Matthew Abate

I’m buying a dial indicator tonight so I can do this. I’m thinking I scrambled my shims in reassembly, but I’m going to measure the bearing preload before I do anything. If that’s off then my total shim measurement is wrong. If it’s right then at least that’s a starting point and all I have to figure out is how off the backlash is. right?

Okay, questions for everyone: I had to go get a new cover and input flange for the Subaru r180 that I refreshed, and once I got it all together I noticed some lash or play in the front. I didn’t have this with the previous input flange, but that may have been masked by the dent in the collar, which is what motivated me to replace it. Here’s a video. You can hear a knocking sound when I wiggle the flange: 26EE4460-F9DA-4CB6-B3D3-32EAC1D8972E.MOV When I did this refresh, I replaced everything but the bearings. It only had about 10,000 miles on it (it’s off a 2014 WRX STI) so I figured they were okay. I DID replace the side shims, but I used the exact same amount of shim on each side as the ones I pulled. I also did not measure the lash with dealer gauges(probably my biggest mistake), because I had matched the shim measurement and the bearings were the same. My Datsun diff does not have this problem. Right now I’m thinking I need thicker shims on one or both sides, but I wanted to see what people think the issue is before I tear it apart again. If you think I need bearings I should do that at the same time. Regardless, it looks like I need a dial gauge because I don’t think I can measure this with feeler gauges. Thoughts?

Got a good on eBay. A little surface rusty but should work out. Fingers crossed!

Thanks everyone. I found one in Washington that is in good shape and cheap enough for me to pull the trigger on it. I almost went repro, but I’m crossing my fingers that this one will work out. thanks for the help.

Yeah, my painter says no go. Thanks for the attempt, though! right now I’m wondering if a repro would be easiest, even though it’s most expensive.

Thanks. Yes. I found three that might work. It's hard to evaluate one of these on the photos people post. We all have different ideas of what "straight" means.

i Haven’t found anything on Craigslist but I have found several on eBay or on retailer sites. another question: does anyone know if these two holes are factory or if I should close them up? You're looking up into the passenger floorboard from the front right wheel well.

Yes please!

PM sent

So my painter waited until the week before he wants to spray the car to tell me I need a new hood. Anyone have any ideas on where to source one that doesn't need body work? I'm watching a few on eBay that look like they would need filling or welding. And then there are the repros.

Please excuse the WTB post in this section, but I need to solve my problem quickly. It is my 666th post, after all. My painter decided to tell me today that the hood is waffled and needs to be replaced, oh and the paint is going on next week. They want me to get a replacement asap. Fixing it would take too much filler and money. You know, they lay down the money, and then the filler, and more money, and more filler, etc. I see a hood at The Maserati Compound and a bunch on eBay. I also see repos on Futofab and Z Car Depot. Usually I would want OEM, but I'm kind of inclined to go with the repo so I don't have to have anything fixed. It's going to cost more, but with the potential rust or warp fixes the bodywork might make OEM more expensive. That said, the repros might fit badly. So my questions are, does anyone have a hood that doesn't need any work they want to sell (direct message me please) and does anyone have experience with the reproduction hoods and how is the fit? Thanks in advance.

The diff had been sitting outdoors with no axels and was full of mud. I took it apart to clean it out, inspect it for wear and rust, and replace all the seals and whatnot. Thankfully it had enough grease on it that everything was peachy.

I picked up some way back. Can’t remember who from. I think Z car depot. I also using one of these:

Update: So the Subaru dif is mostly done. It needs to be flushed again and I think the cover gasket is leaking, but since I bent the dust shroud on the input flange I’m putting this in storage until I’m in the mood to mess with it again. It needs to be sitting on the wheels to get that front lock nut torqued to 195 nm, otherwise I’m only going to continue messing up my hard work (see 2nd to last image).

False alarm! I was able to find and download the FSM for the car this diff came from (2014 Subaru WRX STi). Here's the answer in case you were wondering… Apply liquid gasket to the bolts indicated by arrows, and tighten the side retainer bolt. Liquid gasket: THREE BOND 1110F (Part No. K0879Y0021), THREE BOND 1110B or equivalent Tightening torque: 10.5 N·m (1.1 kgf-m, 7.7 ft-lb)

I could use advice: The Subaru r180 diff I am cleaning up seams to have something like plumbers putty on the bolts that hold the side covers on where the axles enter the case. I’ve never seen this before. Is this to keep oil from leaking out from around those bolts? Does anyone know what this stuff is and if I can get it at an auto parts store? I’d like to do this as correctly as I can. Thanks.

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Thanks. Now I need someone who needs one to see this.

I’m good there. If anything I’d like them to be a few millimeter longer, but it’s fine. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Yes, and it ended up only being seven of them that really needed it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

My Z should be coming home in February from the painter so I’ll have a rotisserie for sale. $750 DM me if interested. Local pickup in NJ (07040) It’s a light duty rotisserie but it worked great for my Z. The jacks are in fantastic shape and the hardware is as well. Comes with the brackets you need to hang a Z, as well as some door bars I never used and extra brackets for other cars.

Oh trust me, I'll be taking off the minimum. I will be surprised if it's more than just the very top of the hole since the backs of the wheels were all fine.

Yep, Bruce nailed it. The .68” mag lugs I bought slip in perfectly from the other side, so it looks like a mix of compressed material in the front and poor measuring on my part. Most of them have zero resistance at all, so I’ll just file around the edges until it’s uniform. These are the lug nuts I got (washer not shown):

When digging through my garage for things to use as a sanding block on these wheels I found a pry bar that almost fits into the wheel hole and measures 17.42mm diameter. I measured the holes again on two wheels and got a range from 16.2 to 17.23, so I bought some domed mag nuts that have a .68” shank, which is 17.272mm, and I’ll open up the holes with a round file and cylinder hone bit until they fit. I’m just concerned about throwing of the PCD or otherwise compromising the geometry of the holes.. —- Now I just have to figure out how to turn the angled valve stem Costco installed sideways without taking it back, breaking it, etc. It never ends. —- Incidentally, I went with Michelin Defender T+H - 195/70R14 91H tires. Costco had them for $85 each after the promotion they’re running.