.14, and 48271-78500 had T=1.55-1.60. I am assuming that I can just buy an assorted box of snap rings similar to a box of cotter pins and should be good to go, right?

Mine is a 07 ‘73, so maybe that year? Everything I have matches Patcon’s except the TREs.

Yes, I think the Moogs I got are crimped together. From a quick tug my originals don’t feel like they have any play, but the crimped o es are stiff and tough to move around compared to them, even before I pulled them. It’s possible that they needed adjusting, but I’m ambivalent about whether they are “right.” but no more need to hijack this thread. We should pick this back up in my build thread or CO’s rack thread.

Okay, so this is where I’m at so far with the rack: I used vice grips to clamp a screwdriver in the divot in the pinion. I placed a set of old crappy channel locks on that to be an anvil for a brass hammer and gently tapped it out, pinion pointing down. Everything else was a breeze to take apart. The grease is pretty chunky, but it’s not crusty. I think these are original inner tie rod ends after comparing to other threads, so I’m thinking it’s never been disassembled. Anyone know? Right now everything is sitting in a coat of WD-40 so it does not flash rust after the quick bath I gave it all. I’ll clean it for real later.

I’m considering putting a stealth antenna in my 240z. I have seen a few different ways of doing this but haven’t seen a conclusively recommended way of doing this. i was thinking of running a regular antenna along a frame rake under the car, maybe mounting something up inside the support near the rear hatch somewhere. Mountain one inside the rear hatch off the gas shock mount, or using one of those hidden antennas. However each of these poses a potential problem of interference or poor reception. Does anyone have experience in this area?

Regardless, I’m wondering if the Moog TREs I got are better. Does newer = better in this case, or is it original = better?

All I see is the note on page ST 11: “Check inner ball joint for play. When ball stud is worn and play in axial direction is excessive or joint is hard to swing, replace as complete unit.”

I DID! Thanks. I’m not going to go as far as you did. I’m on the fence right now about using the new inner TREs I have or reusing the old ones. Probably the new ones.

Cool! Any idea when so I can find it?

Yeah, I did that, too. Stuff flew all over the place. Luckily I had it pointing away from me.

Okay, looks like I have the right parts, so I bought the SKF stuff. Now I’m disassembling the rack per the Cap’n’s write up: Just need to figure out if these old inner TREs are rebuildable/reusable.

I’m getting ready to jump into rebuilding my steering rack. Anyone aware of any gotchas I need to look out for before I start? I know there’s a pretty detailed write up on this forum and I plan to dig into that now, but I thought I’d ask just to make sure. —- edit: ive found the piñon bearing (Timken 6003-rs for $24.40, SKF 6003z for $9.30) and a seal (CR6641 for $19.05, SKF6641 for $9.54) that might be right. Just not sure about the seal and don’t want to open it up if I can’t replace it. thoughts?

This happened: This is all single stage. The exterior will be two stage.

No. Interested?

Yes, 918. It looks great, I just hadn’t seen it up close in real life. I’ve only seen one 918 Z in my life and it was 200ft away going the opposite direction on an interstate. I'm stoked for it, but I was a bit surprised by it. The photos you find online are no way to tell, and it wasn’t the original orange when I bought it. I held this photo (found somewhere on this site) up to the samples and they were really close:

Done. Mogul Gear 300 75w90. Bolts triple checked for torque. New gaskets, new everything except the case, bearings, and gears. No leaks. I had to scrap the old cover because the mating surface was shot from sitting in. Yard for years. Luckily the case is fine, and a new cover and gasket solved the problem.

Looks like we’re within specifications (.1 to .2 mm)! Time to close it up and call this p.i.t.a. done.

Just took at look at the paint samples my painter laid down yesterday. They look GREAT! That orange is browner than I thought, but it matches the photos and samples I have. I forgot to take pictures, but I’ll see if I can get him to send me some.

Something I’ve always wondered about these is what to do about the emblem holes in the hatch. Is there one where the topmost one isn’t still visible?

Bump

View Advert 1973 240z Hood - Needs Work This hood is original to my 1973 240z. It has a crease on the left edge and needs some bodywork to smooth out some impressions. It was stripped and primed professionally for storage. A skilled body worker should be able to get this back to great condition. I’m open to offers, but need you to pick it up in NJ (07040). Shipping these is a major hassle. See the photos for details. Advertiser Matthew Abate Date 06/29/2019 Price $250.00 Category Parts for Sale