Matthew Abate

Did this this week. There are plenty of write-ups on this subject so I'll just keep it to photos. And a shot of some of the nice burns I got from the one place I didn't have well protected during upside down welding:

The photographs make them look crazy long. I haven't decided if I'm going to buy or make one yet, but this length issue will probably determine that Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I can't find any information about how much additional length a rotisserie (of any brand) adds to the length of the car. I have a fairly short garage with a workbench on one end, so I need it to be less than 22' to work, and that's with no room to walk around it. Does anyone have one mounted up that they could measure for me?

That and the domes for the CR I wanted. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wonder where the ad about the guy not waiting for you to help him with his flat is? Definitely go into every situation assuming you need a gun. Good idea.

About 55ccs Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Update:

The Pistons were designed to fit into a p90 head combustion chamber so that it will yield a compression ratio between 9.8:1 and 9.9:1. I don't have the cam specs readily available, but will share them later. We were going to go with Isky, but after 13 weeks of communication headaches we are going (I think) with Comp Cams.

Forged. Carbs, not turbo. Trial fit looks right on so far.

Update:

Block work has started.

Looks like crap but it's in. Good thing it's not structural and will be covered by carpet. I had forgotten to turn on the gas until half way. Smooth after I realized that, but clearly I need a check list.

How many gallons did you use? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's an interesting thread on lizard skin and sound deadening: http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=933436

Well, looks great so far! I didn't realize the full covers we an actual COVER and not a replacement skin. If I had a million dollars if just send it of to be redone in cynic by professionals, but the quote I got back was $1,700. Can't remember who it was from. I just deleted it out of disgust. Maybe I'll be following in your footsteps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure lizard skin is a heat shield as well. I think it's ceramic. That was the sales pitch anyway. Look into it.

I don't understand why fiberglass would be easier/better than the full dash covers I've seen for sale. Am I underestimating how difficult that job is or is it more that the covers themselves suck? I'm asking mostly because I think I'm going to find myself in a situation where I need to do this too so I'm super curious what the reality of putting one of those on is.

That is super interesting... And might change my plan. I had intended to shoot the entire underside of my car with lizard skin or something similar. I will probably also shoot the inside of the car in all of the places covered by carpet, fabric, or plastic with it as well. It's ceramic chips suspended in some kind of goo that acts as an undercoat as well as sound deadener, but it goes between the paint and the primer. 5 gallons weighs less than a gallon of paint and it has a significant effect. It's 100% not for a factory restoration because of the texture and I'm not sure how much I care about that at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was talking to a paint shop this morning and they asked me how the factory did the underside of the car. Am I right that it was primer, then undercoat, and then they DID NOT paint the underside in the body color? It should just be oversprayed, right? Does this extend to the wheel wells, too? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Madkaw, what's your power and look like? Where does your car really start to pull? Diseazd, I think we'll end up sending him a cam to regrind based on that conversation, so it'll be internally oiled. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

UPDATE: We talked to Ron Iskendarian this afternoon and had a really good talk. - Told him we wanted to stay under .460-inch lift at the valve so that we could use the stock springs, but that we were willing to do the extra work needed if a cam wasn't available. - Let him know we were after a really strong low-end and mid range, and that I didn't want to worry about bogging down off the line in traffic; that I wouldn't be tracking the car but would be in hilly terain on two-lane highways and wanted "spirited" performance; that durring long distance traveling I would be on the freeway. - Told him we were looking for a mild performance hydraulic cam if we could get one but had not found one yet, and that if need be we would use a mechanical but still wanted to stay under .460-inch lift. - Asked for a suggested camshaft to fit our build. Also talked about the build in general, letting him know we were increasing compression and freshening up the top end; that we would use the SU carbs. If we needed more carburetion because of the cam, then I would look at tripple Mikunies on the Harada manifold, suplemented with a good header and free flowing exhaust. He asked about the condition of the cams we have and suggested that, even though I thought they were trashed, he might be able to clean them up. The Hydraulics will be harder to re-grind (he didn't say why) but I might be able to have hydraulic lifters after all. In fact, he suggested using one of the stock cams unless they were all wasted. He thinks that with the increased compression and displacement in the L28, the car will act wonderfully for my purposes with either the mechanical or hydraulic cam. But once he looks at them, he might also be able to regrind the cams to give me a more agressive profile. Depends on the condition of the cams. Cost wise, he told me that it would be more important to make certain the cam towers were in the best condition possible, to prevent variations in the cam timing. That is something I have Our machinist looking into. Ron mentioned, also, that its important to use the stock rockers with any cam because its the rocker that's harder than the cam - even the original Datsun camshaft - and the stock Datsun rockers give the best performance with the least wear to the cam/rocker surfaces, regardless of the cam I buy. He was glad to hear that I bought new rockers from Nissan. So... Soon, probably before week's end, I'll send all three cams to Isky, addressed to Ron, himself. He told us to address the package to him personally so he could handle the evaluation, then get back to me. I imagine turnaround will be about three weeks.

I must have misunderstood some else's post about getting the matteness right.

Once I have a running motor I will let you know. I'm waiting for the numbers to come back from the machinist and for this conversation with Isky to happen before we move forward with one. In other news, I just got off the phone with Courtesy and they confirmed that the rocker pivot they have is just the skinny pivot itself and not the entire assembly. When I mentioned that I'll try to get some from a junk yard they suggested finding a machine shops that might replicate them. Not sure if it's worth the effort, but I know of one so I might ask.

Just found this: "The 240Z / JDM S30 etc., 1969 - 1973, fender mirror option has part numbers 96301-E4100 (RH) and 96302-E4100 (LH) - these are the black, round face mirrors. I have had stock of these and can confirm that appearance. These mirrors continued into the 260Z / S30 models (late 1973 and onwards), but another option was added - part numbers 96301-N3400 and 96302-N3400." http://zclub.net/forum/showthread.php?t=19548 I also found this thread about some fender mirrors that look like the OEM wing mirror. They look a hell of a lot like the optional Nissan 1200 Sunny / 510 fender mirrors that pop up on eBay once in a while. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11863-early-style-fender-mirrors-as-found-on-early-chassis-id-ie-up-to-hs30-1000/page-3 In that thread you'll find a link to a PDF with the short stalk ones I mentioned earlier (46 & 47): http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=145648 It also links to this thread that had a ton of part numbers: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17034-a-theory-rhd-hs30-model-standard-exterior-rear-view-mirror-fitment/#comment-135797

No, I have two p90as that came with hydraulics and one p90 that came with solid/mechanicals. Four of my mechanical rocker pivots (lifters/tappets) are rounded from being seized to the cylinder head and I want to replace the rocker pivot bushing on those before I reinstall them so they are torqued correctly. When it comes to the ZX heads, I have read and watched all of this stuff. I know what goes in what and what's compatible and not compatible with what and how to swap the hydraulics for mechanical/solids. I was trying to find the part number to make sure that the parts Courtesy Nissan has listed as "lifters" are in fact what I need, and it seems they aren't, but I'm going to call them anyway. In the mean time I need to find another source. I found a couple of n47 heads for under $30 so I might grab those. Looking locally first.