dogma420

ok, I just called Beaverton Nissan...they say the wiper parts I need are part of the last linkage arm that attaches to the wiper motor and this isn't made anymore! Can anyone verify this? Does anybody that has these parts want to send me some asap! I will pay good $$ for them, need them to drive in the rainy Pacific NW!!!! Just PM me and I will reply asap tonight...let me know how much you want ... It sounds like the first linkage arm that attaches to the wiper motor used to be sold with all the attachment parts. What I need is whatever parts attach the arm to the motor (1972 but I believe all S30s are the same)...I have the rubber piece that is on the linkage arm that covers that joint at the wiper motor. What a piece for Nissan to not make anymore!!! PM me if you have these parts...should be something like a couple of strange looking washers and a c clip or such. I can't even find mine in the cowl area...I looked for 45 minutes last night.

easiest is to attach the 90 degree bending hose on the upper rear of the tank first, and have a 2nd person up above 'pulling' the hose through the hole in the floor into the cab while you are pushing the tank up, then bolt at least one of the straps on, and it should stay in place while you monkey with everything else.

Yesterday, the linkage arm fell off of my wiper motor, and in all the rain and cold, wasn't able to find any parts that fell off into the cowl area. I am just going to drive my 2nd car, and was wondering where I should purchase the parts necessary to attach the arm back onto the motor. Essentially I want to buy new (if possible) all parts that connect the motor and the linkage arm. Not sure what this entails at this point. I noticed that neither MSA or Dragon have any of these parts listed in their mag's....are these parts normally purchased at the Nissan dealership? If so, so I don't have to go down to the dealership in person, can anyone tell me what the part numbers / descriptions are so I can order them over the phone? I would really appreciate it.

for stickers you guys might try zeddsaver...the sticker guy...and I would email him actually... zeddsaver@zeddsaver.com If he doesn't supply them, I might do it after the hazard stickers...although I don't need these stickers.

Just wanted to give everyone an update on how my 240 is running, being that the tank was sealed up over a year ago. The case is closed. This tech how to article IMO is a 100% success. I have put 10,000 miles on her since the tank was pulled and the work done. When I did the work on the tank, I replaced the stock fuel filter up next to the mechanical fuel pump--I replaced it with one of those clear see-through ones I bought at NAPA. The filter is still crystal clear, and I have had zero issues in regards to the gas tank sealing job. I think we can safely say that the procedures I used to seal up my 240z gas tank would be recommended, and a safe long-term fix to a big-time problem--a rusty 240z gas tank. I would recommend POR15 as an excellent solution to dealing with rust issues on our S30s and any other issue regarding metal and rust. The price is very reasonable as well. Total project if I recall ran about $150 total (that's a higher end quote, it was probably less) with about 15 total man hours done rather slow, over the course of 2 full weekends, in the middle of the Summer at temperatures of high 80 degrees, low of 55-60 degrees. (I think temperature helps with curing is why I state this--it's better if the temperature is a little higher than the middle of Winter.) Also, the time taken I list above EXCLUDES a third weekend, that was in the middle of the work, where I dropped off the tank at Beaverton Radiator and let them take their own sweet time, as long as I got it back before the next weekend. www.por-15.com "POR-15 Stops Rust Permanently Factory Direct and Guaranteed"

Almost unrelated, but when I replaced my blower with the new Honda one, I simply removed the glove box... When I replaced it, I noticed that my box is probably original, and really in bad shape...I had to kinda smash it flatter to get it out through the glove box door...I miraculously didn't damage it much, but I bet I could if I tried it again.... When servicing the blower, and you don't want to take the dash out, is there a better way to remove the glove box other than how I did it--pulling it out through the glove box door hole? Thanks guys and I hope all the electrical fan issues are fixed!! ON the first few cold days here in Portland, this Honda blower just freakin rocks compared to the old one--I actually have to turn it down pretty quick (in the past I never turned it off of max).

I could help it gals and guys, this one is one great ebay item! Check it out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-BLACK-HOOD-LATCH-240z-260z-280z-280zx-Datsun-z_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33646QQihZ003QQitemZ130040322733QQrdZ1 I know this is a form letter (to a point), but c'mon....who would be duped? The black one the black one!!!! The rarest of them all...and jeez jeez JEEZ!!!!! The mounting plastic piece included too!!!!!! OH OH! IT'S FROM A ZX TOOO! THAT MAKES IT REALLY REALLY REALLY RARE! <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< (removed from a 280zx but I bellive it will fit any Z they all look the same...) >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'VE FAILED ALL THESE YEARS!!! THE 280ZX'S PARTS WILL FIT MY 240!!!! since they're all the same, I didn't even know that! Awesome man... OK, back to reality....I should've posted some boobies; instead, I post this drivel....sorry guys....

if the original sticker price was +13,000 us back in '80, then to not drive the thing and it was taking up space in some real good storage area, you'd have to make at least 30,000 on it--if not you look like an idiot...and there aren't very many people who would pay 30k even if it does have 8500 miles...remember the one in the Z mag that had 200 miles on it?

I was reading on usenet a post about grounding wire kits, here and this one guy said: This deals with when you are starting the car, the current the starter is using... << Like the eletronics guy said, if the cranking current cannot complete its circuit through the negative cable, it will try to find any other path available including smaller wires you may have added as a "grounding kit" or other wires which already exist in the wiring chassis such as radio, heater, ECU, sensors, alternator and/or regulator, etc. This can cause severe damage to any of these components. If you run higher amperage through a wire than the wire can handle, it will heat up and burn off its insullation. This may cause shorting with other wires or a fire as insulation can burn as well as other flamable items like plastic parts and interior. >> In other words, with these additional harnesses on the 240z (the headlight / parking light harneses / my radio direct to battery) should we make the ground on the battery/starter more strong, even if at this point in stock setup it is in perfect condition? I know that the kits are adding to + side of current, but never the less it made me think, as strengthening my ground is pretty cheap insurance but since I'm grounding illiterate (other than making stock have perfect wires and ground points).... The guy in his post also stated that using one of the grounding kits, once all the multiple points are on there, you don't need a ground to the body....is this right? That didn't make sense to me..... What does everyone thing (esp. Dave) about those grounding kits and about possible damage to things like those harnesses we've added to the + side such as headlight/parking light kits and myself with the radio.....is a well done stock ground good enough? or does what this guy say make sense? Thanks for reading my post, take care all,

I'm going to start a new thread on this, but was reading on usenet a post about grounding wire kits, and they said: This deals with when you are starting the car, the current the starter is using... <<Like the eletronics guy said, if the cranking current cannot complete its circuit through the negative cable, it will try to find any other path available including smaller wires you may have added as a "grounding kit" or other wires which already exist in the wiring chassis such as radio, heater, ECU, sensors, alternator and/or regulator, etc. This can cause severe damage to any of these components. If you run higher amperage through a wire than the wire can handle, it will heat up and burn off its insullation. This may cause shorting with other wires or a fire as insulation can burn as well as other flamable items like plastic parts and interior. >> In other words, with these additional harnesses on the 240z (the headlight / parking light harneses / my radio direct to battery) should we make the ground on the alternator more strong, even if at this point in stock setup it is in perfect condition? I know that the kits are adding to + side of current, but never the less it made me think, as strengthening my ground is pretty cheap insurance but since I'm grounding illiterate (other than making stock have perfect wires and ground points).... The guy in his post also stated that using one of the grounding kits, once all the multiple points are on there, you don't need a ground to the body....is this right? That didn't make sense to me.....

Got it Will! Please pm me your address for future correspondence. I'm giving you mine right now. Everyone standby; the next time you see this thread, I will have these stickers available.

possibly simply replacing my stock alternator (72 240) with a higher output (ie. ZX alternator) would eliminate the low output at idle... I'm more concerned with the fan slowing down at idle...I have a heavy duty pretty new battery, but stock alternator...Dave has said in the past this alternator is notorious for having a low output at idle....

ahh great info to know...

sent......................

you're the man Dave! ~dave

This would be directed at Z's on the brain, but also, just wondering if anybody else had any ideas; this might've been expressed already, and apologies if it has; I've been away for a while. Before I get A/C installed in my 240, I want to ensure my fan, when put on high setting, has the same output at highway speeds as it does at idle. I have a new honda fan, and the output at higher rpm's is incredible. This is extactly what I want from it all the time with A/C installed. I would imagine that some sort of modification, similiar to the headlight harness / tail ligth harness if applied to the heater fan, where the current comes from the battery instead of the alternator, would make this possible.... Since I am electrically an idiot, anyone have any ideas? My setup is just a stock alternator, and at this point I am not going to upgrade but probably will in the future, with probably using Arne's ideas on 280zx alternator...but that's not what I'm asking about here... Thanks for reading, Dog

of the people on here who have ordered carpets, who sells the carpets WITHOUT the holes for the luggage straps?

if you want carpet to cover the tranny tunnel, you should order the carpet kids for 74.5 260z's and/or for 280z's....these are the kits that would come with carpet for the tranny tunnel / rear shock towers. The 240z carpet kits don't come with these carpets.

bump bump bump

OK guys, I apologize profusely...I'm ALMOST really honestly about to do this project. I have gone through a tough bought with a serious MS attack, and really had no interest whatsoever in doing anything with the Z...just struggled to get better is all I was concerned about over the Summer, etc. My problem is this unfortunately-- My only hazard sticker from my Z was delicately removed by myself, and before shipping I placed it in a book to protect it...and then I had my attack and well, I can't find the darn sticker now... After looking in just about every book I own, I have given up on finding it. Anyways, anyone have any suggestions? PM me if need be. If I can get a sticker from someone, I would probably give out 10 of these to whoever helped me out...these should be profitable on ebay, not sure...I was really just doing them for everyone on this website, for very low (no profit) cost or trade for parts... Possibly someone has a parts car that has a useable sticker still on the dash...I would be able to send back this sticker, along with at least 10 of the new ones...any takers? Anyways, if anyone has a 1972 hazard sticker, shaped like a cross (pictures earlier in this thread), that is still perfect on the outline of the sticker, with at least a few letters showing and all else can be totally faded... Thanks for reading my post, I appreciate it. Everyone have a great week, and in the Portland area, it looks like a great week and weekend coming up for a nice Z drive before the rain starts in!

Why are ya'll having problems with stock brakes? When properly configured, they work great! They are not as strong as a 2005 new car, but they work good...better than the descriptions mentioned here. Possible air in lines? leaks?

280 master--- There should actually be only 1 key for the whole car--something got replaced on your car. Don't give out misinformation.

Just a FYI, A 1974.5 big bumper 260z turn signal switch plugged right into my 10/71 1972 240z...different year than yours however.

actually the pickup tube and sending unit are in the same section of tank, so what would baffle relief gaps being sealed have anything to do with this?

Well to start with, do you have the original motor installed for the low-vin 240z you have? That would be important for anyone on here to know in going forward for any help.