Matthew Abate

Here's the whole article: http://www.gq.com/story/new-classic-cars Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm looking for advice and idea on getting the bay as tidy as possible, not making it look factory stock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry. Yes, they are out. I'm doing a complete tear down.

... Getting some duplicate post errors ...

... Getting some duplicate post errors ...

Hey, man. Do not fret! I am enjoying the process. Remember, I'm a beginner at sheet metal, so getting familiar with the material is a must. Also, the black goop is rust converter for whomever was wondering. Wanted to stabilize it after using the wire wheels. It'll come off before the primer goes on.

I may have missed it, but I didn't see any mention of what you are planning to bore out the cylinders to in order to get the compression ratio you want. You have to bore it, Mill the p90, or use a different head, even with the flat tops, or find the unobtainable Datsun performance domed Pistons if you want the kind of compression you're talking about. I'm doing a p90 / F54 with SUs and I think I'll be able to get mid to high 9s with .5mm over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anyone have any good pics they can share and describe the choices they made? I saw a couple good ones on the catch can thread.

I'll check with you guys first from now on... I didn't get a ton of time to work on the car today. I'm traveling for work next week and wanted to maximize family time, so this is probably it until next weekend: Went a little crazy with the wire wheel and got it too hot in places. Might have warped it a little, but maybe that will come out when I weld it in. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Etched lines for the cuts on the driver's side.

Just the cover. I'm trying to work out something with the seller, but my machinist confirmed that it needs welding. If I can't work it out with the seller I'll let you guys know who it was. In the mean time, this is the list of estimates the machinist gave me: Weld: $150. Resurface: $50. Valve job: $225. Polish Crank: $45; if it needs grinding add $95. Clean Block: $65. Check Crank Saddles: $60; if align honing is needed add $100. Inspect Rods: $6.50 each; add $7.50 per rod that needs reconditioning. Cost of boring depends on pistons but probably not more than $25 per cylinder, plus the cost of my pistons. What do you guys think?

Took a look and they're in good shape. In other news: a successful eBay purchase! $20, flawless. I think I'm going to get it powder coated in black with polished stripes and lettering.

Okay, time for an update... I bought another head after shipping that one with the hole in the side back to the eBay seller who didn't know what the hell he was talking about. The new one also comes from an eBay seller who doesn't know what the hell he's talking about, but this one is at least fixable. First problem? He packed it in the world's flimsiest box and left the front bolts in it so they got bent in transit. I'm seriously lucky the head isn't cracked as a result. The long one is the front thermostat housing stud; the short one installs at the front of the head under the valve cover. The second problem? There's a corroded water passage at #6 cylinder. It ate into the head near the cylinder so there was both an internal leak into #6 and an external leak near the heater pipe outlet. It might clean up with surfacing but I will need to shim the cam towers at least 0.020 inch. Otherwise, the head needs welding and resurfacing to near original specs. This definitely caused a blown gasket and should have been disclosed in the description when it was placed up for bidding. We can work with it but I need a partial refund to cover the cost of repairs. Just checked the original ad on eBay... If this is the head he referred to, he's either an inexperienced engine builder, a poor mechanic, a liar, or all of the above! I'll give him benefit of doubt and ask if he shipped the wrong head; I doubt it. There is no way this head is ready to "bolt & go", as he claimed! The cam is rusted; the valves are rusted... but every thing can be cleaned up. So yeah. Time to talk to the machinist.

Clean enough for now. This is all I can do with the time, tools, and chemicals I have. Still got some globs of dirty oil from 35 years ago and random spray paint, but at least I can move it without gloves now. Plus no random insect eggs from Idaho in my house. Oh! And the case had "#1" cast on the side. I haven't verified the gear ratio yet, but this is a good sign that I have in fact purchased what I wanted. Back to the sheet metal.

I'm getting into the process of welding up the little holes and imperfections in the body of my Z from things the previous owner did to her (aftermarket mirrors, mud flaps, etc.) and want to start planning the engine bay clean up process while I'm at it. One thing I know I don't know is what is the list of stuff that can be tidied, and what can't change? I'm running a 1983 F54 with a P90a and two SUs. Haven't gotten past that on the configuration yet (lots happening in parallel). Any tips and tricks are much appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, question: who has experience with the block paint the MSA is selling? They can't tell me the temp rating. Les isn't selling his any more (CA laws) and Banzai wants me to mail a paper check and cross my fingers.

Awesome tips. I'll go with a stock ZX pan I'm eyeballing. Pity there's no steel option with baffles, at least as far as I can tell. Starting to think its time to investigate fabricating a baffle kit.

Some info I should have mentioned: we're building an F54 with flat tops and a p90 with 1972 SUs. We will bore it to get ~9.5 CR. The trans is a 1980 720 5-speed and the dif is stock to the 1973 240z it's all going into.

So how much does the car really need the baffles for street driving? I've read that the engine can have pickup problems but how many Gs do you really need to pull to cause that. Can I just run a 280zx pump and pan to solve this? Trying to balance the cost to the benefit.

I've been digging around and don't see the answers I'm looking for to the following questions: Does anyone who put an aluminum oil pan into a street-only S30 recommend it? If so, we're there any issues around fitting it into the car? I've seen people mention that they get in the way of the suspension and require modifications I don't want to do, but I can't verify that. Is anyone running an external oil cooler on a non-turbo, naturally aspirated car? Are both of these excessive mods that might prevent the car coming up to temp? I'm looking for mods that improve operation and longevity, not just power output, but these are seeming like a waste of cash for a street car that probably won't clear 200hp.

Somebody's a dirty little girl...

I'll tear it open tomorrow and check it out. Getting it from the opposite corner of my house without something to roll it on was fun times, and after the day I had at work it's time tequila time. /M

My 720 5-speed is in there.

Nice Australian valve cover as well. Kinda want one myself.

Yes. I spaced some of the advice I got from the guy who taught me how to use the welder, which included everything you said above. The other mistake I made was beveling the whole edge instead of leaving some material to actually create a butt joint, which explains why I burnt through it so much. Gonna make a check list for next time.