dogma420

Dave, as I showed you, I have those brackets, got them with my Suspension Technique sway bars. When I got them, ST said that those brackets were a proprietary design...so maybe yours are Suspension Technique's or they were lying and they're just a generic design? I don't believe the rear sway bar was mountable without these brackets or just drilling holes under the spare tire until the 280z (I'm talking the US 1975 model year S30)...maybe the big bumper 74.5 260z? Was the rear sway bar stock on the 73 240z? or the small bumper 74 260z? (US Versions)? I don't know... I think the brackets that you have in your pictures (and I have on my rig) are a nice design... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=14687&cat=500&ppuser=3789

I've seen the ram air setup on triple carbs, so I'm not saying that it doesn't work on cars that 'squirt' fuel into an engine (which means anything other than SUs)...and obviously, fuel injection is helped greatly by these items.

Alan, talk about going out of your way to be argumentative.... If us Americans want to informally classify 240s as Series 1,2,3,4 we can if we want to. Why would your arguments change that? If anything, the approach you go about trying to change this view makes anyone reading your views want to use the Series view, even if they never used it before.

It's 'not a fact jack' and don't call me Jack. I mis-stated the previous post--replace carbs with specifically SU carbs, and that is what I should've said. Ram Air and Cold air induction does not help SU carbs is what I meant to say. Go ahead and do cold air induction and do ram air with SUs--it doesn't help, it even lessens performance per people who have done it. The previous Z therapy owner (the Scott guy everyone despises for other reasons) had stated this a long time ago to me, after he tried it on his race cars. I can't remember, but the current owner (who is a member here) might have backed it up too, I can't remember. I'm basing what I said on personal experience of others when I was thinking of doing it. I'm NOT saying the same holds true for any other type of carburator, just with the SU carbs, which operate much differently than any other NA carburetor you would put on the Z. I wouldn't just bring this up because I'm blowing smoke. I don't waste time typing this kind of stuff out. Actually, for most carburetors, the 'ram air' effect would be true; on SUs which rely on vacuum to draw the air/fuel mixture into the motor, Ram air doesn't help SUs at all--think about how the SU draws air in based on vacuum--it's inherent design means ram air isn't going to help. I'd have to find the evidence, but I went through this research 3 or 4 years ago--imo at the very least, cold air intake with SUs with the ram air effect, lessens performance of SUs.

I was going to do something like a cold air induction where the air filter is in front of the radiator, but with carbs, I have found that it doesn't necessary help or improve anything, that cold air ind should be done for fuel injection.

don't understand the momo stuff...why fairlady? the steering wheel is on the wrong side!

You beat me Dave.... see what happens when I just sit there for a 1/2 hour before clicking 'send' on my reply!! :-)

don't reply if you have nothing to say 240 Brendan-- Check out this link: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19603&highlight=good+piston+rings and that's just for starters...there are lots of others that popped up when I searched the forums(see next paragraph)....and check out what Zbane said above--you normally can't go wrong with purchasing stock stuff from either Nissan if the parts are available, or from MSA (Motorsport Auto) which is the www.thezstore. that is the link....I buy 75% of all my replacement parts from MSA--just bought a replacement clutch slave cause mine was leaking. They are great for that kind of part....also be sure to ask for a catalog (they are out right now they said, they'll send you a cd-rom version instead [which I actually wish i had sooner i didn't know they had them]). In the future, use the 'search forums' link at the top--i found this link by searching for 'good piston rings'. Most of the time, it's best to search for an answer to a question before posting. Some of the people that reply with great information have already answered questions and they might not want to answer it again. Just my .02 dollars. Take care, and good luck with your rebuild. Welcome to the website!

tomo-- you should get a couple of those corner dolls, maybe one for each corner of the living room. When friends come over, start yelling at the dolls, so your friends know you're still ok.

Arne--I take offense! (just kidding!) My 72 240 is a 10/71, and just about everything on it is Series 2, but I must call it Series 3, because of the hubcaps and the diff being pushed back, and the new console....I think in the transitional cars (10/71 being the new model year of 1972) I think the cars right at the transition could have mixed/older parts if available on the car. the mutt as was mentioned. Always thought the 72/73 once changed, didn't have much to be 'improved' because Nissan did all the improvements for 72 model year (and this is before the emission and bumper shocks of 73)...so I've always justified having a 72 by saying that it's the best 240 to have, other than a low vin 70, that model being better because of possible value being higher. A 72 has most of the 'defects' worked out that were found in the first 2 years....although I would love to have the defects of a low vin 70. the seat belts I got from you by the way are working great, thx. Geezer-- Technically, a 10/70 car is actually the first month of the model year for Nissan at the time, so your car is a 71. It was registered a 70 because DMVs didn't much care about model years, hence why some 240's are registered as 69 model years (the very early 240s). Bpilati-- I'm in the process of repainting the defroster lines. Mine doesn't work because there's a break in the lines, so it can't complete the circuit. You can see metal missing in 2 of the lines in one portion. Essentially you have to tape up the whole window and paint with metallic conductive paint. I bought mine here: http://www.semsupplies.com/Silver%20paint.html well, you don't have to paint the entire defroster grid, just the parts that are missing, but just to make it look good and ensure I don't have to do it ever again, i'm painting the entire grid and then taking it to the tint shop before I put it back in with a fresh gasket.

Dave-- In learning in time my 72 was a 'series 3' I have thought of them like this: (and I could be wrong, but these are the things I normally think of when people say Series 1, 2, 3) Series 1-original style, plastic tool doors, no holes in steering wheel, vertical defrost, vents in hatch, original console, crankshaft changed after a few months initially due to vibration Series 2-no hatch vents, new style tool drawers next to spare tire Series 3 (my 10/71 72 model) -holes in steering wheel, new updated console, different hazard switch/sticker (which i'm about to get the copies made of....), Differential moved back Series 4 (73 240z and 74 small bumper 260z)...horizontal defrost? Not sure of anything else...emission stuff Of course, seat belts changed all throughout the years as well, I believe. I'm probably wrong, but in simple terms over the years, these are the things I've normally thought of when talking Series x,x,x of the 240z's.

Enrique, I installed 5 of the rubber bump stops on the emblem holes, the same part number for the rubber stops on the gas filler door. They work great on sealing up emblem holes. The only opening to the outside world should be just the latch (I have the later non vent hatch). I was just wondering if anyone had done any modifications, or such. I like to do refurbishing so I don't have to do it ever again, if possible. I'm doing it because I'm going to get a BRE spoiler sometime next year, and my emblems were falling off due to broken studs, so I just went ahead and installed the rubber stops. Larry, I think installing the gaskets either way should be just find, as long as they are installed correctly in all other aspects. I was just confused because each part was labeled left or right, and if installed, they would have the ends in a different area than how the worn-out gaskets were installed. If you do a forum search on the gasket sealing subject, soom good posts will pop up...If I remember correctly, Enrique did one of his great explanation posts on how to adjust the body side latch piece. They don't move much, but you can adjust a tad bit. If money wasn't an issue, I would get the OEM Nissan door gaskets. I think they are around $150 though, hence why I didn't get them. They will still be tight, from what I've heard, but not as tight. Hope this helps, and thanks E for your input...I appreciate it. Everyone have a good week,

Thanks for the info, Enrique. Makes me wonder why these door rubber gaskets are cut in the middle...it would seem that they should be one piece... Are the Nissan OEM ones like that? Or any others? (are they one piece vs. cut in the middle) I am not complaining at this point, because for the quality that these gaskets appear to be (holding them in my hand at this point) I'm pretty happy with the low cost of $19.99 each. Finally!!! Once these are installed, and the hatch panel which is coming in the mail from MSA is installed, my Z is 99.9999% sealed up from the outside!!! It's been 3 complete Z cars since I haven't smelled exhaust. Only my first Z, a 260z big bumper was completely sealed up. By the way, I'm sure you've modified your hatch interior panel on the backside in some way (to prevent it from moisture deterioration)... My idea was, to use some heavy plastic and gorilla glue to within 1/4" of the edges all around on the backside, with tiny holes in the plastic for the rivets to go through...and on the hatch itself, I'm thinking of putting little thimble like plastic pieces all around each rivet, to make them 100% sealed up. ...kinda makes me wonder, if anyone has tried to seal up this hatch area around the actual hatch latch assembly and seal it up right there...it would be better if the inside of the entire hatch was sealed up. Since I'm going to try to put a BRE spoiler on the back, I've already put 5 of the little rubber bumpers on the holes for the emblems. (the ones that the gas door rests on--they work good for that.) Once Summer comes, then I'm going to pull out the rear window, fix the defrost lines, get good window tint put on, and POR15 the heck out of the hatch, Ala how Gary has done his hatch. This summer I will definitely ride with you guys! Enough rambling.... Thanks for your time E.

I think I understand E; they didn't cut the corner; I will switch them like you said so I install them the same way the old ones are installed. If I installed what VB says is the left side on the left side, then the butt ends would be at the front of the doors, near the hinges. If I simply put the left side on the right side and just switch them, then the ends meet in the middle of the scuff plates. I can then just make sure the welting ends at the same place. The interior piece you're talking about is the scuff plate, right? I'll be installing these tomorrow...looks like we're going to have some clear, cold, windy weather, good for working outside on the Z.

Thanks for reading my post; I appreciate it. I am installing 2 new door rubber gaskets. The old ones I have now have the ends down in the middle of the rocker panel area. If I install the new gaskets (the cheapo's from VB)..the bag labeled for left, if installed on the left, would have the ends ending somewhere around the front edge of the door, I would say about half way down, near the level where the hood release is. Which way would everyone recommend? Which way is standard, and what is all of your opinions? I would think it wouldn't matter....but if the ends come off on the front side, I wouldn't want to do that...it would look better imo if the ends were not in the middle of the rocker panel area however. By the way, I did have broken linkage on my wipers and from Arizona Z I got a '78 set of linkage ($35 w/shipping from Arizona to Portland, Oregon), installed it, along with a nearly forgotten about gasket set created by Bambikiller from a while back, and I must tell everyone, one of the best upgrades I've done. The linkage was in almost new condition imo. Previously, since I'd never had any linkages apart on previous Zeds, I had thought it was probably normal to have a little bit of play in the shafts that the external wiper blade attaches to, as my originals had about 1mm of play area...the ones I just got had 0% play in them. After pulling them apart, greasing, and installing it all, incredible difference. Also, I"m very close to having the hazard stickers ready for sale...I just need to send the money to my sticker maker now...I will send 10 of them to Will and let him send his opinion to everyone before anything else. I believe Zedd Findings has created them as well, but I will definitely sell for less to all members here. Take care, thanks for reading,

I don't have a garage either! never stopped me either...

one thing I'm not understanding here.... Is it that the people who make these headers just not caring about their job? It would seem to me that after so many times making a header that it would always fit a stock 240z ....shouldn't that be the case? I mean, we've all been in the situation where something came out wrong at work, and we've had to go back to the drawing board, but we all strive to correct our problems so they don't happen again. I definitely don't blame MSA directly, but they should try and figure out why so many of their headers have this issue--it's almost a running joke...but, heh, I will probably get a header from them and hope no more than 2 headers have to be ordered from them. I definitely like their concern with making the customer happy--I've never been screwed in the end by MSA so that's why I always go back to them. So I don't think I'd have a problem if a header didn't fit...but I don't think I'd go to the trouble of grinding an intake to make a 'plug and play' part fit... I would think that a non-emissions 6 into 1 header from MSA should above all, fit a 72 water jacket intake manifold L6 motor...shouldn't that be the default? Maybe not...is it that there isn't a 'default' shape to the header that would fit ALL 70-83 L6's? What seems to be the issue with MSA headers? Is it that the manufacturers just don't care, or that MSA doesn't kick their arse enough to change these type of issues? I agree Dave, that MSA's reps, (and I don't know much about them as I have only called them about 10 times) the reps just don't sound very knowledgeable, but they do try, but they do seem to be over 'confident' that their answers are correct. In customer service, I always thought that if I didn't know the answer 100% it's always better to let the customer know that, and tell them I'll double check.....but it doesn't seem that way with the MSA guys so I don't really ever take their answers well, but I guess with a grain of salt....

Good points Datsuns Rule... << I know some people (maybe not you) just don't have the equipment, room, or time to do work on there cars. >>> Not sure if the above applies to owning an early S30...I don't think there is any way you could own an S30 without having to work on them a bit, just because at 30+ years old, everything on them is wearing out and needs to be replaced (IMO)...I guess if you had a lot of money and either got one of the turnkeys or had the $$$ to always have them worked on, it'd be ok...I think that the s30's target market though are the humans who like working on a car a little bit--but like the natural muscle car type wrench monkey thing, because to me, the S30 is as close to an american car to work on as they get (to me at least).

Dave-- That ceramic MSA 6 into 1 header, I've thought of that one too... a few questions if i may, 1. did it fit well to the head? 2. once installed, did you then have the exhaust done? I guess you wouldn't have any issues with fitment if you did it that way 3. regular head intake/exhaust gasket or the MSA type that is 'heavy duty for headers'...I've heard that it's recommended to just use the standard gasket 4. I've heard a lot about keeping the resonator intact doing an exhaust, but it sounds like you took the resinator out--any issues with resonation at any rpms? just curious. 5. I think it's awesome they used your car!!!! As an upgrade option in the game, are you able to install one of your harnesses to make it faster? just kidding.

Sorry to hear that this happened--getting screwed over a Z is an awful feeling. It has happened to me as well (a long long time ago and not with my current 72). Just curious--how much did you pay for it? I might purchase a car on ebay without completely going through checking it out in person before I bought it IF it was being for for $1000 or less. I guess I went through the buyer beware stuff when I was 15-17 years old and have a hard time with thinking about buying anything off of ebay that is more expensive than a couple of hundred dollars, or if it is more expensive, something like the tokico's that cost 500 but from a very reputable seller that has sold lots of items on there. The ad description, beyond saying 'very near original and could be collectors condition" it never really says anything about the floors so maybe the seller thought if the floors were hidden with fiberglass that no one would see it. What happened when you discussed this stuff with the PO?

geeze 5k for a car that doesn't run correctly? If I was asking 5k for a car, and all it needed was a tuneup or some other small thing done, I would always get it done before I sold it--you should assume the same--so I would at this point assume something worse is wrong with it. Up in Oregon we have a company called E-Lemon-ators that will come out for a total of $75 they will check everything and hook up a full van full of DEQ type testing equipment to the motor, check compression, and make sure that the issue is minor--I've used it on the last 5 cars I've bought/checked out--and if the guy finds something badly wrong-he'll stop and just prorate the $75 price...which is nice--possibly you have this kind of company out there? reminds me--in your profile you can put where you live, so your general location is known in the left side bar--this can help us help you better--esp. if someone is nearby to you they can recommend local stuff that could help.

Count me in next Summer...will give me time to get my brakes completely refurbished....and ahem, get the wipers working!! I actually just sent off $30 total to Arizona Z car for complete wiper linkage from a 77....miss driving her the last few days....

it would be helpful to know if you're getting spark at the points or at the plugs as well--if you haven't done this, have someone turn over the motor w/ the key and have the dist. cap off and you look at the points--do you see a spark whenever they open up? You can also take out a spark plug and ground against the motor and see if you get a spark. Spark Yes/No is the first thing we need.

....seem to remember MSA sells a 'refreshener kit' that includes the plastic line specific to the S30 stock electric antenna....just a fyi--

ok, I might have a handle on parts...the problem, beyond the screw, is there has to be a large washer or something ? that goes between the nut and linkage, because the linkage hole is large that fits onto the motor with....figure there's a large washer of some sort....it came off going down the highway....couldn't find any of the parts...I'll take a closer look today.