dogma420

Used liquid electrical tape--I love this stuff.

I had no connectors, so I used 2 nickle eye-let type connectors, bent 90 degrees, soldered them to the sending unit stalks, and then used liquid electrical tape to seal them.

Although my plastic piece was in great shape, I traded it for a 3/8 copper piece 2 inches long. I couldn't get the new 5/8" fuel hose to go over it anyhow!

Not professional, just making sure I don't have to pull the tank out again to repair....had no rust other than 2 small spots where tank rubbed....

See title...

Shot of cap on vent hose on far driver's side of tank with JB weld curing on it--worked like a charm!

Picture of sealant curing...what you see is about a 1/8" puddle that I just let cure...at this point I also blew air (just with my mouth) through the inlet/return fuel lines...not even a hint of getting any sealant up in those lines by the way.

Picture showing the plug without jb weld and the package of JB Weld; I decided to try the fast curing product because I've never used it before--works great by the way.

Macro shot of the plug I used, showing the threads having been grinded out for a perfect fit...

This method of draining the tank didn't work for me because my drain hole is higher than the surrounding sheet metal because of a dent...

The boy knows this is going to be his car someday!

I decided to drain from the filler hose hole because the bottom of my tank has been dented, making the drain hole NOT the lowest point of the tank....

Notice my offspring behind me, Devin, showing off for the camera....

Picture showing me stirring the tank sealer. All POR products should be stirred to avoid bubbles--which compromise the coating if there are bubbles.

Note: I did away with the zip ties because they leaked; I used multiple rubber bands instead, which worked real well.

The old fuel gauge sending unit came in handy to seal the tank during the inside process...I cut off the floating rod to make it work better.

Picture showing the bottom of the tank...before the chassis black has been applied. All the rain Portland got during the cursed Rose Festival is showing in this picture.

Picture showing POR15...notice how shiny this stuff is!

I POR15 the tank in two steps, the top to the seam, and then after drying the next day flipped it and did the bottom.

POR15 has some thick 'bits' in it, so it is a little bit thicker than paint, something like paint having sat out for a 1/2 hour or so consistency. Don't let dry on anything! hang right after applying.

POR recommends using a plastic piece between lid and can, so I used a sandwich ziplock baggy, which worked really well, and I was able to reuse the POR15 3 or 4 times of opening.

Scooping the POR15 into my tuna can...so I can use it!

Stirring the POR15, and no I'm not pregnant.

I used very very clean tuna fish cans for pouring the POR15 into, used plastic cups (from a restaurant) to scoop it out of the can, used old corn dog sticks to stir (also used plastic knives). Shows gloves and brush as well.

Spraying the straps with Metal ready.