dogma420

I thought there were other products you could spray (non chrome) like for headers you could spray and bake in your oven...does anyone have any links for these kind of products? Also, the guy selling that chrome spray on Ebay was also selling instructions for $2 on how to recondition bad nicad batteries...by 'surging' them or something...anyone buy these instructions or know what he's talking about without wasting the $2 on a scam? I'd buy them if I knew I wasn't throwing my money away, because I do have a bad battery on one of these $15 Harbor Frieght cordless drills...great drill...short life battery that costs more than the drill when you go back to purchase one. I just purchased another of their drills on sale for $11.99 (can't believe the price)...this drill is 18v and looks, feels, and works, very similiar to my makita (that the exwife has now)....

simply untwist them the way you twisted them. Do the opposite. If a Haynes manual answered your question it would look like this: 1. Untwisting a twisted drip rail To untwist a twisted drip rail, you must untwist it. I bring this up, cause I was looking in one the other day and their explanations are so rediculous...when wanting to know specifics on things such as how to take out a water pump, for instance, it just says "remove water pump"...well gosh, thanks Haynes! By the way Tomo, what does "tast" mean?

something else to keep in mind--POR15 either regular or the tank version--is very very liquid in nature--it's not relatively 'thick' like paint about to set...when I did my tank, I was quite surprised at how 'runny' the product was and just by handling the product, I knew I would have no problems with it. I would go as far to say that I am confident I could take a portion of a window screen off of a screen door, dip it entirely in this POR tank coating, and it would be 100% clog free in a few moments, just from gravity. Just my opinion. I obviously don't have experience with this gas tank, just experience with the sealant. Good luck.

As far as POR clogging the filter, just blow through that vent once or twice while its sitting there--POR before it dries is paint-like, so it easily comes off. I strongly suggest looking at my POR tech article. It's still running awesome, and I had no issues with clogging lines (although I didn't have the same screen). Just make sure you blow through a few times, and that rust you show will be no issue with a POR15 application.

....maybe one of the springs is worn out....compare the springs that push the pistons down....

After extensive research, I'm finishing up my balance tube, as I just finished replacing my old exhaust manifold, and while everything was off, decided to remove the smog pump (which hasn't worked in 10 years anyways)... Anyways, after cleaning up the intake manifold and the balance tube, above is mentioned spraying the parts with a clear spray to keep them looking good. Can anyone reply with what kind of spray this is and where I should go to get it? Any retail stores? or links to online? I would appreciate it, as I'm polishing a bit of items and it would be nice to maintain that. Thanks for reading. Anyone interested in extra smog parts from a 10/71 car and/or original hose clamps, give me a holler. I have the vacuum access plugs from the balance bar as well...

Well, on the wheel well, stock there'd be a voltage regulator, by the little underhood light. If it's connected, then it's externally regulated...sounds like it 'isn't' being regulated....

I will be coming on Sunday with my 6 year old son. He loves my 240, and he's never seen another one, so I think he'll flip when he sees a bunch of them together all nice and everything. Hopefully my Z will be ready to go...(to park in parking lot)...I need to replace exhaust manifold and not sure if I'll have time to get it done. Portland people--pm me if you are getting together pre-sunday of show if you want my son and me to come with you....

well she tailgated you right? So she caused the 2nd item to happen. Accidents suck no matter whos fault, but looks like it's all her fault. Seems so from what you said. Good luck keep us informed.

You might do better (possibly) on a site for the 300zx...This site is mainly for the older cars that definitely did not come with a woman..(hence why there is that popular boobs thread in here...) Maybe Autozone has an online one...? Haynes manual?

Finally! I just saw a new locking gas cap exclusive for MSA in the new Spring catalog...$39 (I think that's it)... I have to order some water pump parts and spark plug wires this weekend, guess I have to get this too! Also, not sure if this is new, but there is the link "we will match or beat any price" all over the sales brochure, which I haven't seen before.... If you spend $100, you get a free 2007 wall calendar with....Zs on it of course.... Happy Valentines day...I got my Sweetheart some premium gas today...did you get your Sweetheart anything today? ~dave

Unfortunately, I bought some 280z seats, because of the better spring bottoms, and they were cheap (because the brackets weren't included). I had thought they would be the same as on my '72 240z seats, but they are not; instead of being fastened with bolts going through the slider brackets and a nut/washer being up on top of the seat frame, the 280 sliders 4 bolts appear to screw into the bottom frame of the seat, making the 240z seat sliders not compatible with the 280z seats. If anyone has an 'in bad condition' 280z seat lying around, even one, I would love to get a PM from you, as I would be interested in purchasing some of these brackets. Thank you, and happy Valentine's day...my 240z is my girl this year

Geosecor, If the 73 carbs are flat-tops, charge the guy $90 to dispose of them for him, and that would be a good deal. Stay away! They are so bad that if you bitched a bit, on a new 73 you could take it back and in some cases have the dealer replace them with older round tops--at no charge. Pretty much unheard of unless they were garbage. You will find a few tweakers who like to adjust them but considering that round tops are so easy to tune, I don't see the point. Take care!

Hey DAve, I am not going to argue or anything like that, I just wanted to point out my point of view-- There is one point of my Z that I've always been proud of, the electrical system has always been perfect, as close to original and the kind of condition that a restorer of a 72 concours would have in their system, the fuse box looks perfect,etc....(not saying that I haven't missed something and it'll blow up tomorrow, but imo), and whenever I've had the chance, Ie. I've had the dash out, etc....I've always throroughly checked all the wires and all the wires that were possible to electrical double 'double-time' under the dash I did do this to. My issue with the plastic fuse holder on the heater melting was actually quite minor....I guess my description did not do justice....the melting is that it looked brand new from the outside (the original) but the edges were essentially glued together, so no matter what I did to twist I couldn't get it off. So I applied probably unnecessary force so I cracked it when I removed it. I run it on full blast almost exclusively during the Winter, so that's why I bumped to 25 amp....I don't feel that's an issue, simply because I sometimes feel that certain circuits have smaller amp fuses based on the part, and not the wires. Would I be wrong on that? To me personally, I don't have the specs, but I would say the power output in Amps is at least worth a 5 amp increase in the fuse, and that the wires are only rated at 20 amp before they would fail. Am I wrong? CC'd to your new thread as well. By the way, Congrats to Enrique for getting his letter printed in Winter 2007 Nissan Sport Mag--probably our best tech writer/answer on our forum representing us very well!!!! PS. Dave, I've taken apart my combo switch carefully, cleaned it all up, sprayed / clean liberal tuner spray and made it as good as possible imo without replacing the metal pieces that are rubbed on. It works great other than that. Did you by chance get a hold of new contact pieces for the light/wiper contacts? Just curious. Mine are horrible, just normal wear over 30+ years.

Legend-- If you think your coolant hoses aren't flowing properly, you can probably use your fingers just to check the heat of hoses in various positions, such as even on the engine side check how the 'to heater' hose feels in temp in relation to the 'to engine' hose. They should feel exact the same temp if you have the heater open. Also, my heater cable has come undone before at the lever in the middle of the console...to fully open up the heater switch, I have had to hold the level to full/move at the same time as I hold that lever at the other end of the wire and force it open as well...it could be the cable is just not moving and it is not moving the lever to open freely. This can be caused just by the cable's out sheath coming undone off of the holder on the back side of the lever contraption...imo a real weak point of the lever system (over time) in the climate control levers in the 240. Lubricating , cleaning, and securing at that point better than stock has solved the issues for the most part on my z ...possibly replacing the cables would help too, I don't think all the cables stock oem are available, at least at MSA/Red Tiger VB...anyone else know?

Hey DAve, I am not going to argue or anything like that, I just wanted to point out my point of view-- There is one point of my Z that I've always been proud of, the electrical system has always been perfect, as close to original and the kind of condition that a restorer of a 72 concours would have in their system, the fuse box looks perfect,etc....(not saying that I haven't missed something and it'll blow up tomorrow, but imo), and whenever I've had the chance, Ie. I've had the dash out, etc....I've always throroughly checked all the wires and all the wires that were possible to electrical double 'double-time' under the dash I did do this to. My issue with the plastic fuse holder on the heater melting was actually quite minor....I guess my description did not do justice....the melting is that it looked brand new from the outside (the original) but the edges were essentially glued together, so no matter what I did to twist I couldn't get it off. So I applied probably unnecessary force so I cracked it when I removed it. I run it on full blast almost exclusively during the Winter, so that's why I bumped to 25 amp....I don't feel that's an issue, simply because I sometimes feel that certain circuits have smaller amp fuses based on the part, and not the wires. Would I be wrong on that? To me personally, I don't have the specs, but I would say the power output in Amps is at least worth a 5 amp increase in the fuse, and that the wires are only rated at 20 amp before they would fail. Am I wrong? CC'd in the original thread too. By the way, Congrats to Enrique for getting his letter printed in Winter 2007 Nissan Sport Mag--probably our best tech writer/answer on our forum representing us very well!!!! PS. Dave, I've taken apart my combo switch carefully, cleaned it all up, sprayed / clean liberal tuner spray and made it as good as possible imo without replacing the metal pieces that are rubbed on. It works great other than that. Did you by chance get a hold of new contact pieces for the light/wiper contacts? Just curious. Mine are horrible, just normal wear over 30+ years.

I agree that 'cold air' (air other than in the engine compartment) would be better. I was referring to the gentlemen that had a ram air on the hood going down to his fi...I was think about SUs in the same manner that that isn't going to help--ram air on Su's. I worded it real bad. Forcing air into SUs has no benefit I should have said.

great price! Dave, you are the man! Good luck Ian, this looks like a great car for the price! Have a lot of fun!!!! I wish I had a l28 with the ignition like that as well....shouldn't it have hatch vents? Good luck!

Mr. Legend Z Car Club-- Welcome!! You will find almost all questions answered if you search the forums for your topic. There is a search button near the top. When you click on it, there will be a text line to enter your topic..just like doing a web search. For instance, for your question, I would enter "Honda Heater Fan" without the quotes. You will find a lot of information. Usually, if you are entering a reply or posting a new thread, it is inferred that you have usually searched the forums and have found nothing on your topic. By the way--the heater fan I'm talking about is one from a 1982 Honda Civic...(I think that was it, off the top of my head) and most people here get one from a junk yard, as quick, cheap fix. It looks just like the one that is on your 240z, slightly different on the outside of the motor, but it's made by the same company, and if you hook up the wires the same, it does blow the fan the correct way. I would say it pumps out at least 50% more air on high, I think it was one of my best upgrades. If I wasn't able to do this upgrade, I would not keep planning to upgrade to AC next summer. By the way Dave, I think that fuse blew, but can't tell, cause the thing was all melted, and I was trying to get it apart normal way, but it shattered while I was trying. I purchased a heavy duty black type fuse holder for it, and that will take care of it. Do you think I should increase the amps? What was the original, 20amps? Thanks,

Yes, where are the pictures? Although I'm biased, you have got to love that Datsun Red!!!!! (red 110)... I always thought it was a different shade of orange...or is that how your avatar picture came out, and it is the normal orange? I'm glad to hear that you've got a lot of the work done!! Besides the stuff you are doing, hopefully all of the other descriptions that the PO said in his ad were more or less true, because with the welding word, and repaint, you have a real nice Z.....I wish mine was in that condition, to tell you the truth. Have a Merry Christmas!! Screw Seasons Greetings.

steve-- what happened to the low vin 70?

Thanks Arne, yeah, I just found it...in the white plastic thingy....red-->blue. Blown.... The odd thing is the correct wiring diagram doesn't have any fan wires on it, but I looked at the 73 wiring diagram and saw what I needed. No fan would've sucked with these sub freezing temperatures....I'm up on Skyline on top of the west hills in Portland, it's 28 degrees right now up here (1000+ feet elev).

Here's the scoop: On my way home from work today, I had the fan on high, and it just stopped working. Besides installing the honda civic fan, that circuit is stock. I swapped out all fuses one by one, and it never came back on...by the way, which fuse is for the fan? I'd guess it's the bottom right one, 'common' I think it's labeled. Anyways, it never did come back on, I only drove about 2 miles when this happened. On Saturday, I converted the alternator from original to the 280zx 60 amp brand new alternator and also modified the voltage reg plug with the diode exactly the way Dave and Arne have done with their plug, but I chose to just soldier mine instead. Have no clue what would be stopping the fan, as this in 8 years and 100k of driving, I've never had this issue on this car. Any suggestions? I already searched, and didn't find much specifics. Thank you in advance,