dogma420

Derek-- Taking the tank out is very easy actually. I just did it 2 weeks ago... 1. Lift up the rear with jack stands...you will need to remove the passenger rear tire so do this as you're lifting the rig 2. Remove the access panel in the rear of the passenger rear wheel well..this gives you great access to the filler hose clamp and getting that hose off is easier. You can also see the wires for the sending unit through this and the inlet/return fuel lines that go to the motor. 3. (this step describes my 72 so it might be different for yours) There's 3 vents...one on the driver's side by the muffler (goes to the filler hose), one near the sending unit in the front passenger side (goes to the motor in the front), and one on top in the rear (went to my expansion tank), on the passenger side next to the wheel well...this is the one that more than likely will have a 180 degree turn in it...some tanks don't have this, but most do...my does. 4. when you're dropping it, make sure all gas is removed...either drain from drain plug or if you don't want to risk the plug being a source of a future leak, use your electric pump, by turning on the ignition and draining at the front of the car (you may have to hook up a make shift 12v lead to it).... 5. remove the 2 bands that hold the tank in place...if its empty of gas, the fuel lines/vent lines are going to hold it in place....carefully take all of them off one by one and it will slowly lower down the more of the hoses you take off, and I left the filler hose attached and removed it last, so when all other hoses were removed, the vent was holding it at a 45 degree angle. Read my caution below regarding do this however. 6. With the tank out, I would recommend what I am doing--replace all vent lines--the 180 degree hose is too expensive (80+ bucks) so I am doing a 180 degree copper piping (like a plumber would do)(thanks to Scanlon and Beandip for this idea)...I am actually getting rid of the expansion tank, but still have a vent to the filler and a vent going to the front to burn gases for the environment...I am replacing both pickup and return rubber lines, and I am replacing the sending unit with a new nissan one from MSA (it was $40 I believe)...my wires were all screwed up to the sending unit, so I am soldering the wires to the sending unit as I don't have the original connectors, and once this is done, I don't want to have to do it again. After soldering them they will get a liberal amount of liquid electrical tape to seal them from moisture. One more word of caution--my filler hose is in REAL GOOD SHAPE...if it appears to be brittle at all or not in good shape, I wouldn't recommend dropping the tank with this being the thing that holds it in place---but if it isn't in good shape, it must be replaced....getting rid of all fuel problems associated with leaks and smells is something that you should all do at once if you're pulling out the tank. Once the inspection door is off in the wheel well, feel and squeeze your filler hose...you can tell if it is in decent shape or not by doing this and also how the outside of the hose looks...leaks are going to look like stains, etc on the outside. good luck, and remember, pulling the tank is easier than you might think at first thought. To me it was. Let us know how it goes!

sblake01-- You say that fuel injected car's gas tank has baffles/nooks and crannies... Quick question--is this gas tank any different from my 72's gas tank? I though 70-78 was very similiar.... I just bought the POR15 gas tank sealer, and enough POR15 to coat the outside of my tank. I had very minor surface rust when I pulled it out to replace the vent hoses and sending unit. I am going to do a full write up with pictures on how to do the por15 tank treatment. I am having a radiator shop dip the tank right as we speak for 3 days to get all the crud off of it inside and out...I'll let everyone know how it goes.

the picture z babe just posted is what is in 70-73 240z's in the US....easily confirmed by going through the photo galleries....it's what is in my 72 240z as well.

I hear your pain...i think we've all in this situation before, cause they're morons in Portland too...wish sometimes I could get away with being a moron every once in a while in my job! Bill--what'd you expect from a female blond in a parts store? That is even worse than your run of the mill generic moron...

replacing wires if you are replacing the dist cap makes it easy...setup the wires on the new cap without removing the old one so you have a good reference right there to look at...

Don't knock Fords, afterall, the 1.9L Escort was a hemi...heh. While we're on the odo subject, this is how mine works: You can reset it to 000 but eventually gets caught on a random number, like 2 and will then line up 222 and just go 222 333 444 555 666....cable looks fine on a visual inspection.... Does this sound like a cable or a odo problem? Tom--how did the cable work itself into a knot? If both ends are attached, a literal knot is pretty cool! And yeah, I tried C4 and it didn't work. Washing the exterior didn't help the odo either.

Well, the early E88 is the desireable head--before approx August 72...normally, I'd say if it had round top SUs stock I think this is the head--like on my 240.

Luckily Carl, my glove box is original and in great shape! I think this has to do with the fact that it can't rust!

The pressure plate, clutch disc, and collar must match each other. 280 clutch disc definitely won't work with a 240 pressure plate, and vice versa.

I have a 73 240z drivers door I would part with. It's copper color with the brown interior...full glass...has a trim piece added however, to the body line on the outside. No hinges.

Does anyone know where to get a new automatic antenna that looks very similiar to the original (excluding the one from MSA)....and it isn't on ebay?

I actually just found someone that sells repro plastic ones...they are charging $59.99 and I think that's too much. They are also selling the glove box for 240s for $40... http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html I think $59.99 would be too much even for the metal ones, but I would consider it when you factor in they shouldn't break, and last a long long time.

the spoiler isn't going to help with the fumes...might make em worse.

I would try VB last, because they are just part of a large company that sells parts for almost every vehicle out there....the old Ford Bronco parts catalog is layed out exactly like the VB catalog, and its the same company. They have a catalog for every make/model that is worth selling parts for....in other words not as personable as lets say MSA...if it doesn't fit from MSA they will care more than VB. they are like JC Whitney, only a distributor. Not saying that MSA isn't a distributor, but they are people who like Zs. Just 2 cents

Is the end of the antenna (the chrome tip) shaped correctly?

Yeah, I'm still thinking about it. Thanks for the input. It's so minor I was thinking of not doing anything, so I was thinking the metal ready alone would be ok...its really minor...it's just that i'm picky...so I may do the whole thing...or not...we'll see.

Since my rust is minor and just surface, I'm thinking of just using the Metal Ready product from Por15--actually just letting it pool inside the tank for a few days. sounds a lot easier and less expensive than sealing it.

yes, I'll let you know, and I'll take some pictures as well. Quick new question---I do have some surface rust on the very bottom of my tank on the inside--I would say enough to want to do something about it--the rest of the inside is just fine... Sorry I don't have any pictures. Anything I can do for this? It's really not worth getting the whole thing sealed, but could be the start of something worse... Any ideas/experiences would be appreciated. The POR15 tank liner guy---can you chime in with your experience a little more in detail...I'm thinking I may do that kit (blowing air through gas tubes right after however--lightly). Or I might just leave it...after 34 years, if its only that little bit, I'd say that's pretty good.

You're right, my bad on the ties vs. the balls.... Hey 26th, when judging, can you tell the difference between sizes, and does it matter on stock class? Even if I was going for a 100% original, and the ball joints needed to be replaced, I would want the larger ones. Just my opinion--because I'd drive it! Now if you never drove it, maybe...but how can you have a perfect Z and not drive it on a nice Summer day? Have a good one guys,

If i don't find the correct connectors, I am going to soldier the wires to the sending unit; I have been told these sending unit connectors are soft metal, so I am going to try with one of these new 'cold soldier guns' they sell at Costco.... Picture: http://i24.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/44/62/39_1_b.JPG My dad just got one, its in the package still; it has a tip like a soldier gun, but heats up and cools down in a split second and its really small and battery operated...I think this might be the ticket for a better than stock connection; I will keep you all informed and take some pictures this weekend. Once soldiered, I plan on applying some liquid electrical tape. I don't like to modify original, but if I can make it better than original (see-->last much longer) than I don't have any problems with it.

Good tip Ken! Thanks, as I am about to change my rubbers on the doors...this tip probably saved me further cracking (doesn't appear as though I have any now).... ;-)

the 14mm ones are about $20 each at the most (outer tie rods)... Only original guys are gonna go for that--pm 26th Z!

I would say this ISN'T fluid related--I would say it is clutch related....if the clutch isn't being disengaged all the way, it would show up first at the 1st to 2nd shift point.... ? How is the shift from neutral to 1st? ? How is the shift from neutral to reverse? If either of these are harder than they should be, this could be because the clutch needs to be adjusted; if the slave is auto adjust, adjust at the clutch pedal... If you changed your oil well after driving your vehicle after the clutch components have been replaced (say you didn't, cause that's not what I would've done! and I'm a normal grease monkey) then we'll be back to square one.... ok, now I see it's a 78 280z....If your fluid was changed when you did the clutch items, I would definitely adjust at the clutch pedal a little bit....have the piston push a little more in the fully engaged position (with your foot OFF the clutch)...just a micro adjustment at a time, like quarter to half a turn...its really sensitive...I had to do this on my 72 when I went with a 78 5 speed and installed all new clutch hardware (including a new master/slave and steel braided)....I had hard shifts from n-1st and 1st-2nd also n-reverse...once adjusted at the pedal (the thingy that pushes on the piston is adjustable) my rig has ran beautifully! Hope this helps!

no mean words meant at all; just stating my ipin... I do carry my spare and jack / along with about 10lbs of tools in my cubby holes....like a boy scout.... I have never gotten a flat, other than a slow leaker that was easy to get to the repair shop driving it....

arrogant? Man, I don't care what you say...as a courtesy, I'm one of those guys who always opens the door for a lady, and always let them out of the elevator first....its those ladies who don't mind at all a man stopping to ask if they need any help on the side of the road---and it has nothing to do with 'trying to score or whatever' its what a gentleman does...even if they say they don't need your help (which most of the time is true, cause they just called AAA or whatever) but it really is the gentleman thought that counts. Tomohawk, let me guess, you're an ohio state fan, right? heh.