Matthew Abate

Quick update:

It did the job... Got five long days worth of work out of it before it was unusable for its original purpose, between blasting the body and the suspension. Cost me $80 on eBay.

Did this yesterday: Time to toss this tent. Done with the blaster, too, I think, but I'll hold onto it for a minute just in case.

Payment sent. PayPal should give you my address, but I'll email it to you just in case. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I think the picture I sent you is of one from a subaru. I think the one you have is what I want if it mates to a stock driveshaft. How much for the whole lot and shipping? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Do you have a plug for that bottom hole? Also, any chance you have the flange that goes on the front and allows the driveshaft to connect? I'm talking about this: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DyZu3deEqvw/UscFs2zm6TI/AAAAAAAAI3w/AHy5E4zd_fA/s1600/IMG_0644.JPG Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Please let me know how much and send some pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Seems like it.

Looking for a complete Datsun r180 differential real cover with all the studs and everything in good condition. DM me with a price shipped to NJ 07040, please.

I might take you up on this.

I understand how it works. There are three configurations in play here, and I think that my not distinguishing between the two TechnoVersion options creates confusion. I'm getting at whether the urethane mount pictured above makes a significant increase to transferred vibration over the factory setup. The fact that it's urethan means it will be more. Whether it's significant is another story. I'm getting one of these, but the answer to the question will dictate whether I keep the OEM mount and use the conical insulator or go with the red urethan top mount and lose the OEM one.

I know I am digging up a 5-year-old threat, but I can't find the answer to the question granny knot asked right before the thread died. I am speculating that trimming the conical insulator to be just short of touching the differential (as TechnoVersion mentions on their site) might be the solution to this, but I haven't seen anyone explicitly say that anywhere.

Okay, this is awesome. My next two questions are: Where do we source parts? From what I can tell, the only things you can replace are the boots (OEM or aftermarket), pinion bearing (SKF 6003-2rs1 / Koyo 6003rs), and the seal (SKF 6641 / Timken 221735). How do I figure out if I even need to do this. I have the rack out and am refreshing the suspension. I'm replacing the boots and inner tie rod ends (Real Parts RP26575) for posterity. The rack seems like a big project, but I think now is the time to do it. If the parts above are findable, I think I can pull this off (if I have someone pull and press the bearing for me), but I'm hesitating.

I know this is digging up an old thread, but I was hoping to use this thread as a guide to rebuild my rack. Is there any chance I can get my hands on the photos or the OP can fix them?

I've heard/read this, and where OEM is nla I'm going with them, but I'm really curious about them vs OEM. Some people say nothing beats OEM, but even where that is true, is OEM worth the money. For example, I'm leaning toward Moog ball joints because OEM costs five times as much, so I could replace them four times and still save money. Obviously there's a time factor there, but is OEM justifiably more expensive or just more expensive. Also, is there a time when OEM is actually inferior? --- I guess I should also add that I'm not just trying to save money. I'm trying to not waste money and get the best parts available for my application. That's one reason I'm not considering Heim joints. Yeah they're high performance for a race, but I'm not going to inspect/replace them every time I take the car out like the racers do (should). So if Moog is going to last as long as OEM I'll get them.

I'm beginning my suspension refresh and have been gathering parts as I disassemble everything.as I do research I'm finding that there seem to be two camps on where to source parts: OEM due Garda and OEM doubters. I'm looking for specific feedback on when to buy OEM over aftermarket and was hoping someone would chime in with examples and information. I get that people are anti-china, but I'm not really seeing any actual data or concrete information on which parts are superior. So let's start: BALL JOINTS OEM ball joints are available from a number of sources, but I've had some professional mechanics tell me to go with Moog and spend 1/5th of the OEM price. TIE ROD ENDS There aren't any OEM OTREs anywhere, but is there a brand other than Moog worth looking into? The ITREs are only available made by Rare Parts. BEARINGS you can get OEM here too, but those same mechanics have told me to go with Timken. At roughly 1/8th the price I'm very tempted. BELLOWS (strut & rack) OEM is available but the snap rings and bump stops that make them attach correctly seem not to be. I haven't seen good feedback on aftermarket strut bellows and haven't investigated the ones for the rack. SWAY BAR END LINKS Not sure they're actual OEM or OEM-style, but from what I've read if you upgrade your sway bar you have to go with end links that don't have the inner washers welded on because they will break. There's a pretty wide range of aftermaket options here. I'd love to hear people's actual experience with the performance of aftermarket stuff against OEM. Has anyone done any head to head comparisons (racers)? Anything else, please add it.

$300 for a 280z. Closer to $400 for the 240z, unless you found a place I haven't seen. Mike, do you have a thread going where you show how to rebuild a rack?

Just got a response from ZCD. They said their ITREs are made by A1 Cardone Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Waiting for a reply. The ones from T3 also found on Amazon are made by "Rare Parts" which sounds sketchy AF to me.

If the ones at Z Car Depot were OEM or Moog I would agree, but we don't know who makes them so what are we being sure of?

I was wondering about those inner ends. I see they are on Amazon too for around $90 each. Not bad! (Edit: 240z racks there are $347 - http://www.carsteering.com/addtocart/1973_Nissan/240Z/Manual_Steering_Rack/80-70090.html) I keep seeing places say that the ZX inner TREs work on Zs, but that can't be right. They look totally different (https://zcardepot.com/tie-rod-end-inner.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsNfOBRCWARIsAGITapav6ihEQy_Zt8wIeCAtvXUYBShoFOken7iHYZfG6FZiOdqNRCIFvVMaAlgkEALw_wcB). Anyone know for sure, because you can get them for $18.

Stock driver's side is reverse threaded. Nissan doesn't make left side parts any more. I am currently looking into where to get inner and outer tie rod ends and the only place I'm seeing the inners is Z Car Depot, and I have no idea who makes them. I do know they aren't OEM. If anyone has another source, please let me know. Another option is getting a remanufactured steering rack, but I don't know if those would be reverse threaded on the driver's side. I'll post when I have more information. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

240zs had nothing as far as I can tell. Looks like Courtesy has the bellow/dust cover (54055-n3700) for $48, but the snap ring (54057-n3700) is discontinued. Also, MSA says 2 required per car, but also that they're sold individually, which should mean 4 per car. Curious.

I would have thought the 280z travels less because the insulator is thicker, but now that I think of it that doesn't necessarily mean anything. MSA shows the Nissan bellows in stock for $60 each. I don't know. Is this a waste of money or good insurance?

Pretty much ready to media blast. Just need to mask the sensitive bits and pull a few more bolts off.