dogma420

Yeah I'd bet money that its for the antenna. Nice lookin Z man.

i was under the impression that the '3 point retractables' out of 73 are a direct bolt in, with no mods...that's what I'm looking for. I'll just keep the non retrac 72 laps until I find the 73s.

Hey, thanks Dr. Rich, I'm looking for the retractables that the retractable mounts in the floor behind the seats. Let me know if that's how the 74s are...I was thinking those retracts mount by the rear window....

Then again, if you got it in Jan 05 and the date on the document is from 2001 why would you think it'd be changed so soon after you got it? :dead:

Why don't you join the forum and post it on their webpage? You should get an answer.

just wondering, I'm a Portland Oregon zed freak...what local club with ZCCA would I join? Thanks in advance,

geeze man, i don't really care for the 350z but heck, I'd love to drive that race prepared one just a little bit!!!

Marty said: But Dave, in your case you used the 280 clutch components and therefore needed to use the shorter 280 T/O collar.. right? If I were (and I did) install a ZX 5 speed on my L24 which was equipped with the original clutch, I would need to use the longer 240 collar. True? Yes, True. I used the 280 components because the fork on my 4 speed was kinda messed up, and the tranny I got had a perfect condition fork/throw out bearing already attached...so I just used what it came with...I'd be surprised if whoever you got it from removed it.

Woops, I mean Marty said the wrong thing.... <But if I keep the 240 clutch pressure plate and disk, and use the longer 280 collar, that would be a mismatch of the parts.> You should say SHORTER 280 collar marty, then it should make sense. The 240 is longer cause the clutch width is shorter, and the 280 is shorter, cause the clutch assy width is wider.

He actually meant the SHORTER throw out collar of the 280...its shorter. If you install the 240 throw out and bearing, the clutch will be disengaged all the time no matter if you press the clutch in or not. Trust me I did this and learned the hard way. The 280 clutch/pressure plate are larger in width, so when the longer 240z collar is used, its pressing the clutch in without even touching the pedal, so 100% of the time the car acts like you have the clutch pedal pushed on. Use a 73-78 slave cylinder auto adjust---this requires a fork that matches the self adjusting rod of this slave....it doesn't have a hold for the rod to go through. the self adjust will save you, and its more like a modern car!

i have a perfect passenger side one, and a drivers side that has the red outer part cracked (in other words would work well if you need a perfect backing that the lights click into)...pm me if interested. Came off of a 73 240 as well.

a holley? ewww....too bad. The SUs would make it run much better. Too much hot rod mechanic advice.

You know what I mean Vicky...and there are always exceptions to the so called rules.... :classic: Your posts are always welcome imo cause you have so much experience on these rigs! You have a beautiful car. Have a Zed ful day!

""Furthermore, I contend that the original design of what became known as the 240Z iintended for the use of these covers over the scoops"" I still say imo that the Zed looks much better without these...on the G nose, yeah, I'd say they look pretty good...they just don't look right on a normal front end...even the chrome ring ones.

I like the original bre rear spoiler size, it is just right on functionality for 60+ mph on the highways....My car doesn't have one now, but I've driven both ways, and the Zed really likes to float a bit in the back without one. Plus that rear stock bre looks like, as far as spoilers go, it looks like pretty much stock.

Rick, Zedheads have Zeds because they are a beautiful car in design; extra lights ruin that...that's why you don't see a lot of talk on here about it. Most people, myself included, on this site like the way the Z looks in its original form. Most mods will get recommended to hybridz. Not extra lights, but in general this site is about real nice original looking zeds for the most part.

One more quick note--- I had to pull the tranny twice, and my car is just jacked up, no tranny jack, just using muscles :surprised Trust me, I tried every combo to save money, and believe me, just have everything except flywheel match the tranny's year of manufacture...make sure the slave, all clutch pieces, fork, and throw out bearing match the 5 speed's year....the 5 speed stuff is more refined anyways in design, imo because the clutch is so much smoother than when I had the 4 speed installed. Just my .02 dollars.

What I used on my 72 was: everything from flywheel back was 77 5 speed....the slave, fork, clutch, pressure plate, throw out, all was 77 5 speed. Works great...I did need the clutch, and the tranny had a real good fork/throw out on it, so it was an easy decision. But everything matched the year of the tranny. Plus the slave is self adjusting which is nice. I did have to adjust the clutch pedal nut on the thingy that pushes against the piston on the clutch master, had to thread it almost to max (master was original 72 style but i think its the same)...when this adjustment was done, clutch is smooth as silk in operation.

think about the headlight covers for 6 months or so before making a decision...they are actually tacky pretty much...had them on one of my cars, and put 2 holes in the buckets to mount....it was a big mistake (this was like 15 years ago on a 74.5 260z)....they sound like they're cool, but just wait and you'll change your mind...imo. Just my .02 dollars.

MSA is zcarparts.com Whatever you do, don't put a big spoiler or whale tale on it...man that just ruins a Z...too ricey. I've seen it done, and it just ruins it man. Get the BRE stock style...its much more functional anyways.

If it has bronze wouldn't it have burned up the valves by now?

Will, Door skins are not welded on in the first place. Even new ones are glued. Just a FYI.