dogma420

Actually, so, your clutch fork/throwout bearing doesn't match your slave? If they don't match, that is news to me. Enough time wasted here. Doesn't matter to me. Just trying to help someone with a pretty easy problem... nevermind.

when you say 'external spring' what are you talking about? There is no such thing. It is either: 1. late 240z/260z/280z with internal spring to keep the pin tight against clutch fork, or 2. early 240z with adjustable (with nut) pin to keep tight against clutch fork. There isn't any other type. The clutch slave used must match the parts of your clutch. There is no external spring type slave. IF YOU TRY TO USE THE WRONG SLAVE--- then your clutch will slip or not work at all--they are designed for different lengths--between the slave and the clutch fork...each type technically bolts to the transmission housing at a different length from the fork--you can't switch them.

The slave that you use must match the clutch. You can't use whatever one you want--it must match. For example, on my 72 240z, I have a 280z transmission, so I HAVE TO USE the slave for the 280z clutch...this is because my entire clutch assembly is a 280z clutch. If you use a ruler to measure the distance from end to end of the clutch fork to the base of the slave, you will find that the 2 different slaves are of a different measurement. THEY ARE NOT interchangeable. So, as long as you match the slave to whichever throw-out assembly you are using, you are fine. This has been discussed on this site to the point of giving us a migraine--why it is even being discussed here is beyond me. Why don't you use the search function and look at other posts from long ago....

<<Go pull one apart and post a picture of the spring. I double dog dare you! >> <<Alright, I think I'm wrong on this one>> ...no problem--I was more than happy to just sit back and hope you figured it out on your own...thinking about it--something has to adjust the clutch as it wears out.... Take care!

<This is not correct> What are you talking about jmortensen? Because of the spring, that's why it isn't manually adjustable; it has a spring in it that always keeps it adjusted automatically. That's how they changed the slave from the early one that you have to adjust all the time manually...

only the very early slaves are adjustable with the locking nut...all the rest are non-adjustable and simply have a spring in them that adjusts it automatically.

full house said: " -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Quote: Originally Posted by dogma420 $1000 for a clutch? is that what that said? or was that for brakes too? $ 1000 for a clucth? where did you get that? " Uhh, I read the post....what's your excuse?

Regardless of how long it has been.... "If you don't have 'em, consider installing grose-jet float valves." This is something you should NOT do. I just ordered OEM float valves from Bruce (just received them in the mail Bruce, thanks)...these are just fine to replace worn out or gummed up float valves. I was simply missing one small clip that holds the needle from falling out....since I had originals, I just got some OEM ones, along with 2 new lid gaskets for the float containers, for $39 shipped. Better than any other price, I would recommend Ztherapy and Bruce for these parts. I checked around, and for japanese hitachis, this is where I would get them. Everyone else, you have to purchase either at the dealer or in a rebuild kit. Grose Jets have been found to be overall defective--they have a high rate of 'sticking' in the open or closed position. Most owners with these will carry a ball peen hammer with them to 'hammer' the float bowl to release the ball bearings on the grose jets. NOT recommended!

True, the lower front valance is different, mainly because the big bumpers would have covered up the 240z's turn signals (so they're in the grill now)...for better or worse, instead of being a rectangular opening, the grill opening was changed to a rounded appearance, on the bottom edges, which, imo, don't quite look right, in comparison to a 240... who am i to say though...everyone have a good week!

if you didn't know, there is a search tool, located in the blue colored bar of items (at the top area across the website), something like the 3rd one from the right...Use the search to answer your questions before posting your question. That's what is expected, and assumed everyone does, before anyone posts unknown info... Your questions have been answered many times...(other than 'longnose') what does this mean? never heard of the word in reference to a R200...beside the flanges and backing plates, an R200 is an R200, I thought.... good luck!!!

$1000 for a clutch? is that what that said? or was that for brakes too?

if you use the 'oil trick' to get a higher compression reading, that would defeat the purpose of seeing what your actual compression reading is. The oil trick would tell you if the 145 vs. new was 100% due to the rings, vs. valve leaks. Your compression of 145-150 is just fine though, imo., for over 100k.

It should also be noted that the issues we've all had with very slow windshield wipers-- When I replaced the stalks hardward (the part that goes through the cowl that the arms attach to--the motion was just like this new Civic setup--so my wipers now act much more like any other car. so I believe that most of the slow down is caused by rusty/non greased wiper stalks in the first place. I found almost new 280z wiper linkage that came with the wiper mount stalks, and this did the trick for me.

I would say that possibly it has been in an accident...I've seen a couple of pretty tweaked seats that if you didn't know they were in a car accident, you wouldn't have been able to figure it out...the whole frame was tweaked from impact with a larger person in the seat....good luck on figuring out why one side is more forward than the other. Very strange looking! By the way---about half way through the '72 model year, Nissan switched from strap bottoms to steel bottoms. The steel bottoms have a bunch of 'squiggly' lined metal rods like a mattress bottom, in preperation of using the safety buzzer system in later years....so mid 72 and earlier are strap bottom seats (wide, 2+ inch elastic straps across the bottom for support) or have a steel bottom. Above is a rough estimate...I don't think there was an exact 'cut off' or anything like that...my 10/71 1972 model year had strap bottomed seats.

bent metal on the one side? not really rocket science here....

260z people-- us 240z people can't help with no information....there isn't an obvious answer that we can just say 'oh, here is your answer....' tell us what you did exactly and maybe we can help...just wanting an answer isn't going to get you anything. sorry. Troyz-are you saying that your wiring went exactly like a 240z? If so, I've done the conversion, and it should start no problem--I didn't have any issues, and from the instructions that can be found on this forum site, you shouldn't have any issues either. I would double check your work. If something is even a little bit different than the 240z instructions, please explain what was different, then maybe we (I) can help.

Mine leaks, but the original window/seal is still there--I've just used rubber silicone (black) and done a quick seal job on it--it works, just doesn't look perfect is all. Lots of silicone.

By the way, Victor said in the other thread: << It eases assembly and disassmbly. With the bolts out, you set the exhaust manifold on the studs, set up the bridge washers, start the nuts, then you slide the intake manifold down under the bridge washers and install the bolts. This saves serveral minutes of dropped nuts trying to install them on the bridge washers while reach under and around the intake manifold. It's a common modification we do on the roadsters, but stock on the 240. BTW all the 240's I've worked on had the same "TR" "7" bolts. >> From just doing this work, this is very very true. Using bolts on the very top row for the intake lets you slide the intake from above, directly down into its set place for installation...if studs are there, this would be impossible. With a lot of stuff installed in this area, it's easier with bolts on the top row.

I think the studs go in whatever holes haven't been replaced with bolts! :-) Honestly, any exhaust manifold holes that can use a stud, put one in there--the holes that don't have studs are the very top ones, stock, I think, that are for the intake manifold. Half of mine were already replaced with bolts, so I just kept them. I just went through what post #1 looked like...doesn't look like it, but this is a lot of work, to get it running!!!! I replaced my exhaust manifold, because the original had 2 stripped studs on the flange that went to the rest of the exhaust...got a great deal on ebay on a replacement exhaust manifold ($40 total with shipping) that also had the emission tubing removed and welded up...so I took off all the emission stuff as well....also welded up all holes on balance tube--it looks like the european ones--runs a lot better now, but it was a lot of work to get back to running state from the picture of post #1 !!!!!!

more info, please! If the wiring is exactly the same, there shouldn't be a problem. By not saying the wiring was different, we can't say much...was it the same as a 240? I did the conversion on my 240 and it was very easy--is the installation on your 260 the same?

Putting it in is pretty easy from what I've been told, once it's out. I'd think with having to install the chrome in the rubber before installation, doing it yourself would be the way to go. To fix my defroster I'm doing this as well--I'm also tinting the window so that's why I'm taking it out when I fix the defroster.

Does this mean that the switches in each door jamb might not be grounding, or there might be something wrong with them? Is there anything else that turns on when the doors are opened? I'm not sure on your S30 model.

"250" was an accidental mistype...somebody needs to grow up here... The 350z is a cabin forward modern sports car--besides the name, nothing is similiar to the S30...they may have said they were trying to be retro, but the final product, especially with the cab forward design--doesn't resemble the S30, especially when driving. There's a thread somewhere on here where somebody photoshoped the 350z and added 6-8 inches between the rear of the front wheel well and the door crease. THEN it looks like a S30 and it would probably be more like the S30. The person who buys a 350z is not interested in the classic s30, an unmodified original S30. But, a fellow apt. dweller a few years ago bought a 350z and his first car wash he was in line right after me at the apt's car wash spot--we talked quite a bit about Z this and Z that...but it's apparent it's for a different driver, in my opinion.

dankhoe-- I would think that if your car fired right up when cold from some starting fluid being sprayed in there, that this is a carb issue of some sort.

dankhoe (what a name man!)-- my 10/71 240z has a typical worn out 2.4L motor, original 150k+, original build of carbs, and my car starts idling on its own on maybe the 2nd, sometimes rarely the 3rd turn of the key. If I use a little gas after first started, always one key turn. The amount of cranks of each turn varies. If my car is not started for over a month, it might take 5 cranks, possibly 2 key turns, before catching. It always catches though. I have mechanical fuel pump, until about a month ago, I used the points original dizzy (just upgraded to 280zx distributor--I recommend it!) and never had starting issues, even in the cold, which in the NW is typically 30 degrees F at the worst. But- if my manual stock choke isn't choking the carbs properly (which I haven't ever had any issues--but I do check them occasionally)--my car just won't start, and it will have these same symptoms. If the choke mechanisms are working, my Datsun has a very hard time starting cold without the chokes. Possibly double-check your choke mechanisms and make sure they are working properly; my car is very easy to start up, and besides being tuned up, is a very tired 2.4L....