zed240au

you really need to decide what you want from your car dont for a minute think a 350 chev is a cheap install if your chasing hp yes you can get a cheap 350 but most are only good for 200 hp and gearboxes are not cheap unless you buy a engine already modified or a crate engine then you spending well on the way to a set triples and strong rebuild for the std motor dont get me wrong im all for v8 conversion i have one and are currently doing a upgrade for more hp my target is 400hp so i know i cant get this from a std motor and still have a engine that is happy to cruise around and return reasonable fuel consumption but it will cost in excess of $10,000 aussie dollars for less than that money i could have a killer 3.1 l series motor with triple webbers and 300hp so id say set your targets and budget then decide if a std engine can deliver what you want for your budget or whether you need to choose another engine regards mick

if pumps working you should be getting fuel when its turned on to run position check fuses first might be simple mick

might need big hammer to move first bit but most likey just a normal workshop hammer with good thump will do it would be prudent to replace bearings while your doing it not a job you do very often so might as well do it right mick

well dont really see the need for special tools its only a bearing fit so two methods i would suggest is 1 if u have access to a press press shaft out just not sure if you can get somewhere to press against and u need to remove complete strut from car 2 method i have used as shaft is busted just hammer it out its only a firm bearing fit so it will slide out if shafts still ok use brass dolly on shaft i know the hammer route sounds rough but being a electric motor rewinder by trade its the way we removed and replaced bearings on 50 % motors we rewound let me know what a bearing kit costs cost me $65 per side recently one of the bearings is a real werid one

luv that dr30 skyline i know its over the top but man it would turn heads and blow most cars to the weeds was my favorite car in grand turismo mick

not my taste but at least the guy likes the car and has looked after it better to see a zed with someone who cares about it mick

suppose it all depends on what you want info i have locally was a a guy running a sr20 in a 200sx which with major work was pushing 527 hp on dyno but didnt last a rally out he found 500hp was the limit for std crank even though he was running good rods upgraded turbos big dollar pistons but he reckoned he could get it to last with custom crank but had already spent mega bucks to get to this level for me i reckon the chev ls1 is the pic at the moment 400 hp is easy and still relaible and reasonable economy plus if you want more its all avliable off shelf would recomend hybrid z for more info on conversions mick

i bought cheap auto welding mask its battery and solar works great man i thought going from old green lens to colour was good but auto is awsome can us your hands to hold job As far as worrying about a old small mig id say u dont need much better for body work i did all my bodywork with small mig works great on thin which most of a zed is up to 5/16 or 3/8 main thing a welder told me was clean it before u weld it either grinding wheel or strip and clean wheel makes all the difference to a good finish i learnt the hard way on datsun 510 and 200b welding rusty painted thing panels is a real art

thanks for telling me your reasons makes sense i find i read and learn all the time on these sites usually after I ve researched something and bought the parts someone mentions a better way Just cant keep changing so ill run with the 300zx cv set up see how long they last with new engine keep your solution idea there as back up Your set up sure does look good Mick

just gonna through this out there and ask anyway but why go to the extra trouble of making it up this way and not go the modern motorsport way I mean if your looking at cv its not keeping the car orginal thats the issue for me it was simple buy 300zx turbo cv shafts $225 adaptors for stub axles $250 $475 aussie dollars now your gonna tell me i need a r200 to do this well the reason i wanted cv was to handle more hp so need r200 for that r200 lsd $850 but ill recoup that when i sell my r180 lsd also upgraded to 280z stubs at same time so why go the other way this way its all easily replaceable with off shelf parts mick

hi got a werid stub axle flange here wondering if anyone can identify it fits 260z or 280z 27 spline stub axle but looks different and is 4mm longer not sure if it will work any ideas be good thanks its the one on the left mick

the best idea with chemical is to keep it away from anywhere u will have trouble cleaning it back out of and if you just repairing to tidy up and panel is straight with bondo sand it and leave bondo in place keep chemical away other wise your just redoing what someone has already fixed the clean and strip wheels will move a lot more paint quicker than wire wheel wire is better on edges in cracks and hard to get places i found mick

wire brushes want scratch the metal I used them in some place found the ones that fit onto 4" angle grinders work really well can get in all sorts of places and strip quickly As for the clean and strip wheels if u use them on flat and areas with no edges they will last a lont time soon as u start on edges they will rip down but i still reckon there worth usung to clean up with and do the areas where u dont wnt to use chemical paint stripper

i like paint stripper and 3m clean and strip wheels use the paint stripper on the big areas and clean strip wheel to clean up and do edges

hi pictures attached pic 1 is the 240z 260z together pic 2 is 240z stub and pic 3 is 260z with bumps mick

sure know worries have pm u mick

yeah think the 240 reasonably strong stubs just when u start pumping more hp through they might get stressed its not that enjoyable driving on three wheels on rally i was in with my rx4 we came over a crest about 160 km on gravel next thing im not steering the car back left wheel goes sailing past lucky the mud stopped us 1 foot short of a big tree stump lesson in that not all wheel nuts have the same angle used a set from the guy i bought an rx4 shell off with my mags different angle to the nut and hole Then last weekend im out on my new raptor 4 wheeler and bugger be dead if the left back wheel dont go sailing past got say it was easier to handle than the rx4 on three wheels so you do want the best nuts and stubs holding your wheels on

hi gavin well they arrived today the 260 do have 27 splines as well as 4 raised knobs on wheel side flange at least 240 stub has 25 splines flat face to stub axle wheel side can email u pic if you want gavin

hi gavin the main differnce in the later 260z or 280z hubs are that they have 27 splines compared to 25 on the 240z or earlier 260z stub axles other wise they look the same i am upgrading to cv shafts and the adaptors i have will weld to either 240z style or later style as theres no difference in the axle flange that bolts to axles Now im waiting on my second set to be sent to me after being assured the first set where later 260z only to recieve and see there was no difference the guy even told me i didnt know what i was talking about been told since he no longer works for that z shop the boss assures me he sent me the right ones this time so im waiting to see he did make comment that on the later 260 the should be 4 humps or marks not on the 240 ones my worry is that on my current 240z stubs one has 4 humps and the other doesnt so will wait and see be just as easy to count the splines i reckon as such the 240z flange should not fit a later 260z stub as for the cv conversion its really only the extra strengh u gain from extra splines mick

other option for rear is the modern motorsport idea using 300zx rear discs 290 mm and 240sx calipers just dont know how easy the 240sx calipers are to find in australia could use modern motosport caliper mount source discs locally DBA list them on there internet site wouldnt be that hard to make caliper mount up made my own for the mazda calipers

kent ive been running 290 mm falcon front discs with 4 spot hilux calipers and 250 mm rears with single piston calipers for years no problem quite well balanced would agree that a adjustable bias valve would be a good idea to adjust the brakes i been running a izuzu one for years but got a wilwood one the other day off ebay $110 so its not a big expense as for master cylinders ive been running std 240z right through

no im planing on using the shafts as they are got local cv shop to check them out and he said they in really good shape Reversed outer bearing know worries just popped end cap off shaft and undid circlip pulled bearing cage off slipped it back on reversed and put circlip back on shaft end cap tapped home and done too easy

ive been using mazda 929 rear discs and calipers for years work fine there a 258 mm disc and slided straight over the 240z stud axles have worked fine with hilux 4 x 4 vent front discs and std master cylinder

that was the before shot heres the after had to look a bit at first myself but pretty sure i got it worked out now

ok heres a pic i found on hybridz explaining how to reduce length of 300zx shafts will be trying it my self tonight see if it changes anything