Matthew Abate

Zed Head, to your point, I just read this on another thread, which devolves into a flame war pretty quickly, by the way:

I am not sure I want to follow this path. When I started looking into it I had space to store an LD28 and time to eBay the excess parts. Since then my dad went out and bought a turbo engine (I'll admit it was a good deal) that we didn't need and filled that space. I also missed out on all the cheaper ones I found in the beginning of my investigation. The NOS leads I had turned out to not be real, getting one from New Zealand is possible, but more of a pain and time suck than I am willing to put into it, and then I just realized yesterday that you have to grind the inside of the block if you don't bore to 88mm, which isn't ideal. But, I also know people like to do this, so if someone wants these four engines and wants to pass a crank my way I'll make it happen. The New Zealand angle is interesting because I found 6 LD28s for sale right now for an average price of $300. They seem to be swimming in them over there. My friends who fly back and forth regularly were up to the challenge for getting them to the states, but in the end I think the price per crank would have been too close to the potential resale price to make it worth doing, and in order to get costs down you would really have to get a bunch of them. Bringing one over is easier but basically $800 for an unseen part. In the end I'll probably forego it unless I can get one sub $400, but it was an interesting exercise to go through.

I just found a guy in MD with four LD28s, $750 each. Anyone want to go grab them and pull the best crank for me? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, can't make it work. Would be at least $1500 by the time I got it home. From what I can tell that is not recoup able from selling the rest of the parts. There was also one in Arkansas that I missed out on by about a day for $700. Right now my best option looks like importing one. Investigating having a friend pick one up from an engine that's going for $100 overseas.

Hope not! Looks like some of the panels are usable if anyone wants to pick it up.

Oh, might be willing to trade turbo ZX parts for an LD28 crank

I dig it, mostly because you don't really see it anywhere. I'm investigating how hard it would be to replicate the TRA Kyoto Pandem kit that is on GReddy/Sun Kang's Fugu Z, but with sides for factory fenders. If anyone wants to help, hit me up.

As far as I can tell the trucks had the SD22. That was a 4 cylinder, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, meant .01, not .001. PMing you now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm looking for a diesel maxima crank that doesn't need more than 0.01" taken off the journals. I've found brand new ones in Europe and Japan, but they're running at least $1,500. Craigslist people aren't answering. Might end up finding a car or engine, but would rather not have to drive forever and pull it myself. Anyone know a workaround?

One of the body shops I am interviewing for my '73 has this '76 sitting in the back. Abandoned by the owner who never paid for the work. Roof cave in from an avalanche off the shop roof. Bummer.

Nice front valence. One piece fiberglass or fabbed up?

I edited that post for clarity. Question is why it didn't show as edited. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Chemicals and paint for the tank ordered and on their way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably as good as it's going to get without drilling holes. The depression is about 1/8" deep and about the radius of a softball. If I keep working this I'm going to have more disfigurement than when I started.

The key is remembering all this when its time to do it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Almost done dissassembling the head for the machinist:

Look what came in the mail: Nearly perfect. The rectangular bowl where the drain plug is located is slightly caved in, but I have a plan to make a slide hammer out of 3/8ths square steel rod and use my dollies to tap it back to where it should be. Huge shout out to Mark Maras for finding, securing, and Greyhounding this to me. Gonna focus on this piece until it's finished while my head is off getting worked on. @Charliekwin, everything you said is why I change my mind every time I go online.

Shifting gears for a minute while I do research and continue dismantling the car, I thought I would go back to the topic of paint. I have this thread going on the subject of non-s30 Datsun colors, but it didn't get any tractions, so I'll stick it in here. Right now I am leaning in 3 directions: Orange, Grey, or Silver. Within those 3 are tons of options, but my main dilemma is… ORIGINAL or NOT ORIGINAL? Here's some pretty stuff I've been looking at: From Speed Shop Web by Willy Izaguirre Found at the Nisei Showoff in 2010 DUH! Next year BMW Z4 in Valencia Orange Aston Martin's Madagascar Orange (Also on Land Rovers I think)

I would have if they had not been disconnected when I bought the car. :/ It will be part of the rewrapping project.

I'll just leave this right here: http://www.rotiform.com/rbq-w-29630.htm

Crazy. In other news, I got the brain stem and spinal cord out tonight.

Question: are the rear lower control arms supposed to be identical, or did someone just flip one over and use it on the wrong side of my car? A quick google image search shows me that they are the same part and it's just upside down on one side, but I want to make absolutely certain. Did I answer my own question?

I just want to figure out the max size for a stock suspension lowered 1.5-2" and probably with an air dam. No flares, no aftermarket coil over setups. I might do something to give it camber but otherwise I don't think it'll be modified. 25" is the stock tire diameter, right?

F no.