dogma420

The problem is KDMatt, that they rig when you go to buy it isn't going to 'run smoothly' and that's something you have to learn how to make it do on your own; most of the ones with 'door dings/small rust' aren't going to run too well when you go try them out....you have to make them run well. I guess this is easier, if you are looking at a fuel injected zed, it will either run better or not (i'd take it through any emission testing before buying)....the SU carb setup can take a little work to get down (as far as synching is concerned) but one you get it, they are real easy to synch. Good luck!

Well, thanks for the info Carl, My issue is that the PO had just wire twisted the sending unit wires onto the stalks (I was wondering why my sending unit wasn't working too well)... MSA sells the nissan one...I called Beaverton Nissan, the parts guy told me 'we're too busy, I'll call you back'...well 8 hours later I decided to order from MSA...$40 for my 72 240...so it was $5 more but hey, at least they took my call! Got a new o ring ($2) and retaining ring (~$3) as well. Since the PO took off the original connectors, before I look, maybe someone on here can set me up when I go to the big ACE hardware here in Portland (with the sending unit in hand)...I would rather get original connectors, but I have never seen any that look like that...(see link below)...I was thinking of just soldiering my wires to the connectors (does it matter which connector goes to where? I do know about the 3rd wire being connected to chassis for ground).... Any input would be much appreciated. By the way, there are 2 sending units, one for 70-73 and one for 74-78 so it is possible they are very different prices, but I don't think they are...I think the connectors are different, that's all...MSAs price is almost the same...where did the $170 quote come from? Heh...selling ice to an eskimo.... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2269

why are pants plural and braziere (sp) singular?

... I can just see it now... "Uh lady, you need help with that flat?" "Yes" "Uh, let me go get my jack! Oh and can you still get your spare out, lady!" ....man, that sounds like boarder-line insane man. Like go back into the woods and live...heh.

the helix....it's not an auto tranny...if it was, it would be totally hosed with 80/90 in it....80/90 is GL4...that should work fine... did you fill it until it started to spill out of the check plug? I used 75/90 gear oil, not much different, this might be the ticket for easier 1 to 2nd shifting, but this shouldn't really make a difference.... You could just try a 2nd change with just 80/90 or go 75/90...got nothing to lose,....just changing the fluid shouldn't cause this problem...if its been a real long long time between changes it might (i say might) make a difference but doutful.

Actually just figured out how to remove, with a screwdriver, hammered on one of the retaining ring grooves. (gently of course) The female connectors on the ends of the wires? anyone know where to ge those? they don't look too standard.

couple of quick questions related to this thread--don't sue me, I did a search.... Just pulled my gas tank; my sending unit is going to be replaced, and I noticed that the PO jimmy rigged the contacts to the sending unit something bad.... 1. what is the easiest way to get the retaining ring off of the sending unit so I can take it out? 2. noticed that normally, the female ends on the wires look sort of different; are these available through any source? Thank you in advance,

if it isn't a daily driver, a good suspect would be that the slave cylinder for the clutch is rusted in the disengaged position, making it feel like you have the clutch pedal on the floor....this happened to me. Replace the slave and it's back to working order...

After looking through some stuff, I really like the 240k's....is this the USAs B210? or is there just nothing equivalent over here in the States? Older Nissan/Datsuns, even non Zeds are pretty good cars, imo. Good to see you guys doing some stuff to the pretty cool 240ks.

you know the thrill of checking out a Zed now....so soak up all the info on here you can find and go look at one when you find one for sale....the more you do it, the better you will get at it.

If I had to make an educated guess, I would say the 77 and 78 280z's have a different cover, since it seems they changed a lot on the 77/78. I would think the 76 model year has the same cover as the earlier models.

How about a completely wasted distributor screwing up advance, etc... I had a similiar problem to yours, replaced the dist but also adjusted carbs at the same time (something you don't have an issue with)...so I'm not sure what really fixed the idle issue...

You are correct; use a 1/2 drive ratchet/breaker.....I don't know of any other tool that works well on a real tight diff plug on a zed....if usings a 1/2" ratchet, make sure its a heavy duty one, because yes, you could trash it, sometimes these are on tight, and like I said previously, make the ratchet longer for leverage.

fill out your profile information with where you live.

here's what i'd do imo: 1. forget about this car. Just hearing that some floor pans were bolted in place means this car should be forgotten about. 2. you are new to this forum; soak up all the info you can about Zs on this site---a LOT of info, that you'll go---"Geeze, I should've read all this stuff before I bought!"---also go to www.zhome.com and check out all the articles--very helpful as well. there are many many many more sites to look at as well...just search on google 'datsun z' or '240z'...you will find a lot...240z will bring up more sites than 280z will (and the car's major points you need to learn about are the same). 3. after gaining some knowledge...using patience (we're talking Yoda type patience) search for another 77-78 280z (or even older but by how you talk look for a 77-78 5 speed 280z).....don't buy until you check out the rust factor and how it drives. 4. after looking, go get another one---bolted on floor pans? this means his rocker panels have got to be compromised in some fashion--avoid this car IMO.

to be a real Zed freak, you are going to have to get good at replacing all 4 u joints on those halfshafts. I have had to do it twice; the passenger outer u joint seems to always go first (the wheel that drives the most)...the needles all fall out...recommend splicer u joints (seem to work best)...first time you do this, the whole operation takes about 3 hours...the 2nd time, 1/2 the time (about an hour and a half)...you get real good at replacing the u joints! Good luck, and after replacing all 4, the drive gets a lot tighter...if the rubber mount on the diff hasn't been replaced for a long time, it more than likely needs replacing as well and is causing a little of the bump (but the ujoint will really make the clunk sound!)....

with a little patience you can probably find a rust free one used in a junk yard or for sale....I'd recommend looking into the por15 solution...looks like once that was done, its not ever going to rust again.

use a 5 or 6 inch 1/2 inch extension (maybe it has to be a 3"), put this into a large 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar or torque wrench (long enough to go over the mustache bar, short enough to still fit and get leverage)....even put a pipe breaker bar on it for leverage...get a good 'catch' or grip on it (it you are being careless you can strip it)....and it will come out....sometimes you need 2 feet of breaker bar, but it will break free if done correctly....you are really only trying to 'break' the siezed action of the check plug...once it moves a little, it will be pretty easy to get out normally. 15 years ago I worked at Jiffy lube as a manager...I was always the guy to have to come downstairs and break these (but they were normally in a Nissan Pathfinder at the time)(that's the qualification for becoming a manager)....they always come out if done correctly...well I take that back...probably 1% are the kind that won't come out (but that 1% is normally due to stripping).... Good luck!

and the guy selling it doesn't even sound 10% as crazy as the arizona peyote eating guy selling those 6 z's on ebay.... But could have a lot of good ol' Oregon rain rust....geeze for the price, and first glance, that's a pretty good lookin Z. If I needed a spare I would go get it!

i think i recall seeing them in the blue color....could be wrong....but I think 99% of them are black, so I would just do black.... Anyone who wants them different can change them.

your right, that might be your rocker...just that one picture, heh...looks like the grand canyon...if its a rocker its a lot easier

a noob is short for a new-bie noo-b someone that doesn't know squat about something and isn't afraid to say it, or a way to call someone a name and it isn't as bad as calling them a dumba$$, or whatever, heh.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but....your Z has as much rust as any of the rusty old zeds i've ever seen. It isn't the end of the world, you are just in the same boat as all of us...i bet if the tar was taken off of your floor pans you'd see a lot more too....looks like your foot rest pedal is all rusty as well...having to replace the passenger side floor pan on my rig looks lucky compared to that rail problem you got. But it is all repairable with time....but if you have someone do it, you are talking a LOT of $$$....i would do it myself and learn! (do like all of us and get a daily driver!)

My 72 is a natural ice cream zed.... She's a creamcicle.... Orange on the outside, white on the inside.