jlenownnab

Friday morning we are meeting now, I hate when work gets in the way of my Z time. We will start with setting the timing back, adjusting the tps then checking the cold temp sensor.

I assume op means other person which would be me I'm on board with everything you guys are saying and we have gone through a lot of it but I'm in a delicate situation because I don't know a whole lot about this stuff and I don't want to insult him as a mechanic I think he has some pride and I'm just stepping carefully on how much I can tell him to do but for whatever reason he keeps telling me it's not the coolant temp sensor I'm hoping to get him there tomorrow and adjust the TPS and check that coolant temp sensor, I love the fuel injection to keep the car original.

sounds good

I noticed yesterday after getting my gauge working from missing fuse that it is like a fishing bobber. My needle had a lot of back and forth movement when the gas was slushing around. Old skool, gotta love it!

Thankyou for response, should I replace tps to wipe that off the list? I have mentioned the coolant temp sensor to my mechanic but he seems to keep avoiding it. Will set timimg back and go from there.

Wide open and partially open test. I think the timing numbers are 23?? The car is out of Texas, no corrosion anywhere as far as I can see, its super clean. Oil change last April per sticker in window, Its clocked 1,200 miles since then. I put a full tank of gas in the car 2 months ago. The car runs strong warm but when you first start it and try to rev it it cuts out and will even backfire in the manifold. If you keep revving it you can get it to rev. It will run and drive cold but I wouldn't pull out in front of anybody. We have thoroughly looked for vacuum leaks, new plugs, wires, cap and button. We hit quite a few things on daves list but when the test failed we thought we found the problem.

My guy said it was adjustable but didn't bother adjusting it???

Love the color!! I have been looking for that color or I have been looking for a white interior car. Auto wouldn't bother me either with the swap option, nice find.

Not as good of day in Cincy, Cold car still running badly. We have learned that the distributer only goes in one way, we were hoping it was one tooth off. The timing is where it needs to be so we started doing some testing. Here are the numbers per your request. Test 1 in troubleshooting section idle resisted .3 ohms Test 2 full throttle test, open.4 ohms/partial .4 ohms failed, partial should have been zero Test 3 full throttle/closed throttle 26.2 mega ohms Test 4 air flow meter resistance #1 184. Test 5 air flow resistance #2 238.5 Test 6 air flow meter resistance #3 103.9 Test 7 air temp sensor 1.5 k ohms Since test 2 failed, it led us to the throttle position sensor, I guess we will start there. I hope these numbers help someone in the future.

Possible good news here in Cincy. Since the number 2 spark plug was not changing the idle like the others did we focused on the number 2 cylinder. Compression was good 150+. so after checking connections we found the fuel injector was not clipped in all the way. That made the car run much better at operating temp, we checked the distributer and advanced it a little further which also helped. So tonight things are good, tomorrow we will check the timing when the car is cold and hopefully we have a smooth running car when first started. We never checked numbers on ecu because we felt it was an isolated issue to the 2 cyl.

I did a quick search the other night for nearby clubs... nada. I have downloaded book and my brain is swimming after about page 31 or so. So far I definetely have a way better understanding of how the system works and will recognize components I normally would have just looked at and wonwered what does that do. I am meeting my guy this evening and will post update, thanks.

Thanks for ideas/list. Having troubles downloading book, will get done in morning. I will report back but it may be a day or two waiting on my friend/mechanic. Also, not many shops in Cincinnati to work on these type cars. Thanks, Stewart

I changed the plugs and wires because of a test we did. With the car idling we pulled one plug wire at a time to see if a particular cylinder was or was not affecting the idle. Cylinder number 2 didn't seem to affect the idle the way the other 5 did, we pulled the plugs and the plug was in worse condition then the others. The wires were from 1984, when we replaced them we verified the order. In hopes of it being something as simple as a tune up, I wanted to try a few things. I know out sourcing this job is on the horizon, I was just trying some basic maintenance. My plan is to tear this car down after summer. it will include removing, cleaning and treating the gas tank, a new fuel sending unit, poly urethane bushings, all suspension components gone through, brakes etc... The crappy thing is that I paid good money for this car and it was supposed to be in good running condition. I don't have any interest in learning everything about these cars, but I wanted to throw it's problems out there just in case they were common and easily repaired. I'm at a point where I want to do what I am capable of and what I know how to do and enjoy doing.

Can I carry this on to my next issue? With all the great help so far, maybe this super clean original 75 wiil be on the road again soon. I mentioned I may have a vacuum leak. I Sprayed down with brake cleaner and inspected vacuum lines. I could not get a change in idle and all lines are clean and pliable. I went ahead and changed plugs, wires, cap and button. No help?? If I didn't mention what the car is doing, the car starts and idles perfect, when you push the gas pedal to rev the car there is a delay, it sounds like it sucks air and will pop and backfire in the intake? The car appears to run nice at speed?

Is there an upgrade fuse panel like on the 240 or is this not a problematic area usually?

Finally and ending! On our second pass through checking the fuses with a meter or something, I asked my guy if there were any missing, he said just one.... I asked which one? He said the fuel gauge, caliberado, the third one from the top left. That's the one! That fuse works the tach, fuel gauge and the whole alt, vr thing. 13.6 finally. thanks everyone for helping.

I have an amp meter it does work I was not looking at it that day I wasn't planning on to break down

I was left stranded last Sunday with a dead battery, which is 1 month old. When car is running I unhooked negative side of battery terminal and car shuts off. I am thinking car should run off alt.

He has a lot to go off of in the morning, he is really good. thanks again, I will let you know out come. stewart

Just spoke with oreilys..... He said that the alt they have sold me is the only one their computer calls for. He also said that it is a 60 amp externally regulated counter clockwise unit. He said he is 100% sure it's the right alt?????

With a little luck I can get them to order me a external regulated alt, With a little luck. I am getting ready to get my z's dialed in, I will be on here more and more. I will post alt outcome. Thanks again Stewart

Thanks for video and everyones input. I thought i responded earlier and just saw that my response isn't up. I am meeting my mechanic in the morning Saturday. I am printing this post out for him, Although with all the good ideas I should be able to figure it out on my own. We checked fuses and found one blown.. clock/lighter. We did check fusable link for continuity, We did check signal wire while car was running and yes this car starts and runs good when operating off the battery despite the vacuum leak. I was only able to stop by my garage and snap a few pics today, here they are. *IF IM NOT MISTAKEN, ORIELY'S HAS CAUSED ME A LOT OF GRIEF AND YOU GUYS UNNECCESSARY TIME SPENT HELPING* WRONG ALTENATOR???