dogma420

Actually, so, your clutch fork/throwout bearing doesn't match your slave? If they don't match, that is news to me. Enough time wasted here. Doesn't matter to me. Just trying to help someone with a pretty easy problem... nevermind.

when you say 'external spring' what are you talking about? There is no such thing. It is either: 1. late 240z/260z/280z with internal spring to keep the pin tight against clutch fork, or 2. early 240z with adjustable (with nut) pin to keep tight against clutch fork. There isn't any other type. The clutch slave used must match the parts of your clutch. There is no external spring type slave. IF YOU TRY TO USE THE WRONG SLAVE--- then your clutch will slip or not work at all--they are designed for different lengths--between the slave and the clutch fork...each type technically bolts to the transmission housing at a different length from the fork--you can't switch them.

The slave that you use must match the clutch. You can't use whatever one you want--it must match. For example, on my 72 240z, I have a 280z transmission, so I HAVE TO USE the slave for the 280z clutch...this is because my entire clutch assembly is a 280z clutch. If you use a ruler to measure the distance from end to end of the clutch fork to the base of the slave, you will find that the 2 different slaves are of a different measurement. THEY ARE NOT interchangeable. So, as long as you match the slave to whichever throw-out assembly you are using, you are fine. This has been discussed on this site to the point of giving us a migraine--why it is even being discussed here is beyond me. Why don't you use the search function and look at other posts from long ago....

<<Go pull one apart and post a picture of the spring. I double dog dare you! >> <<Alright, I think I'm wrong on this one>> ...no problem--I was more than happy to just sit back and hope you figured it out on your own...thinking about it--something has to adjust the clutch as it wears out.... Take care!

<This is not correct> What are you talking about jmortensen? Because of the spring, that's why it isn't manually adjustable; it has a spring in it that always keeps it adjusted automatically. That's how they changed the slave from the early one that you have to adjust all the time manually...

only the very early slaves are adjustable with the locking nut...all the rest are non-adjustable and simply have a spring in them that adjusts it automatically.

full house said: " -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: Originally Posted by dogma420 $1000 for a clutch? is that what that said? or was that for brakes too? $ 1000 for a clucth? where did you get that? " Uhh, I read the post....what's your excuse?

Regardless of how long it has been.... "If you don't have 'em, consider installing grose-jet float valves." This is something you should NOT do. I just ordered OEM float valves from Bruce (just received them in the mail Bruce, thanks)...these are just fine to replace worn out or gummed up float valves. I was simply missing one small clip that holds the needle from falling out....since I had originals, I just got some OEM ones, along with 2 new lid gaskets for the float containers, for $39 shipped. Better than any other price, I would recommend Ztherapy and Bruce for these parts. I checked around, and for japanese hitachis, this is where I would get them. Everyone else, you have to purchase either at the dealer or in a rebuild kit. Grose Jets have been found to be overall defective--they have a high rate of 'sticking' in the open or closed position. Most owners with these will carry a ball peen hammer with them to 'hammer' the float bowl to release the ball bearings on the grose jets. NOT recommended!

True, the lower front valance is different, mainly because the big bumpers would have covered up the 240z's turn signals (so they're in the grill now)...for better or worse, instead of being a rectangular opening, the grill opening was changed to a rounded appearance, on the bottom edges, which, imo, don't quite look right, in comparison to a 240... who am i to say though...everyone have a good week!

if you didn't know, there is a search tool, located in the blue colored bar of items (at the top area across the website), something like the 3rd one from the right...Use the search to answer your questions before posting your question. That's what is expected, and assumed everyone does, before anyone posts unknown info... Your questions have been answered many times...(other than 'longnose') what does this mean? never heard of the word in reference to a R200...beside the flanges and backing plates, an R200 is an R200, I thought.... good luck!!!

$1000 for a clutch? is that what that said? or was that for brakes too?

if you use the 'oil trick' to get a higher compression reading, that would defeat the purpose of seeing what your actual compression reading is. The oil trick would tell you if the 145 vs. new was 100% due to the rings, vs. valve leaks. Your compression of 145-150 is just fine though, imo., for over 100k.

It should also be noted that the issues we've all had with very slow windshield wipers-- When I replaced the stalks hardward (the part that goes through the cowl that the arms attach to--the motion was just like this new Civic setup--so my wipers now act much more like any other car. so I believe that most of the slow down is caused by rusty/non greased wiper stalks in the first place. I found almost new 280z wiper linkage that came with the wiper mount stalks, and this did the trick for me.

I would say that possibly it has been in an accident...I've seen a couple of pretty tweaked seats that if you didn't know they were in a car accident, you wouldn't have been able to figure it out...the whole frame was tweaked from impact with a larger person in the seat....good luck on figuring out why one side is more forward than the other. Very strange looking! By the way---about half way through the '72 model year, Nissan switched from strap bottoms to steel bottoms. The steel bottoms have a bunch of 'squiggly' lined metal rods like a mattress bottom, in preperation of using the safety buzzer system in later years....so mid 72 and earlier are strap bottom seats (wide, 2+ inch elastic straps across the bottom for support) or have a steel bottom. Above is a rough estimate...I don't think there was an exact 'cut off' or anything like that...my 10/71 1972 model year had strap bottomed seats.

bent metal on the one side? not really rocket science here....