dogma420

The pictures are taking up space on classiczcars.com...that's all. I didn't mean any other server. You have to remember, every picture added here keeps adding up--it's kind of like when somebody tells you to pick up your garbage, leave it pristine for the next person--the same kind of thought should be taken with our website--lets not leave a bunch of stuff if we don't have to. Anytime a picture is added, it contributes to the capacity that the server can hold, and eventually, Mike will have to upgrade the server's capacity, and that's why I bring it up. Don't want to start anything, just in the long run, we don't need the pictures here. I didn't mean to cause some hate or anything on here, just that we can go look at the car while it's on ebay and that's cool.. It's not that special to keep the pictures available after the auction. The red with the tan/black looks slightly strange on a S30...

Mohamed-- It's NOT transmission fluid. This fluid that has been found is from the cooling system, the green caused by anti-freeze.

Leaking green on the passenger front floor is a leak coming from something in the heater core area (that green is antifreeze), more than likely one of the hoses where it attaches to the hot/cold temp valve, or the valve itself. I would recommend refurbishing everything in this area if/when the repair is made, such as replacing both hoses, valve, and getting the heater core checked out for leaks, etc.

Why put the pictures on the server? It's not very hard to go to the link, and they are just taking up space for no reason at all, unless you are donating some $$$ to Mike's cause.

Outer tie rods--the 'shimmy' will be more pronounced when braking vs. cruising....also, when front end is off the ground with wheels off, you would be able to shake the rotor side to side if the tie rod is worn out. This could be any number of things; I would click on 'search' at above, and enter "steering wheel shake or shimmy"--this topic has been created a lot of times on here.

You have to reduce them also, nothing in original size, ie. 1.4 mb....etc.

Thanks for the quick reply! Ahh, that's why I don't see it, I don't have that bendy thingy on my new tranny... Does anyone have one out there they'd like to give or trade for something small? :-)

why replace it? The grid is just going to wear out eventually on the one you purchase, so you'll have to refurbish it sooner or later... ? Is it going to match you paint?

After working on my motor, I noticed that after I replaced my 4 speed tranny with my 5 speed one, that the speedo cable is just coming out of the firewall, and running over the bell housing and over and down to the connection on the tranny. It is just running under the SU coolant hose pipe (for heating up the carbs) and is loose. Specifically, is it supposed to be attached in some way, off the bellhousing? Doesn't seem to be attached to anything between firewall and tranny. Thanks in advance for reading/replying. Searches did not find anything pertaining to this subject.

I don't think a real Z enthusiast could do something like this--If he was one, this automatically excludes him from that description.

an alternative to boiling is to soap up the rubber part, or spray with hairspray so it goes in real easy. The hairspray, once dry, also locks it in place, so to speak.

Hawk-- There's no magic genie formula here. Here's where you can get some conductive silver paint: http://www.semicro.org/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2 Buy some, mask off your grid lines on your window, paint, let dry, remove the tape, and hook back up. Wolla! You have your defroster back, as good as new. What I'm doing is, since my rear glass rubber is worn out anyways, and I want to add some very dark tint--to save some new white plastic panels I will be getting (my old ones are all brittle due to the Sun)-- I'm removing the rear glass...doing the grid lines with the window out, and once tested, taking the glass to the tint shop...in Portland, OR there's a shop that if I take the window into the tint shop, the cost to tint it is only $30. Then put it back in with a new rubber gasket--and it's as good as new! Or, request a JC Whitney catalog--they have some pretty good defroster heaters w/ a fan that clip to something, like the hatch shock, or something like that. Pretty cheesy though, when you can re-paint the grid lines though.

Stephen-- I took out my 4 speed manual from my 72 240z and put a '77 5 speed in it--love it, because gears 1 through 4 are exactly the same. It's like I have the same transmission in it, except there's a 5 gear for the highway. Of course, I haven't actually pulled the gears out and compared, but from my past research before getting the tranny, and from informatin I have seen, I got this tranny over the 'better' later 5 speed simply because I liked the ratios of the 240z 4 speed and wanted to keep them. I will simply live with the 5th gear shift fork being slightly more prone to having issues over the later one. Course I could be wrong, but I drove the 4 speed one day (for the last 40k) and then 3 days later drove the 5 speed, and it was the same tranny in ratios. I think if I had to choose, from a 280 to a 240, it used to be that if you got a 240 you'd have to start replacing everything because it was getting old, but that now applies to a 280. Since all items are getting the point of having to be replaced, a 280 will save probably a little money in the same type of parts, but the 280 has more parts as well. Having owned both, I definitely would go for a 240...the 280 is not 'more solid', at least it doesn't feel that way...(I know, that the unibody has a little bit more metal to it) it is heavier, so it feels 'more solid'. True, it didn't come with a rear sway, so that's why I put my own on my 240. Fiddling with carbs? At first, I spent about 4 hours learning SUs and then they're pretty easy...they are such a simply design...if you are having issues with the SUs vs. having issues with the fuel injection, I would probably choose the SUs (240z) over the 280's fuel injection. However, I am one to keep a full set of tools, along with a bunch of shop towels, in my 240 and have a few times, had to work on my car on the side of the road...last year I had to snag a squeegee from a gas station and have my arm out the window squeeging the window on the way home because my wiper linkage busted, going home from work! Anyways, if you enjoy working on your car, imo I like the 240 better. I also had a 260z, and the computer brain died, and when it did, it took forever to figure out that that was the problem...nothing like that happens on my 240. Stephen I have always thought of as the 280z guy, and his car is an awesome example of a nice 280z, if you are considering a 280z I would talk to him more. His blue 280z is a great example of why a 280z would be a great choice.

It's hard to believe in our day and age somebody can so blatenly (sp?) rip somebody off like that and get away with it. Makes you feel sick to your stomach.

Gosh, that is awful man! I feel for you. I hope nothing but good things from this point on for you and your troubles dealing with this car! It sounds like you are actually taking it pretty well, considering, so bravo to your positive attitude in this situation!

That seperating thread is a killer on steering wheel vibration...and it seems it only happens often enough that you totally forget about that being a possible solution to the problem! That's why I like Les Schwab up in NW USA because they do free balancing/rotations as long as you buy your tires there. They will also resipe the tires if it's ever needed again for free--if you originally had them siped. I very much recommend siping--it seemed to help quite a bit in the rain helping me grip the slick road better. Another thing to consider after all suspension has been gone through, steering rack stuff, tires/wheels balance/seperating, brakes, alignment, is that if you've ever had a front end wreck, that could also factor in. My first Z that I had had a heavy front end wreck (and it was repaired very nice on the outside when I bought it)...but they could never repair the unibody back to original, kinda like a scar on a human. That's always a possible, a bad one at that.

KTM== I understand what you are saying...I guess in my experience, I wanted to make sure everything matched the 5 speed as far as clutch stuff, because the throwout bearing and fork were in perfect condition on the 5 speed, and I just didn't want to use the manual adjusting clutch slave from my 72 when I could have a self adjusting one with the 5 speed. IF you have a great condition clutch, it would make sense to keep everything the same--there is just a gap between each type of fork/throw out bearing and that's why they need to match whatever clutch is in there. It's not fun to put a 5 speed in with a 5 speed fork/throw out, and have a 4 speed 72 clutch in there...it's called neutral in all gears!

You're kidding! You don't have the title? How could that happen? Either the paperwork or the signed title should be in his hand, and your hand has the $$$ and you switch items in your hands.... I guess Ebay kind of changes that series of events, huh?

Take a picture!

if it vibrates when slowing down, it could be bad tie rod ends or warped rotors.

It's very common for the oil pressure sending units to go out on the S30s. It seems that you can go through quite a few...or you'll come across one that lasts forever...my current one has lasted for a long time. Although my older 72 tach is a little different mechanically, I believe there's a couple of transistors or diodes on the board inside the tach that overheat and give intermittent signals. My tach seems to misbehave on hotter days than cold days. There is no 'cable' like on a speedometer.

To answer that, most of us would have to search around to make sure are facts are straight etc...I'd start by checking out searched posts and threads. For the 5 speed, you will need to make sure your clutch matches the 5 speed transmission. You would want a same year clutch slave, clutch parts. Everything else should work-- except is your transmission hole in a different spot? I can't remember...I know it's in the correct position on my 72, anyone else out there to confirm the 70 model--is the tranny hole in a different spot? The 240 came with a R180, so most items in the back would have to be changed out for a R200--mustache bar, halfshafts, etc.

I have a driver's side...I'd have to double check, might have a passengers as well...off of a 73... I'm in Portland...too far? Let me know I can double check...

Save money and keep the best setup (non race), the SUs!! esp. with the stock air filter housing (pre 73)... Best no-brainer in the history of the world (to quote a local mortgage radio ad)... Fuel/air has a straight line to the head with the 3 carb / SU setup...the 4 barrel setup, the air/fuel has a lot of travel to go through, and it's not in a straight line. I've heard of people on here doing that setup, but eventually going back to the SU setup...as there isn't a significant increase in anything...

well, ovens are pretty big if the rack is placed on the bottom element...i guess it would be regular size... I can fit a header in mine...it doesn't slide in perfect however... I remember there being a product (NON chrome) or such that is like the jet white coating you could spray and bake....but I'm not that concerned...I'm not even using a header...I was just askin'....no biggie....