jlenownnab

Great info, thanks. I met friend/mechanic this morning. The car started perfect 12 times in a row in a 2 hour period, no miss either. Unable to trouble shoot a perfectly good running car, my guy checked and cleaned several grounds. He also added an extra ground from the starter to the frame. When I turn the key I hear the auxiliary click. After reading your last post I paid close attention while turning the key, the key turns effortlessly and the starter engages without overturning the key. I guess for now I need to wait for it to act up again to troubleshoot further. Thanks

I replaced the back side of the ignition only. I also cleaned connections before re- installing. The 8 to 9k is referring to the rpm that Zed asked me about ( I had just called it great). I didn' t realize I was leaving anything out, just trying to answer your questions. Unfortunately, I know very little about cars, so I don't always pick up on what people are saying or asking right away. Sorry.

I put a new ignition switch in yesterday from Z car Depot.

Only wait a few seconds between tries

I'm meeting a buddy in the morning to work on it. I feel like the click noise is near starter, I will pin point in morning if it will do it for me. Will also check volt meter. Anything else? Thank you

8 to 9k rpm. When I turn the key all the way on it sometimes just clicks, when I turn it back off then try again sometimes it starts and sometimes it will click again. I keep trying til it eventally starts. I don't know if warm or cold has anything to do with miss, I was just saying how it acted yesterday, it seems to just be random and no rhyme or reason. When I tried it a few hours ago everything was great like there was nothing wrong with it.

RPM are great, same as they have always been. The car idles very smoothly, you can't really tell it's missing until you rev it. I started it twice the other day, cold start in morning had no miss. I started it in the afternoon after sitting all day and it had the miss. I let the car sit and idle while I came inside and posted the problem on the forum, as slow as I type it was an easy ten minutes. Can ran perfect after warmed up. Any ideas on the click when I turn the key??

I need to check in to injectors closer and see if terminals are getting warm when no start. I have Nissan cables from motorsport, I have checked grounds and they have been cleaned and tightened. Thanks for reply.

What freakin gives!!! So I found the problem why it starts and runs for 2 seconds and shuts off, so I'm good right? Wrong! I mentioned above that sometimes when I turn the key it clicks. So I just replaced the starter and the ignition, still doing it. Next... when I first start it now it has a bad miss, sounds like its running on 5 cylinders. After you let it run for a while 5 to 10 minutes at idle it smooths out? Is that related to an electrical part going out? Is that maybe an injector problem? Any help is always appreciated, thanks in advance. Stewart

I really don't know about my miles. If you think about it though, I grew up in the 70s and my parents lived there whole life in a 6 or 7 mile radius. It was like going on a road trip if I had a ball game 15 miles away. Let's just call it original miles! I can't wait to see your car finished, so far it's awesome.

Looks great Mark. I have the same cabinet as you and seem to be fighting all the same issues, love the cabinet though. I put clutch and brake pedal rubbers on yesterday. It helps me believe my 71,000 undocumented miles on my 1975 are actual miles. With the car being as clean as it is my only thing to go off of was the pedal wear.

I read that earlier, unbelievable! Cadillac is advertising hands free on the highway, why? What's the point in sitting in the seat? What if a deer runs out or a part or something falls off the car in front of you? Insane!

That's what I was afraid of, missing the Z nationals trying to get it running again (not really, but I was stressing over it not running).

I want to let everyone know what I found, never know if it will help someone. I did all the recommendations from responses except open AFM. I wanted to verify fuel pump was getting power before anything further. Long story short.... when I replaced the negative cable on the battery I went ahead and unhooked the positive also. I then removed the battery for some cleaning. Unknown to me, when I put the battery back in and hooked everything up, a connector was slightly separated on positive cable. Ends up the fuel injection wiring runs to the positive and negative side of the battery. So happy to have it running again.

Sounds good, thanks. Will do this morning.

I bought the AFM last year, it is for a 75. I will check hoses and open AFM if I have to. It seems odd that one day it runs great and the next it doesn't.

I'm not sure why members are having trouble reading my post? The intermittent click is on the back burner for a minute. For whatever reason the car only runs for 2 seconds then shuts off? New AFM, recent tune up, checked connections/grounds, checked for vacuum leaks?? Car ran great last week. After trying to start it repeatedly, I don't smell has?? Not flooding.

Hey Zed, the tach does not jump when the battery pack is unhooked.

Hello, I'm not having any luck finding a close enough scenario due to other members modifications, etc...so I'm starting this. This is a car I took everything out of-the engine bay, removed the suspension, drive train, gas tank, etc. - last winter and freshened it all up. This car has been great for the last year. The only flaw has been sometimes when I turn the key it clicks once and does nothing. When I try starting it a second time it fires right up. So, being winter I thought I would do a few things on the list to better my car. 1st. I wanted to send my combo switch and turn signal off to Dave and have that rebuilt. It came back, I installed it along with the upgraded turn signal flasher per Dave's advice. It was a little bit tricky getting it seated properly so the horn worked, but I finally got it working. I did not try and start the car when completed, but I did turn the key to the on position and checked turn signals, wipers and lights. All were working nicely. 2nd. I decided to pull my coil out for media blasting and paint. I started to undo the negative side of my battery and decided not to because the terminal was in bad shape. After the coil was painted I was carrying it over to the car for installation and dropped it. The coil has a slight dent in bottom edge. After installing it I tried to start the car, the starter kept turning it over but no fire, no gas smell either. 3rd. I purchased a new coil from O' Rileys. I installed it and tried to start the car and after a couple long sessions of turning the key over it finally started. Not convinced that was the problem, I re-installed the coil I dropped and the car fired right up. I drove the car around the block and it ran perfect. 4th. I replaced the starter in hopes that the starter on the car maybe had a dead spot or was just starting to go bad, causing the car not to always start on the first try. When finished with that, the car would not start again. I remembered I started undoing the negative terminal on the battery while removing coil so I went back to there. ( Although, all I did with it originally was work it a little with my hand, no tools.) After wiggling the negative terminal, the car fired right up (the horn stopped working now). 5th. I was Unable to tighten the negative terminal so I decided to buy a new one from Motorsport Z. I installed the new negative cable/terminal and once again it won't start. The car turns the starter fast and sounds great. But, it will only run for two seconds and it shuts off. If I try to depress the accelerator to keep it running, it dies immediately. Also, the tachometer jumps around when the key is in the on position with the car not running. I do have a jump box hooked up to the battery. While trying to start the car I do not smell gas in the engine bay. The AFM is new, the grounds are good,. I tried upping the idle, no help. I come to you great fellow Z owners to help me get her on the road again. Thanks, Stewart

I know, dumb question, but I don't want to break a clip or something. I messed with it for a few minutes and I am not sure how it comes off?

Everybody I talk to said it gets too hot and if it was just that I would have had it removed on my own but I didn't want to go through pulling the glass and cutting it at the pillars

Thanks, I took that car to many body shops and everybody said the same thing..... The whole roof skin needs to be replaced. The guy that bought the car off me, he's going to do it I even sold him a 73 parts car with a good roof and headliner The Body Shops did not want to touch it they just want to do Collision work and even if they did they wanted 4500 minimum.

For the last year I have been thinking off and on about selling my 70, Vin #4213. It is excellent driver quality, I have put over 4,000 miles on it the last 4 summers, it has never left me stranded. For the last 8 months I have been chasing down an electrical problem. I have been through 2 alternators, a battery, voltage regulator and wire tracing. Still only putting out 11 amps. I also have a super nice 75, one owner til me, 71,000 mile car with blue tooth, cold a/c and a 5 spd. Long story short, I have watched Ebay, Craigslist and Bring a trailer trying to figure out what my very nice 60,000 mile 2 owner 70 with a SUNROOF was worth. Well, last Sunday, I had 2 men come to my shop from 2 hours away to buy some Miata parts off me. They went straight to the Datsun, pointed out the hatch vents and were wowed I had a series one. These guys were serious collectors, they were judges at the Lexington Ky Concourse D'Elegance, they knew their stuff. They offered me $14,500 right then and there. So, I made a phone call to a Cincinnati Concourse judge that knew my car and had showed interest in it, he said don't do anything crazy, I will give you $17,000 for it tomorrow, that was the magic number for me. SOLD! As much as I loved that car and I knew I would not be able to ever replace it in my price range, I still sold it, because I hated that sunroof. So, I am tickled to death to have an awesome 75 and still be a Z owner, but, it is also nice to know the sunroof cars can bring a decent buck. The car sold with 14" slotted wheels, carpeted inside (diamond vinyl removed on trans hump and rockers), needing some slight body work behind front wheel well and some rockers that were in need of straightening out and the gauges all had 40 year old stickers on them that would not come off. Other than that the car was pretty nice.

I don't know I don't really remember now been a while

It was a minature car with a zx body that datsun produced for a limited time. Like a go cart