dogma420

Nacks, Is this another 'upgrade' that anyone should do to their old 240z? Kinda like doing the headlight relay to bypass all the voltage going through the light switch? Let us all know.

yeah one things for sure, you can never get enough information, esp from this website. When you purchase your car, after thinking you know, I DIDN'T! You really have to look carefully at all the popular rust points, see if there are additional paint jobs by looking in the right places, use one of those magnet thingies to see if there is bondo, etc... a LOT of awesome 'hide' work could've been done on the car you're looking at.... Good luck...once you find her, you'll love her regardless, but just remember that as you find things you didn't when you laid out your cash, the hard work and money spend goes up exponentally. You're warned! Mine is a money pit, and I bet there are other members on here who would say the same! Good luck!

lordbiotree....wasn't 240z.org this webpage some years back?

Ben--I am very jealous--those wheels look like they are stock as far as looking perfect! Awesome wheels! I missed all the initial info you might've posted; I was wondering if you could give us (me) a refresher on: 1. where you got them (imported or ?) 2. what shop restored them, what did they do? 3. how much total did you pay in the end... 4. so far, in your opinion (and I know what you'll say, just want to hear it) are you glad you got these, as opposed to rewinds or panasports? I personally think they are so much rarer in the USA that man, they are AWESOME! Thanks! and congrats on making your Zed look so perfect!!!!

Alfadog-- Putting weights on the outside of the wheel gives you much more accurate balance, regardless of how fancy the car or wheel is. If a tire shop puts the weights on the outside, this doesn't reflect badly on the wheel shop.

7T1240Z-- One good tip is that don't try to do the 5/8" hose replacement in one day--at least with removing the hoses and expecting NAPA to have them in stock...when I did mine, they had none of the 5/8" fuel hose in stock (it's not used very much)...they got it in like 5 hours from their warehouse, but if I was relying on NAPA to have it, and I didn't double check ahead of time, it can kinda ruin a quick job. Just .02 of info. If I had to bet, I would say your 5/8" hose on top of the tank that turns 180 degrees from pointing towards the drivers side back to the passenger side and I believe goes into the filler hose at the top is what is leaking. That is what was leaking on my car. My 240 only leaked when I filled up the car, hence the top hose, the 180 degree hose, was leaking at the tank...didn't leak after driving 20 miles or so...so I think this is the place it's probably leaking on your car. It had been leaking for so long, it made the outside of my gas tank all covered with gas, (that I didn't know was happening for quite a while) and it stunk real real bad....I couldn't figure out in the past where this stink was coming from. Once my gas tank was boiled, the stink was gone. It's like driving a new car. No stink now. No leaks. PO had stupidly put 5/8" heater hose in place for this hose, which corroded with gasoline contact. Don't use it.

Hey guys, here is some clarification: Removing the Evap tank as shown in my tech article had NOTHING to do with giving my car more power, or worse, increasing emissions. It had everything to do with reducing the number of points of replacement in the future of these damn fuel line hoses, and points of possible leaking causing fumes to come into the cab. THIS IS THE REASON 100% With that in mind, please keep in mind: 1. One of the tubes that went into the expansion tank goes up to the air filter housing, just like it did before the expansion tank was removed, and fumes are burned EXACTLY as before the tank was there. 2. Vapor hose is attached to the top of the filler hose so extra vapors not going up to the front and getting burned are recycled right back into the tank. There is ZERO fumes escaping. There is however, 10lbs removed from the car, and 3 points of fuel line hose, at least 6 hose clamps, these points of leaks are completely gone, and that was the only basis for this procedure. I also should note that if I wasn't doing the entire gas tank sealing procedure, I would not have just removed my evap. tank--I removed it because it was convenient at the time. Would I just remove the evap. tank without doing the whole gas tank procedure? NO. Thank you.

Headlight replacement isn't anything that would prevent you from purchasing a Zed....possibly negotiate a lower price (which I guess is out with ebay)....anyways, minor items that you suggested shouldn't affect the purchase. Minor rust is always something that I would go inspect and search this forum first for rust. Even a little rust can mean a LOT of rust all over the place, a lot in places you can't see. The No. 1 enemy of the Datsun S30 is rust. Good Luck!

Hey Guys, howdy howdy. I noticed that POR15 sells engine enamels, and I was thinking of giving their product a shot, cause everything I've bought from them has been gold. I want to get the best match, but I'm not concerned about exactness in color. Since I'm dumb when it comes to American blue colors, which of these would be a good match for the 72 240z block? Cadillac Dark Blue Chevrolet Blue Chrysler Blue Ford Blue Ford Corporate Blue Ford Medium Blue These are from the options they have available for enamel colors. Once again, I'm not looking for exactness; just very similiar so anyone (not a judge at a show) would think it looked nice. Thanks for your opinions on which color to choose in advance.

Ron, Are your clocks for $90 adjusted for accurate time before you send or this that default due to quartz movement? Thanks

well an easy way would be one of those Mother brand polishing balls...I'm going to try one this summer on my aluminum wheels. I don't recommend this link, just for pictures...found on google in like 3 seconds... http://www.properautocare.com/mopo1.html You need a power drill, but hey, with Harbor Freight, everyone should have a good drill, huh? **edit--after thinking about it, don't get me wrong--this isn't a substitute for getting a pro job done...more for someone looking for a quick way to just polish their wheels like once a summer after a good clean, like if you're waxing, something like that. Everyone have a good week,

7240z-- Keep in mind my car is Datsun Red...this is neither the standard 'orange' or standard 'red'. It is in the middle. Color code in my signature. Just a FYI, thanks for the stats!

Anyone know if MSA's 6 into 1 header ceramic coated do they coat the inside? and if this header is crap, where can I find one for about the same price, ie. $150 for 6 into 1 mandrel bent with inside/outside ceramic coated..ie about $150-200? Anyone vouch for the bake it yourself ceramic coatings?

Black is a cool color...personally it doesn't look right because it never came in black on a 240z but cool.

Datsun Red of course, the best 'orange'

Just some things to think about: Major rebuilders that combine head combos with blocks don't recommend using an E31 or E88 on a L28 block in most instances. I can find my information but I believe that one of the builders on here would say that. DON'T quote me on that, but from past readings, I believe this to be the case, esp when I pm'd asking some questions. Anyone spending good money on a head rebuild, isn't going to mind having to get a square port header, so I'm not sure why anyone on here would rule out the N47 or P79. Without emissions and milling until you have the desired compression, it's my impression that these can made good head choices as well. You would obviously want to get a 280zx exhaust manifold, or what most folks would do, and that is a square exh port header. Just some words for thought. Have a great Holiday!

No problem, no offense taken. The idea of the copper 180 bender can be attributed to Beandip. I probably never would've of thought of it.

Well any year works, 75+ I guess is best, because they're retractable at the top where they mount on the outside of the plastic panel...so '74 would work... different years either require a little jimmy rigging or if you can, include the lap belts as well.

So what Piper, it still has that stuff...you think 26th would be making this stuff up?

I need the seat belt portion that attaches to above the quarter window...the '3rd point' portion that attaches to the lap belt. Do you still have those? PM me if you do and what you want for them.

yeah, what Gary said! My Dad is a retired plumber of 45 years experience...mainly dealing with welding copper in commerical buildings, doing all plumbing in copper...he knows his copper. He says that copper has no effect on gasoline in a low pressure situation. None whatsoever. He's used copper in various types of situations as I did with my Zed over the years, just never on a Zed...more like a 55 Plymouth or Mercury.

I've read enough...this thread sums up why this forum isn't worth going to anymore. There's a reason why almost none of the old timers post anymore.... There's always a troll with an attitude right around the corner...I'll visit the other sites out there, as this forum is just not worth it anymore. Or I won't visit any...I can work on my rig without the internet, I had just at one point enjoyed sharing what little information I have. It isn't enjoyable anymore. I mean jeeze, this thread should've ended at the 1st reply of 5 quarts. Take care. Everyone have a most excellent Holiday. Try to be safe and enjoy yourselves! ;-)

Thanks mlc. Jackhammer--a reputable radiator shop should be able to seperate each half of your tank and seal it back up. While it was seperated, I'd probably just pound out the dents myself--nothing too fancy, unless you are looking for a perfect looking tank, then maybe inquire about the fixes at the shop or maybe an autobody shop? not sure.

check out my write up on por15'ing the outside and inside of the tank, and some sensible mods as well.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034

Yes, please start a new thread in the future; that would be great!