dogma420

To me, it really sounds like something timing based... when you were restoring it, was anything done to the motor during this time? I can't tell from the description... did it run fine, then 2 years later after sitting, and nothing touched on the motor, did it then start running bad?

6 spark plugs, spark plug socket, all 8mm-17mm sockets, craftsman 3/8 ratchet, all metric wrenches, set of points/condenser if points systems...just all normal everyday driver stuff I have in there all the time....

well joker72z, for one thing, I paid $40 for a new alternator, and many others can get this upgrade for $5-10 from a pull it lot...that's why. It's essentially just 2 wires spliced in, at least for a 240z. I have too much juice now, it's just great compared to the stock 240z alt. When it's this cheap, why do you need to spend $100 or more for more amps...most on here don't need honestly that many amps. 74260 -- I don't have any wire diagrams around, but if you look at your wires that connect to your alternator (never mind the connectors) are there the same wires as in the diagrams for converting a 240z to this alternator? Wires with the same colors more than likely get spliced together--you'd bypass the external regulator, and make sure you add the diode like in the conversion instructions, so your car turns off with the key (and doesn't continue to run). Feedback...need more info man.

Don't want to nit pick, but from what I've even seen on this website, even avid Z owners seem to have issues with SUs...why would these dealerships be able to handle sync'ing SUs but not triples? I understand from my point of view that SUs are easy, but imo back then the double SU setup would probably rank right up on the same level as triples in America circa early 70s...

Carl, you said: << After that brochure went to publication, Nissan included Tinted Glass and Rear Window Defroster as Standard Equipment also. >> What's up with the tinted glass? My 10/71 has all original glass, but no tint...or is it so subtle that it's pratically the invisible type? Just curious. Thanks! Everyone have a good weekend, now....

I should also say that up until now, Oregon has never used chemicals or salt on the roads in the Winter, just gravel...so that has a lot to do with even thinking about driving my Zed in the snow... I have noticed Washington county using spray trucks in the last few years, to tell you the truth, I'm not sure if this harms cars or not...this spray is put down the day before it's supposed to snow (anyone in other parts of the country would laugh at that, but it doesn't snow here much at all)....anyone else out this way know anything about that spray that they're starting to use?

<< Quote: Kinda makes you wonder about a guy thats supposedly a SU guru, who goes forth with a tripple SU set-up!!!? Hmmmmmm! To me this reads like a backhanded comment. You are clearly questioning the competency of Steve, and his business. I didn't like it, and didn't agree with it, and said so. Everyone on this list with a 240Z or 260Z are potential clients of Z Therapy. They could read your comment and get the wrong idea. >> Contrary to how Tom, aka 240ZX made it sound, I would also like to say I completely recommend Steve at Ztherapy.com for your total SU needs. Even if you just have a simple question, or be lucky enough to live within driving distance, you can actually just show up at the shop and ask some questions, and pick up a little part, like some fuel rubber hoses on the bottoms of the carbs, etc...he is an expert regarding SU carburetors and I recommend him for anyone on our forum. I think it is AWESOME he did that 3 SU setup...it just looks so good, and you can really blow somebody away by showing that setup to somebody. Yeah, its obvious the air vacuum pulse thing doesn't make it fly. The comment made it sound like something else altogether...

Too bad you can't just be playing that Xbox game your Z's sound went to; you could just restart that race! sorry to hear that you got dinged...I've done that waiting in line at the post office drop mail boxes, but I was the one creeping forward....

<< Also, what are the advantages of using air horns? I thought that all they do was to change the sound a bit? >> HELL NO! They make a huge difference! They make the air go into the carb the 'right way'...for lack of anything sounding scientific...without them, the carb doesn't work the right way, and I'm sure somebody else on here can reply and contribute more, but without air horns, you aren't letting the carbs do their thing, really.

Although I haven't used them on my current 72 Z, I have some mounted big studded snow tires for it, and I'm temporarily living at about 1000 feet elevation in the West Hills in Portland, and if it snows anywhere in the Portland area, it's just around where I live, and 'if' I use my Z at all this Winter, I might just mount these tires...an S30 Z actually isn't a bad snow car, as long as you have traction, I've found. They are a nightmare with just regular radials on the back in snow/ice. I use a heavy rear wheel conversion Van right now, which works just fine in the Portland area!

Enrique-- Be sure to put a post on here, and put some pictures in your gallery...I'm interested in seeing it come Spring/Summer....my Z will be ready for a cruise or 2 this spring/summer in Oregon....

as with any car on ebay, it's hard to say this is a good example. It might be, but it would depend upon too many unknown variables in my opinion. Seems most of them in any good condition go for that amount ($3k)... He has an old car next to it in the garage, so that means the owner likes old cars... Kind of moronic to say that the motor was just rebuilt 5,000 miles ago but the carbs need to be 'fiddled with'...anyone on here that owns a SU carb'd Z knows that could mean anything if it's coming from an owner who doesn't know how to tune/sync 2 SU carbs. I personally think SUs are really easy, and I understand how they work and what's involved in a rebuild, but many don't, so that statement is hard to understand... Best way to buy a car off of ebay from what I've seen on here is to have someone you know (or a real friendly forum user) go see the car and give you feedback. Rust / undercarriage is what would be most important with one of these little convertibles, if I had to make an educated guess. I'm interested to here some input like Gary said, from Scanlon....[uh, i was too slow in updating the page, and Enrique beat me!] It's a pretty car though!

<< -I have been looking at some local sources and I have found a man who "claims" his 74 Datsun is a 280z. So maybe its a 75? >> I am not sure about BC Canada, but just down the road in Oregon (and the rest of the US) I used to own a 74 260z, and about 1/2 way through the year, Nissan started to use the newer unibody, which put the turn signals in the grill area (due to larger bumpers being put on). Due to regulations, and I'm not sure if the regs started in 75 or 1/2 way through 74 or if Nissan just started using early, but the 1975 280z and the 1974 260z have essentially the same unibody design and interior. The differences would be that the '74.5' 260z I had, had a 2.6 liter motor, along with 'square top' SU carburetors. Mine actually had aftermarket downdraft Weber carbs, but it had the big, shiny bumpers of the 75 280z (which I think, when they and the rubber are in excellent condition, are the best looking of the big bumper style s30s)...***but--if they aren't in perfect condition, then the 77-78 bumpers look better when in any condition, imo. When you talk 'longer 280z' if I had to guess, I might think you are talking about the 79 and later 280zx, which looks very similiar to the 70-78 s30 but it at the very least 'looks longer'...I'm not sure if it is, but it does look longer. You'd be safe with the 280z, as with the exception of a very few minor differences in exterior looks, the body style is the same as the 70 240z. They are very different in most ways (carbs vs. injection, 100 miles of extra wire, heavy shock absorbers/bumpers for federal regs, smog improvements), but that awesome shape/design of the exterior remains the same. ie. you can use a door from a 78 on a 70 (pretty sure) and you can use a hood from a 78 for a 70. We are of course talking 2 door body style, not the 2+2s with a little back seat, of course.

<< " they can throw mud at a wall all day and eventually some of it will stick '' . >> Good point fuzze; I sure don't have any issues with anyone selling anything on ebay...best thing to do if you don't like it or it's rediculous is to just ignore it and not give it some thread space here.... I have a buddy who goes to Goodwill, buys all the computer 'junk' and anything else that he fancies on other shelfs. He is a professional freelance photographer, and lets just say he has some expensive cameras and is good with presentation. He finds a lot of these 'ebay suckers' he is quick to point out. He was telling me about a bare hard drive he purchased at Goodwill for $2 and he sold on ebay...description was something like 'hard drive, 20mb (VERY small OLD hard drive) unknown if works...' sold it for $20 plus $7 shipping...no kidding...he uses really nice presentation pictures and it works. If this guy sells his wheel/tire, who here wouldn't think 'hey, that dork just put $400 in his pocket'....it will happen one day, almost guaranteed...might take another 500 years (imo) but it will happen.... ;-) Everyone take care.

since we're on the subject of grounds...where is the engine ground for a 72 240z? I've never seen an actual engine ground cable....where would the ground be....and has anyone improved on theirs?, in their Z's? Everyone have a good Thanksgiving!

i was near Sears yesterday and picked up a 27mm socket...$9 !!!!!!

Thanks all, I appreciate it!

I'm doing some valve/timing stuff and need to go get a socket for the crankshaft nut...can anyone verify, is this nut 22 mm in size? or something else? I used to have a huge set of sockets this size, until they got stolen a while back... And I assume the nut on the timing chain cam sprocket is relatively small, like 17-19mm, right? I found nothing on forum search; thanks everyone for reading/replying to my post! I appreciate it--Take care,

Welcome John! This is a fun website to examine and read read read...you can learn a lot about the S30, especially the 240z... Remember, that the 'search' button in the menu at the top is your best friend when trying to find specific items!! Nice looking G coupe!!!

magnecors were the ones I was talking about...7mm are like $110 up to $120 for 8.5mm... I just picked up some 7mm NGKs and if I really want to spend the money in the future, I might end up getting the magnecors, but I don't think they'd make a difference unless I went MSD or Crane electronic.... Thanks for the replies everyone!

I know this is old, but this might be helpful... click on this link for a free downloadable autocad viewer.... http://www.edrawingsviewer.com/pages/programs/download/index.html there are options, but if you just click the 'view autocad' about half way down on the selections, then click the button on the bottom... Enjoy.

Just wondering any thoughts at all... I will need to get some new spark plug wires soon, and was wondering thoughts on which size I should get--I'm looking at about $15 difference between all 3 sizes of wires from where I'm looking, so price doesn't matter. I have a 72 240, original motor...in the spring I'm going with a 81 ZX Dist and a good output coil, so I have a real good spark--this is a weak area on my motor--as I foul my spark plugs due to weak rings. Trying to squeeze a little more time out of her. Anyways, my car is nothing special on performance...my only hop-up part is a stock replacement K+N air filter. No header or cam...when I rebuild probably get that stuff done... What width spark plug wire would be recommended for my car for the electronic dizzy with a high output coil? 7mm, 8mm, or 8.5mm? I assume that stock size is 7mm, but I was wondering about the 8 or 8.5...are those overkill for my situation, or is more always better if they are the same price? Thanks for reading my post.

I hope it's a good series; I watched all of the games. I hope that the layoff for Colorado didn't do them in; I have a feeling that they will have to play even a little bit better than they were to beat the Red Sox...that lineup is so brutal--not to mention that they could if they wanted to start Beckett 3 games--I don't think the Rockies can beat him. I think that it will come down to pitching and AL home field advantage. Red Sox in 6. But I don't care who wins. If the Rockies can stay hot--and their pitching is supreme, they have a good chance to hit Goliath in the eye.

Well, my 240 is Datsun Red (inbetween orange and red) and I'm white/black...I think most of the reds are black/black and white/black like mine...anyone else?

Get your tires rotated / balanced...sounds like you might have a steel belted tire where the belts are seperating-- A seperated belt is a difficult diagnosis--sometimes you can't tell at lower speeds a vehicle has one, but then you feel it at high speeds--see if you can tell if it comes from one side or the other--have just the front tires rotated to the back--if the shimmy disappears, it might just be a seperated belt. A sep. belt requires a tire replacement. A seperated belt tire can sometimes be balanced w/o knowing there's anything wrong with the tire--it's kind of like driving over a small speed bump with one tire--and shows up at high speeds...this 'might' be your problem.