dogma420

Order some of the additional little black rubber bumper stops, the ones that are used to protect the body when you close the gas tank filling door. Stick those bumper stops into the holes, that's about as professional as you're going to get without redoing it.

Sorry, but that thing doesn't even look like its worth $2500...I mean when you list as a selling point the stereo, it's time to move on to another car.... Yeah...is that primer? and the wheels are pretty cheesy non-early 70 wheels as well...280 lights?

See my signature...I think Zhome already has a listing though....don't know if it works for everyone though....

I agree Vicky....I have never thought that the grab handle was for closing the door... I thought it was the oh sh@t handle as well....I always close my door with the arm rest or through the window to the outside if the window is down. I don't think I'd want it there anyways... ....but, with the way the 260/280 arm rests are setup, maybe they were intended for closing the door? those armrests incorporate the oh sh#t handle into them, right?

Gary, There's a place called Alexis Window Tinting on Canyon...they have told me, and they do high volume for Portland because they do such a good job...that I can do it and they give me a certificate...I've also talked to the Sherwood Police Department about it, and the rear window on our Z doesn't apply to the 'standard tint law'. I think it has something to do with the year of the z being so old. I am sure I will need to put some section of the law in the glove box, etc. because some idiot cop won't know the law...and I'll get pulled over for that. I still might just do standard tint on the rear actually, I don't actually know what my final decision is going to be....but I'm getting at least a little tint, because the film reflects all the UV as well...that's the stuff that really fades the interior. but going real dark on the rear window, and then I think its called 30 tint on the sides is legal according to Sherwood Police and Alexis Window Tinting. By the way, they are one of the best in Portland, and I'd say real reasonable. If I bring in all 5 pieces of my glass (so they're not on the car) the total is around $100 if I recall. I have a few friends that had gotten their cars done there, and that's why I'm getting it done....their cars look real real good on the tint. Looks like factory tint, absolutely no imperfections, even on window glass where you can see the edge. I think it's totally worth it when I get into my car after its been sitting outside in the sun for a while...and I want to save my panels when I purchase some new ones. I just can't take heat getting back into a car....esp w/ no AC. imo.

So if you have rear discs, you shouldn't use the parking brake if you've been driving, is that correct? Wait till the brakes cool down, then put the parking brake on? Or are rear discs different that what is mentioned here because they work so much less...

Looks real good! Once I repair my defroster lines, I am going to get limo tint on the rear window, and tint like you have on the sides. All of my white plastic panels were destroyed by the sun over the course of 30 years, and the car just bakes with no tint... Does it seem much cooler when coming back to your car on a hot day?

...so if a part wasn't replaced with geniune Nissan on these repro cars, the parts just weren't replaced? I would've thought the hoses/etc under the hood don't look oem...so in other words, using non oem hoses but a repro door skin is a no no on these 'factory' cars? Kinda strange to me...some of the repro skins are great, other than the plastic chrome thingy not being there.

Try one of the mobile dent remover guys...they should be able to get them out, they just use a suction cup then buff em.

Yeah Will, I'm interested in the glisten PC as well...I don't think it can crack or chip, POR makes kick arse products...wondering if it is very noticeable ...post some pics Will....

Hey quick question, on the ebay listing, there's a picture of the driver's door opened, and there's a passenger side grab handle...what's that all about? Stock Zs don't have one of those...Vicky--do you have a grab handle on the driver's door? What does anyone else thing about that? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...1&category=6187

That hood would work so well on the "70s show"...

have you searched the forums yet? its been brought up quite a bit.

you can't delete photos yourself ask mike, i forgot the gentleman's name that you have to ask that to.....i wouldn't worry about tho...

<<<this is because the rear impact test requirements changed in those years.. So to did the uni-body structures that carried the bumpers and took the impacts.. >>>> Carl B--are you saying that the 77-78 body has more metal for reinforcement in the unibody in the front and rear?

Cheetah...anything works with enough money...but yeah. For 40K you can put Bigfoot brakes on there....stop in 10 feet from 100mph...j/k.

You're welcome... When you say 'brushed off' I mean put a wired poker thingy (on the end of a terminal cleaner) through the post connectors...not just brushed off...have new lead showing... Don't know what else I'd do...I'm kinda stumped.

Thanks Jmanz6!

Have you actually physically removed the positive/negative cable and used a terminal cleaner thingy to completely clean the lead contacts both on the cables and on the battery? Also, what about the other ends of the cables, the ground and the postive...happened to me many times in the far past that you'd get enough juice for radio, etc. but not enough for a cold crank if those are dirty...once a year I completely clean mine and put the red spray crap on the terminals...I also replace the cables at least every 3 years or so...so I never have that problem anymore. Also, the symptom of having nothing power on, then on intermittently can be caused by this issue. Just something to check possibly, if you've done it, apologies for having to read this! Even if you have a new battery, if the cables are dirty, you're only getting partial current.

good for you Jayru! I think we've all kind of been in your situation...although you have had some bad breaks in a row it seems! Take care

dhoneycutt, what dist are you using with the setup? the 280zx dist? Let us know how it makes your car behave (I assume much better!).... please do a tech write up.

I just couldn't believe what I was seeing/hearing when I saw this, and I think it is something everyone should watch to see how NOT to behave.... http://www.filecabi.net/v.php?file=MichaelCrook.wmv It's this guy on Hannity & Colmes that thinks the Military are all scumbags and wants them to die. He gets happy when troops die...I could only watch like a minute of it, but one of my Military buddies sent it to me... Take care, and God Bless America and our Troops!

you have louvers on your hood? and they're removable? do you mean the vents on the hood (2 of them) ?

I saw on Courtesy Nissans' website that their oem door seals run $125 for drivers 115 for passengers side.... http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=76802-S30ALL Does this sound like a good price for OEM door weatherstrips? or does someone know where there is a better deal? Thank you in advance for ready my post.

Get your tires 'siped'...I got my new ones siped and it makes a noticeable difference on the performance of your tires. check out http://www.lesschwab.com/Siping.html Les Schwab is more of a Pacific NW/Cal place...not sure if anyone else is doing this, but on my 205/60/14's (nothing special) I got this done....they are some of the grippiest feeling tires I've ever had...ESPECIALLY in the rain....completely different in the rain that you are used to using.