Matthew Abate

I have some numbers to report: The distance bearings / spacers came in at 52.56 mm long. There was a small amount of variance as I went around the diameter of up to .02 mm and this was true of both. The washers came in at 1.01 mm. The amount of variance around the diameter was .01 mm and from outside edge to inside edge was also .01 mm. I have to wait for the POR-15 to dry to do the hubs, but the distance from the very outside of the area on the spindle where the outer bearing seats to the very inside of the same for the inside bearing is 86.32mm, although there’s a good chance this is wrong because of the radius at the point where the spindle flares into the wheel hub. I used the edges of the shiny spots where the bearings were as my guides. I need to fish my bearings out later to add it all up. Hopefully they’ll add up to 32.75mm. —- Caveat: nothing but the bearings is available new so this is pretty much academic at this point. I’ll probably just put them together and cross my fingers.

Right but my car confirmed both the diagram and the tsb by having washers in two different places. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Okay, so it looks like I can reuse the two I have provided they aren't worn too much, or I can leave them out. And one last thing: I found one between the seal and the bearing, which sounds like the right place. The other one was stuck to the end of the distance bearing with grease, which sounds like the wrong place. Notice they are using two different part numbers (4100 vs 3400). Glad I'm overhauling all this now that I'm finding discrepancies.

Hmmm. Okay. I'll mic the distance bearing and the copper service file washer later (loaned my micrometer to my father in law). However, I did find another copper washer. It was between the seal and the bearing, which is weird, because as far as I can tell these hubs have never been disassembled before now. The nuts were still peened. So one was where kCars mentioned above and one was where the exploded diagram of the hub says it goes between the bearing and the distance bearing. Or am I confusing parts? I'm looking at #14 in the diagram:

You are correct. I mis-typed and have a 3.54, which is what I wanted because it's the stock ratio for the Z

I just got my rear hubs back from the shop and the guy threw out all my old bears "because they were shot." I got the distance bearings, usually referred to as spacers here, back but he only saved one of the four copper shim washers. They are part number 43211-N3400 and go between the bearings and either end of the distance bearing. Any chance someone has a line on these? I need three. Looks like this:

I haven't run it yet, but I got the 2014 3.9. I think it's the newest one that is limited slip (newer STIs have an open diff). So far what I've found is that you need the input flange and rear mounting studs from a Datsun. I got the studs along with a complete rear cover just in case the Subaru cover has clearance issues against the various parts that are in there. For example, the Subaru vent is really tall and might hit. I'll be swapping the covers and input flange right after I repaint the case. It was fairly rusty when I got it. Other than that, you just have to figure out if your going to use Datsun half shafts or CVs. CVs present their own complications, which I covered in my original post.

Yes. I already have it. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I saw on Instagram this morning that someone I follow had a pair of Silvermine Motors Subaru r180 output shafts fail on him before they hit 5,000 miles. I was wondering if anyone has thoughts on the quality of these parts. Otherwise, these are the options: 1. The sane option is to get some output shafts that mate the stock half shafts to the Subaru differential. These seem to be limited to the Silvermine ones ($375) or the ones at Futufbab ($550). The Beta Motorsports ones seem to be NLA. 2. The insane option is to get the output shafts at Z Car Depot that mate a Subaru differential to a Porsche 930 CV axle as well as the CV-to-27-spline stub axle that they have ($1,220 for both), buy some 280ZX stub axels ($250 to 500 on eBay although I'm sure I can find them for less), and get some custom 930 axles made ($???) 3. The sketchy option is to get a CV conversion kit that works with what I have and stock Subaru output shafts ($$$ plus a lot of extra bolts and billet aluminum in my driveline).

Another thing I'm wondering is whether the caliper adapter requires the dust shield to be left off in order to align with the rotor. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Has anyone tried to put dust shields on the back after doing a rear disc conversion? I was considering trying to adapt something from another car (280zx, maxima, Silvia, etc.) but wanted to see if anyone has tried, succeeded, or even just had parts laying around to see if it's feasible. Right now I'm thinking some 280zx shields could be red ripped to mount 45 degrees to their original position as long as the diameter works with the discs that come in the kit, which I still need to identify. Edit: the thread title should have said Fabricating, not raving (autocorrect).

Not sure if they're related. Campagnolo wheels for cars go way back and we're used on Porsche 911s and 914s. DeTonasso Panteras also got them. Hayashi made the Hayashi Street Mag, which is actually manufactured by Campagnolo. It came only in 14x6 and looks almost identical to the 40802 except the Hayashi branding and Manufactured in Italy castings. The Hayashi Street is their polished face version with black recesses and is readily available. The Rota Shakotan is a knockoff of the Hayashi and comes in black with polished face or black with just the lip polished. If you want the mag look, which I think is cleaner and more period correct, you're going to have to get the Group 4s.

I am also investigating wheels and have heard a variety of responses to this question. From what I can tell, 15x7 all around will fit with no clearance issues, but Hayashi recommended 6.5 in the front and others have said 8 will fit all around. I am going to stay with 7" or less in the front and might go as wide as 8" in the back, depending on the wheel I choose and the options available.

I was sniffing around a Porsche forum and found this company called Group 4 that makes a replica of the Campagnolo 40802 wheel. The Campagnolo 40802 wheel is what the Hayashi Street is based on, which is what the Rota Shakotan is based on. Group 4 sells a couple of different diameters in a handful of widths, and you can get them in 114.3 4 lug with a custom offset in either mag color or gold. One 15x7" wheel costs, £336.00 including VAT. I've reached out a couple of times but not gotten a response, but that might be because I've been using social media instead of email. http://group4wheels.com

I just saw this on instagram. Not sure where the photo was taken but it's an L series head with FI and a plate on the head that said "Mikuni" and one on the throttle body that says "fuel injection prototype." I've never heard of this. Anyone know what's up?

Okay, so two systems that are within the margin of error could be conceivably be considered equal, whereas outside of that margin of error the superiority of one over the other would be actual, if not indisputable. This doesn't undermine the exercise. We just need people to actually post something. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

If anyone has a better idea of how to get this information tracked in one place, I'm all ears, but so far all I've seen is people insisting based on theory. I haven't even seen more than maybe two butt dyno comparisons let alone actual data. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

There has to be at least five people who dynoed two systems, right? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

But it might be possible for people to do this with what they have experience with, so, for example, if two people compare two exhaust each, and they both have one in common, we can infer a hierarchy. In other words, I show dyno charts on exhausts A and B with B being better, and you show them on B and C with C being better, we can make a strong case that C is better than A. And even without that, a consolidated thread of people giving data on their systems is better than nothing.

Received and looks great! Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I've read many threads and done my searches and have decided there is no discussion happening where people compare the exhaust systems available for the street on a performance level. I am looking at a few systems for my car, but I was hoping that I could spawn a robust discussion that would perhaps crowd source enough information that we could put together a sticky post for people to be able to reference in the future. These are the pieces of information I am hoping to capture, but if you think I missed something please add to it (I am by no means an exhaust expert or I wouldn't need to do this): Impact on HP / Torque at various points along the rev range Materials / longevity / construction Weight Other considerations I think are important because this is a street-application specific thread: Availability Price Fit (240z vs 280z, r180 vs r200 diff, other considerations) Muffler dB Me personally, I am looking at the new version of the Fujitsubo Legalis R twin system, Sean's Z-Story single system, Spirit Garage's twin system, and the Trust header mated to something I haven't figured out yet. I know there are tones of other options so it might be crazy to try to capture a comprehensive set of information, and I am selfishly hoping to get real experienced feedback on the ones I mentioned, but figuring out what performs best for a street application is my overarching goal. Maybe the best way to go about it is for people to nominate an option and give reasons matching my topics above and then for debate to ensue... Or you can just post a link to where this has happened already and I couldn't find it.

Okay, so I didn't see an update where anyone mentioned having experience ordering, purchasing, installing, or driving with the new Fujitsubo system. Has it been released yet and does anyone have one? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I've settled on rear discs despite the additional cost and weight. Question: has anyone tried to make a dust shield work with the rear disc kits that are available? I was thinking maybe the Zx dust shield might have a close bolt pattern and be modifiable to work. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Also, does anyone know if the read disc shields from a ZX (or from any other car) will work with the rear disc conversion? Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Interesting. I wasn't aware of this mod. So far I've been going back and forth between replacing all the original drum parts and going with rear discs. Tell me more... Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile