dogma420

....on second look, I'd have to say the 'N' or 'Z' is a N as in Nissan. The key has no mention of the 240z anywhere on it. Good call Montoya.

wasn't in the loop back year on the 3 su setup, have you tried that yet, Dave?

I'm looking at mine right now, I'd have to say it's a Z

Dave, I'm not sure what the big deal is with paypal...you just increase your shipping and handling figure to offset the cost of using it...on ebay, its the way to go, having sold lots of stuff on there....the cost of paypal transactions shouldn't effect anything you do on there, imo. You don't get screwed by people sending checks either...once the money is in your paypal account, nobody's touching it but you, and you don't ship til its there.

vissan-- Start a new thread; adding a different topic (however similiar) to an old thread is bad ediquette.

...or napa must make one where it looks stock at the terminal, with 2 4 guage wires come out of it (both red)....what do you all think?

so is 4 guage the same size as the normal battery cable? If so, I should probably look into getting a 2 output post for this...anybody have any suggestions? This is one area where I'm not very knowledgeable, but I do always 'redo' my connections each year at least one on my posts, with a cleaner, and spray some of that red stuff every time on them--has always worked good for me. Attached is a photo of a dual wire connector, one connects at 6 oclock and one connects at 3 oclock...what does everyone think?

I didn't ask for anybody to talk me out of something I want to do. More than likely, I'll improve the wiring on my car. Don't need any lectures. I personally couldn't car less if my wiring is stock; its 30+ years old anyways--that in itself means its not the best wiring to begin with. I'm not showing it. Wipers are only slow on my car under 1500 rpm...otherwise, they're as fast as any other car I've ever driven. I'm going to get an aftermarket alternator, and then at idle they will be as fast as anything. If you take apart the motor and regrease and clean the linkages, it helps a lot. I've asked dave about this being an upgrade, and he simply mentioned about the fact that the stock alternator doesn't work under 1500 rpms as well as we'd like. So I don't know.

Dave, I have a quick question-- I just bought a new stereo, and i want it to have wiring straight from the battery and I'm about to install the parking light harness, so I bought a 4 into 1 bracket, that allows me to have 1 wire coming from the battery positive to this connector and splitting it up...I'm going to have 3 items on it, the headlight harness, the parking light harness, and my car stereo, and this is only going to have the stereo's power, its a $130 Pioneer 50w x 4 deck, nothing special. Anyways, the car stereo place (where I got this setup) gave me some 8 guage wire to use between the battery and the connection. Do you think this is adequate? or should I go with a regular battery cable size guage wire? Thanks in advance,

I wonder if anyone has tackled installing cruise control in their 240z...I'd like to use it for trips to the beach, etc. I use cc all the time in my conversion van, and I miss it when driving around in my Z. I live in Dayton, Oregon, which is 35 miles out of downtown Portland, and there are some stretches where cc would be nice to have. It seems that the aftermarket cruise control units out there, like Audiovox's CSS-100 http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=341067&langId=-1 are meant to be used with the throttle controlled with a cable, not with just linkage, like our 240z's are. Does anyone out there have any experience with cruise controls on their Datsuns? I'm very interested, and would appreciate any and all help. I did just submit the same question about cable vs. linkage to Audiovox's help desk online, and they said that they'd get back to me. (we'll see!) Thanks for reading,

I'm interested in installing intermittent feature for my wipers on my 1972 240z. Not really interested in doing the upgrade to 73, as I want more than just 1 setting, kinda like my 94 dodge van has like 10 different intermittent settings. I've found this one (yeah, I know, JC Whitney, but hey, I've bought stuff from them before)... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004485/showCustom-0/p-2004485/N-111+10201+600003811/c-10101 looks reasonable, any comments? Any first personal accounts of installing anything like this would be helpful. Thanks everyone, for reading my post.

<<< Further, with regard to the lockable fuel flap >>> Aussie mates, could somebody post a picture of what the lockable fuel flap looks like? I would like to buy one myself if anybody has an extra, would it be possible to ship to USA? I would pay for this, thanks! Would like to see a picture though first. Thanks guys!

C'mon guys, quit knocking on the guy already...I mean, hey, Clowns like Z cars too ya know.

Not enough emphasis on stereo...just kidding.

I'll have to look through my old pictures and scan some and send you some Matt, my 74.5 looked great for a kid's car...I was going through that 'chrome blacked out' period, didn't know nothing about the Z's at that time...took electrical tape and covered all chroming and had tinted headlight covers...looked pretty good, but you could tell a kid owned it. When I find some pictures, I'll scan them and post them.

That reminds me Matt, back in 88 or 89, I remember having my first Z, a 74.5 260z, big bumpers (so it looked just like yours on the outside)...had weber DGV's so it ran nice. Some lady pulled out in front of me and I ran into her and pushed the bumper in about 3-4 inches and cut / damaged all the rubber. I know the stuff is quite impossible to get now, but insurance replaced ALL the front bumper items with new stuff--the big bumpers don't look as nice as the 240z's bumpers, but that new bumper with all the new rubber actually looked great (IMO)...hard to believe, but all the bumper pieces (shocks, rubber, main bumper piece) came to a grand total on insurance if I remember of about $600 in 1989. Try that now!

they sit on the inspection lid, right spack dab in the middle of the metal piece on the inspection lid that the hood falls down onto--so the little extra piece that I normally use to pull open the inspection lid, that is where this rubber goes. If you close the hood, the hood would be touching this area on the inspection lid.

I think for an adult, if you compare the 240z to the way even the 74.5 260z with carbs looks, it does look like a 'nightmare' but only if you know by having both. The 74.5 260z with carbs and big bumpers, I had one, and it had the fusible links, the interlock on the seats, and generally was a nightmare of wires compared to the simple setup of my 240. But to a 3 year old, yeah, i'd figure the wiring would be a nightmare, but then again, a 'for 6 years and up' lego set would probably be a nightmare too.

A large 105 or 120 zspecialties alternator will probably make no difference in light brightness without Dave's harness (IMO, if someone else knows otherwise please reply). Also, per Dave (can you vouch for this) I was talking to him about how everthing is working perfect (after the harness install), but was wondering why I still had problems with wiper speed and turn signal blinking speed under 1500 rpms...both items slowed down even with the harness installed. He mentioned that the stock alternator doesn't start pumping out adequate amps until it hits 1500rpm. Thus, this is why I am going to get the 120 amp alternator. I am also planning on upgrading my stereo; I'm getting one of those Pioneer decks from Walmart that play mp3s (I have a sony cd changer controlling deck with cd changer right now) and by putting the mp3 one in, I can play 10 discs like on my cd changer on ONE cd by using mp3s. Plus I save all the space my cd changer takes up. Yeah! Anyways, I'm not an audio freak, but I like nice clean sound, with a little bass to back it up. I plan on putting 5.25" in custom enclosures in the area right above the footrest on each side in the front, and use the 6x9 enclosure that MSA sells. Then I'm getting the best money can buy 5.25's and 6x9s and getting a nice 100watt to 250 watt mosfet amp, not sure which one. I don't listen too loud, but I do want it to sound clear with good bass when I turn it up. Enough off subject! The 105 amp would be great for the 'slowness' of the wipers and turn signal blinking under 1500 rpm's but it isn't going to do a thing about making the headlights 'brighter' like Dave's harness. (if I'm wrong please tell me so and explain!). Dave-- possibly a suggestion would be to make an alternative wiring harness with no ends for 260 and 280 folks, with the price cheaper. I know this probably flies in the face of your policies (it probably would mine) but I'm pretty biased being a 240 owner only. The 260/280 people should have some kind of access to your harness. It's definitely worth $125 and then they could go find connectors at the junkyard from a junker to make it plug and play...or they might not even care about modifying the wiring... But if you were to take off the price/labor of connecting those connectors that are only on the 240z, that would make the harness much cheaper? I think it might be something to consider for the 260/280 people, as these cars I feel have pretty much the same rights the 240 does to quality parts. Well, not equal, but close...just kidding.

well yeah blake, I'm not trying to be so specific; you don't have to waste your time with trivial stuff. I've been in the Zed loop a long time and its assumed that the 4 speed was standard and the 5 speed an option.

Keep an eye out for Oregon 280z's but unless its 1,000 or under, can afford it for at least 6 months. I'm selling another vehicle before I actually am serious about getting a 280z.

<< Dogma, my prediction is that you will get bit by the WIAI bug >> Ken, what is this bug? Remember, I own a 72 240z that has been a virtual money pit, so I know about that. I just get tired of doing the 5 speed day in and day out, and the wife refuses to use a manual (girls!)... No ZXs sorry, and I'm not ready right this second to purchase. Just looking and asking, thanks everyone for the questions. One question: Why was the rear deck raised up on the 77-78 (or if I'm wrong, why is everything, such as the rear taillight panel and carpet, different than the rest).... My 240 has fat tires, and as a daily driver, I don't particularly like shifting and parking lot steering every single freaking day (I use my cell phone a lot, 99% in the shifting Z with my bluetooth headset, but still, manuals suck for cell phones)...I love her, and I'll keep her until my son is about 45 or 50 years old and then hand it off....would be nervous before then. As far as the big bumpers, doesn't matter what year, they are all ugly (in comparison to my 72)...I had a big bumper 260z, so I've had the rounded look ones, I think I want to try the 77-78 style (I kinka like the body colored panel right under the taillights). I would keep it a sleeper, all stock on the outside. Just basic engine upgrades and keep it in tune, and NWcubsman, I will probably take it through DEQ for a free emission test from time to time, as if it passes, the car is healthier anyways (no DEQ in Dayton, where I live). You never know though, chances are all states will be like California eventually, and when Oregon decides they want more tax money (like any day knowing Oregon) they will make DEQ testing mandatory state-wide...they've been talking about that anyways for a long time as it is. Surprised they haven't done it yet, actually. It is nice that my 72 doesn't have to go through emissions...though it was always odd that they locked the year at 1975...I mean, does that mean in the year 2050 that a 76 280z needs to pass emissions? Stupid man, Stupid. I actually just bought a house in Dayton (35 miles from Downtown Portland) and there isn't any DEQ emission testing while living out here, so emissions doesn't matter (at least right now in Oregon). I would keep it stock, with thin tires for easy steering, and has to be an automatic (already got a 77 5 speed in my 240)...automatic so for emergency backup my lady can hot rod it. As I get older, automatics seem much more likeable, and I love driving my conversion van, and it is automatic. I don't necessarily crave the fuel injection, because from experience the SUs are about as easy as it gets to keep in tune..have never had any probs there, and I'm just about to get a 280zx dizzy so my ignition problems should disappear. Lighting issues have all but disappeared--the 2 lighting kits from Dave I. just rock and make my 240 feel like a new car. Other than the 'defective' stock alternator, which Dave has said doesn't even operate until 1200-1500 rpm's (well it does but barely according to him)...after all the upgrades, the only issue with the charging system is that the wipers are still slow at idle (the turn signals are slower than normal at idle as well)....I plan on getting one of the Zspecialties 120amp alternators and drop in a fancy smancy 50x4 pioneer cd player (well fancy for an almost 40 year old)....more 'money pit' money...but I think the alternator would be money well spent. Zspecialties is a good company. Thanks for reading my ramblings.... NWCubsman, I missed the last get together at janzen beach, are us Oregonians thinking of getting together anytime soon? I plan on getting a complete brake job around end of March, and then I'm good to go with my Z...it's on jacks right now getting the outer tie rods and boots replaced...passenger side tire moves a good 1/2" left to right without the tie rod moving...can you say wasted? I love my 240z but it IS and always will be a large MONEY PIT...like in the movie...."Hey Dave, when is your Z going to be ready to drive to the MSA show?" Me: "in 2 weeks!" Luckily, the value keeps going up because people either wreck them, thieves stupidly steal and wreak them, or people refuse to give money to the money pit. Either way, it seems us 240z people benefit for value (esp. those with the low vin ones). Cheers,

well, on the strap note being for early cars, I am not sure if the base is useable on a steel spring bottom (use straps on a steel for authenticity if needed to)....if they aren't interchangeable, I have a strap bottom I would trade for a steel bottom if someone needs the strap bottom for a show car, etc.... doubt it, but you never know. I have the whole recline seat upper as well...I could break down to just metal and ship (strap clips that attach to square tube base would be included). Anybody have a steel bottom they want to sell me? It is a more comfortable, not to mention longer lasting original style seat solution. Thanks!

nothing like you guys wasting time talking about this car...maybe in his world this is a great car...I don't think its target audience would be us. I bet in his bubble there is somebody that is going to like to purchase it. But yeah, for more like 29.50...someone should send an email to him asking if the asking price is a misprint and if he was offering 29.50. Should sold it as a car stereo with optional car.