dogma420

Jackhammer, It is posting like yours that has degraded the forum in the last couple of months. Cut it out if you have nothing nice to say.

Be sure to physically slide your finger on the mating surface of the block at the oil filter plate, to make sure the old gasket is not there. Don't just look at the gasket on the old oil filter....there could of been a 2nd gasket on there and you were just lucky it sealed. Old Jiffylube manager trick....

Blake, When I put AC in my 72 240 next spring/summer, would you say the r134 kit from Courtesy nissan would be the best choice? I would like to go r134...so if I'm in a pinch, I can just shoot a can in the system to get by until it can be 'fixed'....I have done 100s of A/C services when I was a manager at Jiffylube (not even close to your level of exp/)...but I do know that you should do a professional service...just want to go with the 134 so I don't have to worry about paying $50++ to India or what have you for the supposed stuff not made anymore r12. Sorry to ramble... By the way blake, you had a blue z as an avatar right? I've associated you with that picture and I hadn't really looked at your name for a long time...the woodstock kinda through me off...what's up with woodstock? He's a cool bird...he would get his arse kicked by tweety bird however. later all,

Had NO problems with clogs in the inlet/return fuel lines---they were completely sealed up on the outside of the tank with a zip-lock style bag with rubber bands, so I believe this had something to do with it....when I was done shaking the tank and draining out the inside sealer, I quickly blew into the tank to make sure they were clear (just with my mouth), and had no issues...when blowing in, it sounded like NONE of the sealer got into the pipes. I think that this is because the return tube goes in at least 2 inches and that the pickup isn't exactly on the bottom (it's like .5" from the bottom) is why they don't get clogged...If you tried real hard deliberately, you might get them to clog up... It was a pleasant surprise, because before I started this, this was my main concern...afterwards, I would say just do exactly as I did and don't worry about it because they didn't even come close to clogging. Thanks for all the encouraging feedback. I am glad I was able to do this article...good way to try out my new digital camera as well...this article IMO was long long overdue, and now we can just point all questions to it...I tried to do it as a "Idiot's guide to sealing your tank with POR15" so I made it as simple as possible. It really was a simple project, but very time consuming when you only have weekends, and a few hours on a couple of weeknights available. I was very 'anal' about making sure each process was 100% dry and clean and I didn't skimp in any area. I like to make sure I don't have to do anything for at least 10 years on any kind of project like this. I shouldn't have to do anything with my gas tank for a long long time. I don't even know what those grommets from MSA are for....but the 3m sealer and rubber cork plugs cost about $5 total with lots of extras, so I wouldn't have done the $38 anyways. What are those for? EDIT: I think I just figured out that those grommets are for sealing where the hose goes through the floor (seal the metal tube and the fuel hose)...good idea, but too expensive imo...much cheaper (and better imo) just to use some 3m adhesive...plus there's extra left over for any other household/zed project. 3m makes some good stuff. You all have some good Holidays!

enigma-- It's been 5 years...I'm sure egomes isn't waiting for the reply on this thread anymore.....

Related, Does anyone know where you can get a carpet kit that DOESN'T have the strap holes in the back carpet piece? I think I'm going to get rid of the straps and I'd offer them, but mine are 10/71 series III and different....

I'm going to put my antenna switch in that middle plug on the choke/fuse cover, but my car is a series III (10/71)... If this hole cover works for the early ones (and I'm not sure) I'll offer it up for nothing...just pm.

bpilati--- Your attitude sucks...and you should read a little more carefully. It was said that 70/early 71's had the black switch....you obviously have a late 71 (series 2)... You are the one that said you had one like described (early 71) but it actually was a late 71...then said sarcasticly (sp?) that that's what your sig said... Don't post if you have nothing to say.

Take a break from the site? Hard to really understand.....are you investing that much time here? When you have a minute, even 1 minute per week, just check it out...that's all its here for...you don't have to invest a bunch of time to be a member here....I think we can all handle that...I know with my schedule I don't have much time to come on here at all...but if I disappear for a while, its no big deal. Every once in a while I'll think, geeze, I've been so busy I haven't even gone on there for a week (or even 2)...then I'll skim and maybe do a reply (like this one)... Just do that! Don't stay 100% out of the loop! We need those good condition 77-78 280z's out there...when somebody says why don't you just do 240z's, well, your kind of car is why!

By the way, for a radiator replacement / thermostat, you don't need to drain the block; when you disconnect the bottom main hose to the radiator it will drain most of the fluid out...no need to wrestle with the engine drain. The thermostat is a good analogy to the fan clutch--pay for factory so you don't have to do it again. Anything other than factory thermostat you're just gambling with having to take it back out...I've had nothing but problems with thermostats from NAPA/Schucks, etc.

I wonder if some sort of more tinkering is needed along this thought process; I own a '72 240z (Series III) and want to install a new A/C system next summer, but man, my fan just sucks...heats up the car but I doubt it would make the A/C feel great. 1. Along the lines of the lighting relays that take the current out of the light switch and directly to the headlights, does the current go through the switch and if so, is there a way to make a relay to make the switch just a switch and get full juice to the fan? 2. Could the switch controlling low, medium, high, just be a piece of crap switch that if you replaced it, this would help? 3. Has anyone with a 240z done this conversion that is reading this? Your comments...I don't think getting a replacement Nissan fan for the 240 is a solution to help me.....so yes, in this instance, [ian Monster] putting a Honda fan into a Nissan isn't so bad an idea. I've had both cars, and I'd say Honda heater fans are always stronger year for year....at least it isn't a Chevy V8 with a blower! I thought when I first saw this thread, jeeze, the hybridz guys are putting a supercharged honda v-tec in a Zed? Poor shame..... Peace all, happy holidays

uhh, there's this thing called google, you type in "engine blueprinting" and click on the first thing that comes up...you can do this for other things too! http://www.hastingsmfg.com/Service Tips/engine_blueprinting.htm

As far as I've been told, I could have my wheels come off and have the tank scrape on the ground, and it isn't going to chip...rock chips definitely aren't going to have any effect on the tank. None whatsoever I still have some bad door rubber, so a very little tiny bit of that...but redoing the tank didn't have any effect on the traditional exhaust fume problem. Just the stink of the tank is gone, which is completely unrelated.

Just thought I'd let everyone know that I have finished my tech article on re-doing my gas tank on my 72 Z. It can be found here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034 Please comment and ask questions.

Although I'm a Network Admin, I don't have time to figure this one out.... Annoyingly, and randomly, the forum pages will venture off of the window screen, ie. the words continue past the edge of the right side of the window, making you use the slider at the very bottom of the window... But other times, the forums auto-adjust to the size of the window they are open in... Does anyone else have this issue? When building webpages, the page is designed to auto fit or not usually, so I don't know what I could possibly do to my browser to make it fit. I use fully updated IE 6/beta 7...would use Firefox if I found the forums to fit the window. Thanks!

<< Anyway, I think this thread is starting to stray from the classicz preferred topics so I'm gonna go do some research on hybridz.org. >> Enigma, it isn't straying from the preferred topics...a lot of owners here have put 280zx blocks in their 240z/260z/280z....keep talking if you'd like. IT IS NOT OFF TOPIC. hybridz.org! bah humbug. Putting a 280zx block in your 240 doesn't make it a hybrid. (IMO).

Sorry I missed it; I saw the pictures....Beandip's 240 glows! Even in the dark...his resto sure came out great.... I would like to come to the next meet....

Sorry guys, work becons tonight...I have to do a desktop rebuild from scratch for somebody, scheduled at 7 pm and it pays good....please fill me in on what goes down--I was planning on a beer, so somebody drink one for me.

uhh...I don't think rolling down them would work! I don't think you can drive a z up on ramps without damage either...they just work great after **jacking it up with a floor jack** as a stable place to put the car....

<< its just a bunch of young car guys who don't have the $$$ to do all the right things to make their car a real goer and happen to like Japanese sedans and such >> 240zx, Some of these guys spend 20,000 on extras, and that's on a new car...I don't see how that isn't having the money...it's that they spend all this money to make their cars look rediculous...that's what ricey is to me.... The white guages themselves look okay, but you really want them because of the lights being so dim on the guages--do like Tomo and upgrade the bulbs first.

I drive my Z in the rain quite a bit, and the brakes work fine (72 z)...maybe a little less braking than a comparable newer style car in the rain, but nothing out of the ordinary.

bpilati-- The Z isn't in that position anymore, it just looks good, like a woman with her arse in the air...

Uhh guys, Bruce Palmer who just posted is the owner of Z therapy...if want to ask any of these questions to him, do it.

those look like them. However, if you're going to essentially 'toss' your current stock type air cleaner, your best bet is to just cut out the air horns in the stock air filter housing and use those....they can't be seen, and the stock ones are the best designed ones anyways.

Well that's it. Some things I learned, and some rambling: 1. POR15 stuff is the real deal. This stuff is great. 2. All pictures were taken with a Canon SD500 Digital elph. Auto Focus, because I bought it for my girlfriend. 5 megapixels. Great Camera. Easily takes good pictures. 3. The sending unit is doomed to suck, as I found out a new one still has the same issues--goes up to 1/2 tank very quickly, sits there, and slowly goes to E....the wire piece on the sending unit is wound evenly through its motion, so I deduce that this is why this occurs...but I don't think I'll have to question its operation anymore. 4. Car runs great, no issues from my tank operations. Does need a new exhaust/brakes/tie rod ends replaced, but it runs great! Please respond now if you'd like.