jlenownnab

thanks for taking the time to make the video Dave. We did check for continuity at fuseable links, we did check for blown fuses and had found one, lighter/clock. I will be heading down to my shop today and will check everything you guys mentioned. Should have it going shortly. Will keep you posted. Stewart

I will post more pics tomorrow, not exactly sure what I have.... I think its mostly original. I have come along way since I bought my 1970 4 yrs ago, but I still have not got a grip on the electrical. I am learning a lot tonight and understanding it better just talking with you, thanks.

Yes, the car drives when battery is charged despite the vacuum leak.

I just bought this car out of Dallas off Ebay. It is a one owner 70k garage kept, no rust all original car. It was on Ebay in late march early April from Texas Classic Cars (Thieves). They showed it in front of an airplane. The car came off the transporter barely running. So far I have fixed 3 fuel line leaks, alt, bat, volt reg and I have a car that still doesn't run. The tach lays all the way dead. The fuel gauge doen't work and it has a vacuum leak I have to find. But, low and behold the clock works, so I have that going for me. Can the tach problem be related to the distributer? And yes.... I probably paid to much for it with said problems.

any idea why tach isn't working??

yep, he will agree with you. He is a master with Miatas. I will go over this post with him, it's probably the wrong alt though. Thanks

It wouldn't shock me if Orielys gave me the wrong part. He has been 20 years at big Toyota dealership, he's good. He is just trying to learn the wiring diagram and make sense of an old car. thankyou for your help.

pics would be great in morning, thankyou. will check fuse too.

I asked orielys for an alt for a 75

I have a 75, he said I should consider putting a internally reg alt in but I like to keep things original. I asked orielys for a alternator for a my tachometer isn't working either, not sure if that is related? he prob meant sense, he said he has to get back to old school thinking. there is a "t" shaped plug, I don't remember seeing a screw down terminal on bat. where is that coming from? thanks.

if we have power at the altenator and the voltage regulator, is there anything else that could cause no output?

I was told by my mechanic to post that on the Forum unfortunately I do not know how to trace the electrical system and have somebody doing that for me. I will have him go to that other post thank you.

Hello, I have searched previous threads and am not coming up with an answer. I have no power at the signal wire from the voltage regulator to the altenator. I have replaced the altenator, then the battery, then I thought maybe I got a bad altenator and replaced it again after getting it bench tested, then the voltage regulator in that order. Any ideas?? Thank you in advance.

Thankyou, thankyou. I figured it was a counter weight or something. Back to another full day of z ing. Three of the four brake hoses wouldnt come loose, thats gonna kill my day.

I did not pay attention to which way this part was facing when i tore the car down! It's off a 77, It will go on either way but I want to make sure I get it right. It attatches under and behind the rear diff. Does any body have a name for this part and which way it faces? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for replies, it seems like the loop is more popular. Im hoping the 14" tires arent to to bad of a ride. I reallly was thinking i want to use original hub caps. Kind of going for stock look on this one.

i want to replace the carpet in my 77 280. it currently has fluffy but im seeing cut pile for sale. which is correct for 77? also looking for original 14" tire size? thanks