Matthew Abate

FYI: 22% off Stainless Steel Bolt kits at Z Car Depot, today only with promotion code SS22. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a handful of parts that I got with my car that were loose when it showed up. Can anyone identify them for me so I can install/replace them? See below:

More random parts off the car.

Didn't see that in any of the threads I read, but makes 100% sense. CHEMISTRY! Im confident the acetone got it all, though. It came out clear the second time and I gave it another one to be sure.

I learned something this weekend: After setting up all the chemicals I bout for this gas tank restoration, I have determined that a) the Por-15 reconditioning kit doesn't work, muriatic acid is scary, c) either the water in my neighborhood is too hard or rinsing with water is stupid, and d) you only need three things to do the inside of your tank. I tried all kinds of combinations of stuff, but everything said to use hot water to flush the tank, and that cause instantaneous flash rusting. I also learned that every piece of protective gear I've ever bought leaves this spot on my neck exposed: So after three tries I finally found the holy grail of steps to get this done: one pint of muriatic acid for three minutes will totally clean the interior of your tank, then rinse it with a pint of acetone, then another pint of acetone, and then another pint of acetone, and finally one can of Red Kote. The key thing here is that acetone is 100% compatible with Red Kote so you don't have to dry it out. This makes the sealing process take approximately 30 minutes. Follow the instructions on the RK can and you're done. The do the outside in Por-15 and put it into the car (or storage like me).

I found something called "user friendly muriatic acid" at a Home Depot 40 minutes outside of my county. It contains hydrochloride acid, but it think it's heavily diluted compared to the normal stuff because of the claims on the label. We'll see if it does anything. Edit: Got a gallon. Picked up some sodium hydroxide to neutralize it. We'll find out next week how it works.

I haven't found a pool supply store that carries it yet. I found industrial wholesale suppliers, but no retailers.

Okay, I'm going to revive this topic because muriatic acid is no longer available for retail purchase in New Jersey, as far as I can tell. I can't find it anywhere. I have the Por 15 kit and plan to run through that process next weekend, but I am not certain that it will be enough and would have liked to have done the muriatic acid proves first. I also need to wait for the red kote to come in the mail because I can't find that either. So this leaves me with two questions: Can anyone tell me where I can buy muriatic acid in NJ or online? I've seen it but the shipping for a gallon is $80. Can anyone tell me an alternative to muriatic acid that is equally effective and available in my area?

Yeah, I remember that crash you told me about when I first joined the forum. I almost went with a light flywheel, but I was concerned with the lack of inertia at red lights and bogging down the engine. I suppose I could walk that decision back, but I'm not sure I want to ATM. Edit: not sure if you remember, but the five speed I have is out of a 720 truck and has the same first through fourth as my stock 240z four speed. I am seriously considering going with a quaif to get the LSD rather than an r200 in order to keep the 3.54 ratio I have in the car now. I think I'm the end after modification parts the price is only a couple hundred bucks more. I don't know. We'll see how it is when I drive it for the first time.

Thanks. I'm pretty stoked about it. The only thing I wonder (and this is a tiny, infinitessimally small little bit of hesitation) is if a 240 crank might have been more fun. I know it would be less less power and less torque, but I've read all over that people love the revvy L24 character. I know Diseazed has two engines that are near identical except the crank and I remember him saying something to this effect. However, since I never drove this car I have nothing to compare it to, so it will be what it will be.

My strategy (if you can call it that) with the engine is to put the money here, because this is the thing I can't really fix myself. The rest of the car isn't really an issue for me when it comes to doing the work, but I want to make this engine as bullet proof as possible because it's way outside my wheelhouse, so I'm not skimping. The machinist we're working with has a few decades of L-series experience so I'm pretty confident we'll reach that goal. Will it be the most powerful L28 ever built? No, but I'm confident it will be more reliable that my 2009 Subaru Forester's engine.

Subscribed! I'll be doing this in the summer, so I'll consider this the instructions. Regarding powder coat vs pain, I've been advised equally on both. I'm leaning toward epoxy paint because it is repairable whereas powder coat can't be patched if it gets chipped.

This makes me feel good about what I paid for my 73 Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If a shell is what you're after, I know a 280 shell with a caved in roof you can probably get for free. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

It's only a $4,400 car if it actually sells. You can beat this deal on eBay, let alone digging harder.

A quick post showing some more of our parts inventory. This is some of the stuff I pulled off of the L24 that the car came with, as well as some of the things I've mentioned previously. These will get cleaned, evaluated, and boxed for later. ^ Needs replacing. Gonna try to avoid buying any more parts before mid-March, so we'll focus on what we have going for now.

Dude, you win me over more every time you post. We'll see what I end up wanting in a year when I'm ready, but if I had to pull the trigger right this second it would be hard to justify not going with your product. So I guess i'll see what happens with this system and look into the above comment about single vs twin pipe performance. Anyone have any release timing for the new Fujitsubo system? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Nice. The USBs will be for phone charging and maybe a Sat Nav. The one thing I forgot was some kind of power supply for a Bluetooth speaker system, which will be identified after the car is nearly done (think Bose Soundlink mini or similar). I'm planning to leave the stock stereo system and replace it with the JDM box that fits in the center of the dash. I'm probably digging into this before I'm ready, but it's on my mind because the alternators I have are not in great shape and the engine rebuild is progressing. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I'll take it slowly and reach out as I progress. Excellent discussion, guys. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Man, I almost feel like building a harness from scratch is the way to go regardless of whether or not mine is any good, which is something I wasn't going to look into until the car is getting painted.

I wasn't aware of this problem. I had assumed they were distributing for Sean rather than replicating his work. Is there a thread where this is being discussed so we don't highjack this one? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

By the way Sean, I saw that we can get your system at Z Car Depot. Is that the best way to order it, or are you taking orders directly? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

The current Fujitsubo system can be had for $1,329.56 plus shipping at RHD. I have not found DEFINITIVE proof but I have read that at least two other people have the full system in their cars and the header is fine for LHD, as above. I'm looking at both of the Fujitsubo systems, Sean's, and the GReddy Trust header if I can figure out what to put behind it. We'll see, but this was all great info to pile into the heap. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Okay, so what I'm getting from this is a headlight upgrade, fog lights, two USB plugs, the engine, the dash lights, the heater fan, seat heaters, and LED marker and tail lights, and the interior light *might* be too much for the ZX alternator upgrade and I should look into the capacity of my wiring harness. But the one I started this thread with is probably overkill.

Thanks, but I just bought him one so we're good to go.