Matthew Abate

Nice! I like the mellow shape of yours. It was totally an impulse eBay buy and might not be that most effective of all the options, but I like this more than swapping on a 280z hood.

Look at what came in the mail:

So when you want to clean out a gas tank, after you tape up and seal all of the tubes make sure you put the tank plug in BEFORE you poor a gallon of carb cleaner into it. [emoji21]

Good suggestion, thanks.

Quick question: is it safe to submerge the float on the fuel level sender in carburetor cleaner? Planning to clean out the tank tonight and want to use the sender as a plug, but don't want to end up with melted float all over the inside of the tank.

Thanks. The site wouldn't let me send anything to him for some reason but it is working now. Read through those posts and don't have the explicit answers, but I'll continue combing through tonight. Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, I tried sending a PM to him but that function seems to be down for me at the moment. I hear what you are saying about the RPMs. Maybe in the end it won't be an issue, but being cautious until I understand more. Still tons of time and stuff to do before I have to commit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I had some of my information a little out of whack. Apparently we had not finalized the compression ratio yet and I was using old assumptions. Everyone seems to think 9.85 to 9.9:1 is the way to go, rather than 9.75:1. I have to figure out where we are going to get our cam, but I know we aren't going to just go big. We want to figure out the sweet spot for low and midrange gains, yes. But we are considering the limitation on valve speed that comes with a big cam and how a smaller cam with more duration can help with that on the top end without killing the dynamic compression. Gotta find the happy medium. Next steps on this will be getting the head worked over.

Everything I've read says stay below 10:1. If you guys are running higher and don't have any problems, what's the disconnect? Madkaw, I want to be able to run 89 if I have to by will probably run 91 regularly. Who knows what's going to happen to gas prices next year, and we only have 89, 91, and 93 around here. Regarding the cam, I'm so not there yet. Next month I should have the brain space to do that research, but right now we're looking at Stage 1.

Good stuff. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay this right here is something I really don't have a firm direction on. I had been keeping it low due to numerous comments about pump gas being a problem at high compression. I definitely don't want 10:1 because that seems to be a guarantee of problems when using regular pump gas, but I want to sort of push it to the highest it can be on regular even though I'll probably run supreme. So you're saying take it to 9.85? There's plenty of room to add more CCs to the dome.

Yeah, I am planning to do a lot to the head, which is why I hired Lary. He did my dad's last two engines and they perform very nicely, plus he has enough L-series experience to make me feel confident having him work on it. And, yeah, we have a complete L28ET in addition to what we are making for my 240, but that one is my dad's for some project he's planning. Not sure what. Also, I get the impression you felt like you were overdoing it with the comments, which is not the case. I appreciate the advice! This is foreign territory for me, which is why I have professional engine builders putting it together rather than trying to do it myself. But even then, we are looking at what you guys have done and had success with for guidance. I'm not taking anything at face value, but I'm not dismissing anyone's comments either. I've seen a lot of really great ideas on this forum and well as Hybridz, Zcar.com, and others. I've also seen a lot of backyard hack stuff. Just gotta look deeply on every tip and investigate the long run impact, such as the diesel crank or shaving the head or offset grinding the crank. They are all great for particular applications, but they aren't precisely right for the direction I chose to go. I'm glad that I went deep on my research for all of those things before I chose NOT to do them because now I am certain of WHY. I found two solutions, both expensive: Have a custom piston manufacturer make them to your specifications. I am going with Wiseco because I have had a better experience with them on the phone, read that they have good customer service, and have gotten the impression that their product is reliable and the quality matches the price (if anyone strongly disagrees please speak up). I am going with this solution because it matches the precision build strategy that we opted for. Get a set of Z22S pistons and mill of 1.5mmoff with a CNC machine to get rid of the dish. Essentially doing the same as above but starting with a piston that is already halfway there rather than a cylindrical chunk of solid forged steel. This is fine, but You would probably want new ones, and then you are voiding any kind of warranty they came with by modifying them. I think in the end this is actually more expensive, unless you do this to a set of used pistons and I'm not certain it really gives adequate CR despite having read about this on a few threads. Something I forgot to mention above is that the new pistons will also be relieved for valve float, which makes the dome even taller (although we're only talking an additional ~6CCs total, so while it's bigger than the dome on the Datsun competition / European non-turbo 290ZX pistons it's not a huge bulge.

Zed Head, Needed rods regardless so went with 240 to get the better rod angle (max of 17.277 degrees) to reduce ware and get that microscopic increase in downforce during combustion. Madkaw, The pistons will be 87mm diameter with a pin height of 35.35 and a 6.008 to 6.314 dome, which should yield a CR of 9.75 to 9.8 with a 1mm head gasket. This is where I'm splurging.

Looks like some people are wondering WTF I am up to with the engine build because I keep posting random stuff about it. Here is the current plan, but not me that I have already adjusted my plan a couple of times from the original original original plan, but this is how I build my guitars and this is how I build digital medical devices, so it works. My team of builders are my dad, a jet technician who builds corvette, mustang, sprint car, and drone engines on the side, and Lary Peto from Larry's Engine & Marine in Tucson, AZ. ~ F54 block and crank P90 head (mechanical lifters) L24 rods with ARP 9mm bolts 87mm Wiseco domed forged pistons yielding 9.75 CR The cam is still up in the air. The carbs will either be SUs with a 260 intake manifold and '72 balance tube or triple 40pph Mikunis on a Harada manifold. The headers with either be Trust or Fujitsubo unless I decide to keep the EGR and can't figure out where to tap the exhaust system, in which case it will be the MSA '73 header. All comments and advice are much appreciated.

Rods purchased! Thanks everyone, but especially zKars. Siteunseen, I'll post the plan in my build thread this evening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Seems like but I haven't seen one yet. Granted I've only been shopping for rods for a few days. Maybe everyone is doing like me and keeping their 2.4L engine in a crate. And there IS a consensus on CX Racing: stay far away.

Right now I'm just trying to maximize quality and price. MSA has some for $106 each, but I can't tell if they are NOS or aftermarket or what. Found a used set for $350 but seems high and there's an error on the site so I don't know if there's a shipping charge. If no one has a set I might be stuck with these options. I had looked into the CX Racing ones, but there's no consensus on them on any of the Z forums, other than that they have terrible customer service.

I'm shopping for a good set of 133mm long connecting rods with 9mm bolts from a late 240z. I've found a few places online but don't want to spend quite so much. PM me with a price if you have some.

That's a good point I had not considered. My wife wants it to be dark metallic green, which makes the trim look fantastic, but I feel like it really needs the tan interior and I'm not willing to replace my entire interior for that. I keep coming back to 918 or some dark solid gray like the Porsche Non Metallic Slate Grey above ("gray" may be the American spelling for the color but the name of that paint is spelled with an E on the site I pulled that photo from. [emoji6]).

I'm saying that I think the fully done over Rebello engine would be more than I need. And I meant taking metal away from the head, journals, inside of the block, boring the cylinders to 88+, etc.

Holy crap! [emoji15]

And you have six of those why?

I talked to him about it and netted out on stock crank, 240 rods, custom pistons, because ultimately I would rather drive at the top end of that than have too much after all the other factors are taken into account. Could I build a stroker with a diesel crank and figure out all kinds of solutions to the various issues? Sure, but I want to be on the road in a year and that sounds like a great way to get lost in an engine build forever. Could I put in a Rebello kit? Sure, but it necessitates a lot of things that I would rather not do. Namely taking lots of metal away from lots of pieces. I know it's price. Effective, but that doesn't fit my build style. I'll probably go through him for other things, though.

Had a paint guy come over to check out the car and these colors came up: Porsche Graphite Blue Metallic Long Beach Blue Metallic Flame Orange Porsche Non Metallic Slate Grey Audi Nardo Grey

The things that aren't immediately obvious when you read the top results when researching this mod are the vibration, the internal mods to the block, and the impact on the fuel system. I knew they would be hard to find or expensive, although after eight days I found a pretty wide variety of sources that just require some work to lock them down. They aren't as rare as the $2,000 eBay listing up right now would suggest. I knew that I would need custom pistons, but my build requires them anyway so that particular aspect is not impacting my budget. I did not consider the internal grinding requirement, which makes me uneasy, the fact that I would probably HAVE to run triple mikunis or at least make some serious mods to the SU system, and I didn't think about the increased vibration, which sounds like it makes the car a lot lest fun to drive and causes dampeners to fail. No thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk