dogma420

cremmenga.... So many people are viewing/posting because we all are seeing if you'll change your mind...many a Z has gotten a V8...and this site (at least in general, not everybody) really is pulling for you to keep the 6....when I beat a V8...man it just means so much more that I show them my 6....nobody and I mean nobody is going drop their jaw when you beat them and then tell them that yeah, it has a V8 in it...its like cheating. Rebuild a L28, shave the head so you're pulling something like 11:1...put triple carbs on it, wild cam, and a turbo... You will get 400hp, and you will go through rear ends.... But like Ed said---It's YOUR car, and YOU can do whatever you want... If you go the V8 route, good luck....just keep your 6 for when you put it back in! Just kiddin....

WOOPS doh! Those are Rewinds...my bad! Those are what I want to get! Same color and everything for my Datsun Red vehicle...thanks for posting so I know what they will look like....so 245s would fit, huh? Good advice. Thanks PS. put one of those pictures in your avatar, good looking lime car!

They look awesome! If you got them from MSA, a few questions: 1. Why 15 and not 16 inch diameter? 2. Why not Koenig Rewinds? Almost half price and look almost exactly the same? Just curious because I'm going to be getting wheels very soon and your input would be appreciative.

Ron's link has a pretty good looking car. I like A better than B but yeah, it does look too much like S30

Sorry that happened Ricklandia...probably not a reputable seller... Good News! There will be another set of tail lights, even just the drivers side...just takes time...also be sure there is a parts wanted posting in the classifieds section of the forum. For now, email the guy wanting a cheap front air damn, and ask him what he does with his broken tail lights, he probably wraps them in red cellophane (sp?)....

yes kats! Take some pics

Kats, Ignore everything Tomohawk says...we all do...

The answer is still NO because you aren't going to use the EFI. If you're using carbs, all you need is the 280zx block with head attached...that's it.

just pretend it is the same motor...the block is the same, the head will look pretty much the same on the outside as well...might be different shaped ports on the head, but that's about it. If your 73 has points, using the 80zx dist is better, as its electronic, the ignition brain is right on the side of the dist...search this, its everywhere on how to do the dist conversion. All of your stuff will work on that motor. No cutting up of the floor for the 5 speed, the cutting is only if you have a Series I 240z (pre mid 71). It will bolt right in your 73. Good luck!

Kats, I would say (excluding color) your car is more original than one of the 'factory' restores.... just looking at your coolant hoses/brake booster hose says it all.... Love the color Kats...for a non stock color, that is one pretty car!

73 240z has illuminated heater area....if your rig isn't a 73, then its from a 73. (assuming we're talking about 240z's here)

Chino 240z said: I warmed the nuts up and they came right off Man, that's gotta hurt! Seriously though, the bolt thing for the diff. studs w/ must. bar is a good idea...Nissan is the #1 car maker in the world in regards to labor spent per vehicle (they spend the least)...those studs on the diff are a good example...they of course put it all together outside of the rig....ever checked any of the newer Infiniti/Nissan oil filter locations? obviously engineered for putting the filter on while the motor is not installed....heh Next time I take the bar off I will probably put those bolts in....good idea guys....see? I learn something new every day!

Go ahead and get one of the old style bug deflectors for a truck or van...they are flat and stand vertical...same effect as an air damn, and you won't have any bug splatters either. Just my .0000234 cents.

Well be sure to set the motor back so the dist. is almost touching the firewall...and remember, a 240 without reinforcement to the unibody is probably going to have to be reinforced with 400hp....better to use a 280 for a v8. A stock V8 (225-250 hp) will dust just about any hi pro V8 car due to how light they are.... If the motor is put in the scarab position (so the weight is on the front tires) you will have issues with handling and steering, so putting the motor back will put more weight on the rear distribution... Just my .02 dollars.

EScanlon wrote: but sometimes it hides rust in the seam between floorpan and firewall If there is one place in the interior a 'rust free' rig is going to have a problem, it is this place on the passenger side. I would say that conservitively 50% of all floor pan replacements on the passenger side are this spot. I know mine is in this group! Even a stored Z in a thermostaticly controlled environment that has never seen daylight is going to have some surface rust, if not inside the frame rails in the front....There is no such thing as an original 'rust free' Z... I think someone that has completely gone through and restored a Zed unibody could possibly boast 'rust free' but if it's original, without restore, there is going to be some rust...that is the nature of the Zed. You can go do laps at PIR, you just have to be at the very least, invited by a group....I have a friend that has a Porsche 944 (and belongs to the local Porsche group) and he will invite me to go out if I want...just don't know if it interests me, along the lines EScanlon was saying....

Carl, No, I had no trouble removing the nuts on the 2 studs that are on the backing plate.... It was actually easy to get off, cause i left it attached to the backing plate and took out all the backing plate bolts and just slid it off... Putting it back on was tricky, because I separated the mustache bar from the back plate and sealed the diff back up (with the must bar still removed)...you have to kind of jimmy it back in...but I got it back in...nice leak free R180 now...used new MSA gasket and gasket sealer on both sides of gasket (very little)....first time I replaced the fluid myself....I am proud! Heh...

Cremmenga, What does that name stand for? I wouldn't recommend a V8 in it...if you beat these cavemen with a v8, they're just going to say something like 'yeah, told you you needed a big american v8 to compete, boy'. One thing to learn from this website is that having a Nissan motor in your rig is the way to go. Otherwise, see hybridz' website. With the light weight of the vehicle, a slightly modified L series motor will beat just about anything unless its super pumped up. My rig is stock 2.4 and I beat a lot of 5.0 mustangs off the line, etc...so don't be surprised that you don't have to twin turbo and spend giant amounts of cash to have a pretty darn good off the line I6. Putting a V8 in isn't going to one up those guys; it will just reinforce what they already think they know. Just my .02 dollars.

SuperDave, For I think it was $259.99 last summer (2004) I got a box that was sealed at the company Suspension Techniques...one big box for each sway bar. All hardware was included for each end...the 2 brackets that add the extra holes for the sway bar came with the sway bar. Everything came with the bars. Very nice install kit, it even came with extra bolts. Also Instructions if needed. I am not familiar with any of the US S30s that came with factory rear sway bars, so I can't help you there. I would think that this bar is completely different than anything that was stock on a 260/280 zed, especially if the middle mounts are in front of the diff. The worse part of the whole process was that my backing plate was leaking, so I decided to tackle that at the same time...the mustache bar leaves something to be desired when taking it off! Hope this helps,

Check the outer passenger side half shaft u joint--good bet it's shot, and very loose...just jiggle the half shaft, and it should move if the u joint is worn out...pretty easy to just look at it as well...I have had a couple go out on me, and what happens is all the needle bearings fall out of 1 of the 4 joints on that u joint, causing the whole thing to fail.... Good luck on finding the problem.

A while back there was some interest in me posting some pictures of my rear sway bar, made by Suspension Techniques. It is a bolt on, no holes were drilled in chassis. Please click on my link below in my signature to see what the sway bar looks like on my 72 240z. I highly recommend this upgrade, the car is much tighter in corners now. The front sway bar was also upgraded (and there's a photo of it as well.)

....but S30 driveline u joints almost never wear out because they don't have to move angles at all... ....are you sure this is the problem? shake the driveline....it should have some play if it is that u joint...just replace 'em....