jlenownnab

Great info, thanks. I met friend/mechanic this morning. The car started perfect 12 times in a row in a 2 hour period, no miss either. Unable to trouble shoot a perfectly good running car, my guy checked and cleaned several grounds. He also added an extra ground from the starter to the frame. When I turn the key I hear the auxiliary click. After reading your last post I paid close attention while turning the key, the key turns effortlessly and the starter engages without overturning the key. I guess for now I need to wait for it to act up again to troubleshoot further. Thanks

I replaced the back side of the ignition only. I also cleaned connections before re- installing. The 8 to 9k is referring to the rpm that Zed asked me about ( I had just called it great). I didn' t realize I was leaving anything out, just trying to answer your questions. Unfortunately, I know very little about cars, so I don't always pick up on what people are saying or asking right away. Sorry.

I put a new ignition switch in yesterday from Z car Depot.

Only wait a few seconds between tries

I'm meeting a buddy in the morning to work on it. I feel like the click noise is near starter, I will pin point in morning if it will do it for me. Will also check volt meter. Anything else? Thank you

8 to 9k rpm. When I turn the key all the way on it sometimes just clicks, when I turn it back off then try again sometimes it starts and sometimes it will click again. I keep trying til it eventally starts. I don't know if warm or cold has anything to do with miss, I was just saying how it acted yesterday, it seems to just be random and no rhyme or reason. When I tried it a few hours ago everything was great like there was nothing wrong with it.

RPM are great, same as they have always been. The car idles very smoothly, you can't really tell it's missing until you rev it. I started it twice the other day, cold start in morning had no miss. I started it in the afternoon after sitting all day and it had the miss. I let the car sit and idle while I came inside and posted the problem on the forum, as slow as I type it was an easy ten minutes. Can ran perfect after warmed up. Any ideas on the click when I turn the key??

I need to check in to injectors closer and see if terminals are getting warm when no start. I have Nissan cables from motorsport, I have checked grounds and they have been cleaned and tightened. Thanks for reply.

What freakin gives!!! So I found the problem why it starts and runs for 2 seconds and shuts off, so I'm good right? Wrong! I mentioned above that sometimes when I turn the key it clicks. So I just replaced the starter and the ignition, still doing it. Next... when I first start it now it has a bad miss, sounds like its running on 5 cylinders. After you let it run for a while 5 to 10 minutes at idle it smooths out? Is that related to an electrical part going out? Is that maybe an injector problem? Any help is always appreciated, thanks in advance. Stewart

I really don't know about my miles. If you think about it though, I grew up in the 70s and my parents lived there whole life in a 6 or 7 mile radius. It was like going on a road trip if I had a ball game 15 miles away. Let's just call it original miles! I can't wait to see your car finished, so far it's awesome.

Looks great Mark. I have the same cabinet as you and seem to be fighting all the same issues, love the cabinet though. I put clutch and brake pedal rubbers on yesterday. It helps me believe my 71,000 undocumented miles on my 1975 are actual miles. With the car being as clean as it is my only thing to go off of was the pedal wear.

I read that earlier, unbelievable! Cadillac is advertising hands free on the highway, why? What's the point in sitting in the seat? What if a deer runs out or a part or something falls off the car in front of you? Insane!

That's what I was afraid of, missing the Z nationals trying to get it running again (not really, but I was stressing over it not running).

I want to let everyone know what I found, never know if it will help someone. I did all the recommendations from responses except open AFM. I wanted to verify fuel pump was getting power before anything further. Long story short.... when I replaced the negative cable on the battery I went ahead and unhooked the positive also. I then removed the battery for some cleaning. Unknown to me, when I put the battery back in and hooked everything up, a connector was slightly separated on positive cable. Ends up the fuel injection wiring runs to the positive and negative side of the battery. So happy to have it running again.

Sounds good, thanks. Will do this morning.