dogma420

quick question about the shorter steering knuckles...everyone states 'for competition off road use only'.....i'm going to be replacing cartridges/springs/ball joints/tie rods and want to put these in....should I be concerned with these disclaimers or should I just get 'em? Probably just get 'em but an opinion from experience would be appreciated! Thanks, Dog

can someone explain the 3 n 9 vs. 12 n 6 test? so you just change hand positions and shake? how are the 2 different, sorry for sounding so dumb!

Thanks Les! That clears that up.....ok so this is what that says: I'm afraid that I have no "quick fix" for you. You will have to drop the tranny (again!) and either use a 280Z throwout bearing collar or replace your clutch/pressure plate with a 280Z type. I don't have any probs pulling it out, in fact, i'm sure the 2nd time around will be much quicker.... Does anyone know if the '73 240z clutch disc I used can be saved, and I can just go get a pressure plate for '78 280z? This could save me a little $$....also, I know that MSA sells just standard pressure plates (I was going to just run this clutch into the ground, so the stock setup is ok)...until I rebuild my 2.4 into a 2.8 block up to 3.1....so if anyone knows 'the cheapest' place to get a pressure plate (and if my 73 clutch disc is useable), please let me know. Thanks! --Dog

Hello guys, well I just finished with my 4sp to a 78 5speed conversion. but.... The clutch acts like its disengaged 90%, (it will move barely when floored)....what I was wondering, is that I had an old (10 yr) clutch kit in my closet, and I used that...it was for a 73 240....I was assuming that 70-78 clutches are all the same....are they? I got a new 78 280z slave for the clutch, and I think I bled it enough, probably couldn't hurt to bleed it more.... The clutch feels like it is out of adjustment, but with the 78 slave there's no way to adjust the clutch. Any suggestions would be great! I had the flywheel resurfaced, new slave, new tranny fluid....bled the slave by having someone pump 10 times then open the bleeder, repeating that like 10 times until clear fluid came out. Did not mess with my master clutch cylinder, which was working fine before the 4sp was dropped. Thanks! Dog

I have a '73 hatch I would sell....it is brown however. good glass, I haven't looked at it for quite a while, but it was rust free. Let me know if you are still looking, Dog

my 72 is red 110 but it isn't red or faded....it was repainted in like '95 (look at my gallery)....sometimes in the dim light it can sorta look red, but, when I bought it, the guy said it was 'datsun red' and that was a bummer, cause I really didn't want a red car...but then i went to look at it, and it was orange.... i've seen original orange 280z's....it just kinda throws you off on that one on ebay, cause it has 240z slot mags on it.... the guy with the '78 orange z the perlaxamous (sp) guy doesn't have a 110 code car however....that is not the same as my car....so there might've been 2 different 280z orange style cars. dog

Saw this at MSA, pretty sweet.....what do ya all think? I think it would be about the best looking air dam available for my 72....does it match though enough? Let me know what ya all think, Dog http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1439&Category_Code=7AD2

Motorsport Auto in Los Angeles, California http://www.zcarparts.com/ Sells repros, exact for something like 150 total....good ones, I have a pair. My question---I need to find wheels wider than 7" with correct offeset to go with these ZG flares!!!!! Any help guys? take care, Dog

no one has really stated this blatantly, make sure the overflow tubes are not blocked up that come out of the top of the float chambers....if those aren't clear, the gas will have a hard time being used, my 2 cents, good luck Dog

I would definitely pass on this car man. 1. Black paint---you'll wanna change it or repaint 2. 4800 is too much for a non original Z and this one is definitely not original 3. 4800 is too much 4. 4800 is too much 5. 4800 is too much Look for a rust free for between $1500 and $3000 and try to find original....and then alter it yourself. 1972 240z's are a dime a dozen. Maybe if it was a 70....but there were a LOT of 72 240z 's made, and thus they aren't sold for as much. When looking at a z, inspect the frame rails underneath (and floor pans, inside the interior and under the car) look at battery area in the engine compartment, and also the frame pillar that goes from the firewall to the radiator on the passenger side, there could be a lot of corrosion on this....esp with it not being repainted. Esp look under passenger seat, as where the frame rail ends underneath is a great place for rust. Expect most Zs to have rusty floorpans and rails, replacement would run around $800 at least. At $4800, these should be in perfect condition, and I'd bet money they aren't. Having speakers put in the tool compartments is really dumb as well. Beyond these, if you are looking for a custom Z and don't mind wasting a 1000 or so, by all means have one of the pre inspection places check it out, there's lots of mobile ones available in your area, so go pay the $80 to $100....they also check compression and road test it to let you know how it is. I always do that with all my rigs, including my 240z.

I just put on the front s.t. sway bar, it has a definite bend to go around the front of the motor (and oil pump) and won't hit anything. Possibly they gave you the wrong ones, or your z has been highly modified? Take the new one and line up with the old one, I noticed they are the same exact shape, just that one is much much thicker. That should tell you something. Later, Dogma

Got my S.T. sway bars from Racer Wheel. Got them in about 5 days, you HAVE to sign for them, that was the only problem....(at least if you just buy on line). Link for 240z ones: http://www.racerwheel.com/suspension-sway-bars-nissan-240z.html I would say these are the best I could find that didn't drill into the unibody. They are $20 more now, were 269 with the $20 discount they talk about at the top of the page. With shipping, I paid $265 total. Good luck, and happy Z'ing! Dogma

Just got suspension techniques 1" front and 3/4" rear, rear oriented...the 2 brackets that hold the rear of the rear a arms on have to be replaced, (they add 2 additional holes for each side of the bar), very nice kit, the brackets and the sway bars are top quality on finish as is the poly bushings. I'm impressed....just installed the front, going to do the rear very soon. Paid 250 with shipping for both.

Haynes manual: 1. Remove Transmission 2. Reinstall Transmission Heh

That is not a factory weld; more than likely it is fine, as it isn't in a stress point (as far as I can tell)....you should probably do some detective work, and try to figure out what might've caused it, but would just go ahead and install it and 'test' it for a few thousand miles....if it passes, it's ok. Just 2 cents

Don't want to disapoint you man, but stuff like 'matching engine #s' doesn't really apply to Datsuns. It might apply to a corvette or a camaro/mustang, but I don't think it will apply to a Datsun if ever so don't worry about it. Also, any Z manufactured after August is considered the next year rig. Yours is NOT considered a 1970 rig. I have a 9/71 240z and it is most definitely a '72. So I would modify your rig all you want, cause the 'classic 70' is only until about July or August of 70. Arguments? Start now! Just letting you know, the 1970 240z all numbers match might be something to do, but unless you scam someone, this is never going to be something that your 71 is. Just my 2 cents, and sorry, wasn't trying to sound like a d***, Dogma