Matthew Abate

I've been digging around the internet for the best deal on a rotisserie and this is what I have found (I am not really considering lifts without jacks but might go there if I have to. I am not considering making a rotisserie for a variety of reasons, even though I am certain I could make a fairly nice one on my own, so save your breath). In every case I will need to buy or fabricate the brackets that attach the rotisserie to the car, so I did not factor in those costs. After comparing a ton of them I have four finalists listed in descending order by price: AutoTwirler Elite — $1,837.77 ($1,285.00 + $552.77 Shipping to NJ) via JMC Automotive Equipment This has some really nice features, notably a screw to adjust the T-arm for correct center of gravity and 3" tubing, but it's not worth the price after shipping so it is off the table. Redline ROT3K — $1,406.49 ($1,199.50 + $82 shipping + $124 for lift gate service) This is pretty much what I want. It's really similar to the auto twirler, but a bit less expensive, powder coated, and made out of 3" tubing. Summit Racing Rotisserie — $1,308.97 ($1,159.97 + $149.00) Pretty much the same as the Redline one above. Weaver W-Rotisserie — $1,195.00 (free shipping) Comes with lots of extra goodies, including door bars, but none of the brackets will work on our cars so they are kind of a waste. I'm not sure I need the door bars, either. I DO like the crank they have for rotating the car, but I think if the center go gravity is dialed in that becomes unnecessary. It's also the only one in this list that doesn't have the balancing screw. Eagle Equipment Adjustable Height Rotisserie Lift — $1084 ($895 - 5% military discount + $128 Shipping to NJ + $140 for lift gate service) from manufacturer Might be okay. It has a screw for adjusting the center of gravity for the T-arm, but this one is 2.5" tubing. Tuxedo CR-3000 — $995.00 (free shipping) via Best Buy Auto Equipment Looks kind of rickety, but everyone who sells them says they never get complaints, and I don't see any bad reviews. I expect that this will come with hardware that needs to be replaced. It's also 2.5" tubing.

Yeah, totally agree. Funny because I think the complete wide body kit looks alright, for a wide body kit anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I had some down time at work today, so I did a quick photoshop mockup of what the Rocket Bunny Pandem Fairlady front valance could look if they made a narrow body version. I had been considering having a 3D designer make me a CAD file of this… (Original photo) ... but now I'm thinking that I don't love it as much as I thought I would.

Time.

Title says it all. I'm looking for a complete variable height rotisserie with jacks to get my car ready for paint and am trying to save money by not buying a brand new one. Please PM me with the make, model, and your shipped price to 07040.

I wish they were louvres. I was thinking they looked pretty rad when I looked at that picture on my phone, but that is the mat I bought to stand on when I am welding. Maybe someone should use that as inspiration to make some!

Did this this week. There are plenty of write-ups on this subject so I'll just keep it to photos. And a shot of some of the nice burns I got from the one place I didn't have well protected during upside down welding:

The photographs make them look crazy long. I haven't decided if I'm going to buy or make one yet, but this length issue will probably determine that Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I can't find any information about how much additional length a rotisserie (of any brand) adds to the length of the car. I have a fairly short garage with a workbench on one end, so I need it to be less than 22' to work, and that's with no room to walk around it. Does anyone have one mounted up that they could measure for me?

That and the domes for the CR I wanted. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I wonder where the ad about the guy not waiting for you to help him with his flat is? Definitely go into every situation assuming you need a gun. Good idea.

About 55ccs Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Update:

The Pistons were designed to fit into a p90 head combustion chamber so that it will yield a compression ratio between 9.8:1 and 9.9:1. I don't have the cam specs readily available, but will share them later. We were going to go with Isky, but after 13 weeks of communication headaches we are going (I think) with Comp Cams.

Forged. Carbs, not turbo. Trial fit looks right on so far.

Update:

Block work has started.

Looks like crap but it's in. Good thing it's not structural and will be covered by carpet. I had forgotten to turn on the gas until half way. Smooth after I realized that, but clearly I need a check list.

How many gallons did you use? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's an interesting thread on lizard skin and sound deadening: http://www.montecarloss.com/community/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=933436

Well, looks great so far! I didn't realize the full covers we an actual COVER and not a replacement skin. If I had a million dollars if just send it of to be redone in cynic by professionals, but the quote I got back was $1,700. Can't remember who it was from. I just deleted it out of disgust. Maybe I'll be following in your footsteps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure lizard skin is a heat shield as well. I think it's ceramic. That was the sales pitch anyway. Look into it.

I don't understand why fiberglass would be easier/better than the full dash covers I've seen for sale. Am I underestimating how difficult that job is or is it more that the covers themselves suck? I'm asking mostly because I think I'm going to find myself in a situation where I need to do this too so I'm super curious what the reality of putting one of those on is.

That is super interesting... And might change my plan. I had intended to shoot the entire underside of my car with lizard skin or something similar. I will probably also shoot the inside of the car in all of the places covered by carpet, fabric, or plastic with it as well. It's ceramic chips suspended in some kind of goo that acts as an undercoat as well as sound deadener, but it goes between the paint and the primer. 5 gallons weighs less than a gallon of paint and it has a significant effect. It's 100% not for a factory restoration because of the texture and I'm not sure how much I care about that at the moment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was talking to a paint shop this morning and they asked me how the factory did the underside of the car. Am I right that it was primer, then undercoat, and then they DID NOT paint the underside in the body color? It should just be oversprayed, right? Does this extend to the wheel wells, too? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk